trunk bonnet switch not workingin my Mondial T

If the switch is sticking then chances are that you burnt the small electric release mechanism up. I don't know if you have a cab or coupe "t" but I would guess cab since the coupe is pretty darn rare. The electric pull motor is located on the left side of the truck if I recall correctly (at least on a coupe). It is easy to find, and you don't have to tear anything up to get to it. However it does tear into your wallet to buy a new one. $1200 I think? I have replaced several over the years - I just buck up & buy one. Easy enuf to perform the service yourself I would bet. Take the switch out & clean & lubricate it too. That way you wont burn up the replacement electronic cable pull.

 

Mike, you remembered correctly and it looks like both (Cab and Coupe) are on the left.

One part fits all too.

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=202044
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Ours quit working also and one of these days I will fix it... but I won't be paying $1200. It is just an automatic trunk release. Why in the world would I pay a grand for one? What am I missing?????
Dazed and Confused Dave

 

Your not missing a thing Dave. Its ridiculous. But I am just as ridiculous about the Mondial, so I replaced mine.

Jal: The release is the same for front "trunk" and rear trunk. The front unit is located right by the latch mechanism (the rear as mentioned early & confirmed by friend Wade). Both are easy to find, with common bolts/screws holding them in place. I think the front unit is located under a plastic trim panel.

Snoop around with a flashlight & a screwdriver (to remove misc covers). With that & Wades photo above you should be well on your way to Mondial maintenance success. This is pretty straightforward.

 

It might be a good idea to add a relay to power the latch release solenoid directly with battery power from the large battery connection at the starter, fusing the power to the relay.

 

I think I once heard that these can be rebuilt. Is that true?
I agree about not spending the $1200 to get it replaced. Consequently, I pull the lever when I need access to my trunk.
Ron

 

If you have an electric motor shop nearby, it might be worth checking to see if they can rewind the solenoid

 

That's pretty ugly and like Michael said, a replacement may be in order.

Eurospares has them listed and priced ($711 with today's exchange rate) on their website.

Ferrari Part No. 152326 Electric bonnet opener
http://www.eurospares.co.uk/partsListing.asp?M=1&Mo=392&A=2&B=21169&S=&ID4=921417

 

I keep my fried solenoid on desk, it's a perfect but expensive paperweight. Made by Mallardi Firenze (Italia). I agree these are exceptionally expensive to replace new, and prefer to stick with the mechanical release cable for additional exercise.

 

I recently had the same problem with Mondial T Coupe.. Thank god it was only the fuse.. This thread scared the S**t out of me.. Welcome to the world of Ferraris..

 

You need to make a braket to fit, but these will work just fine.... and cost $20.00

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tueroeffner-Kofferraum-Entriegelung-Ferrari-308-328-348_W0QQitemZ180404591258QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r?hash=item2a00f39a9a&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

 

Jal,

Was the switch stuck? I have a similar problem, except that my solenoid is still functional and I think it's the switch. Have you repaired/replaced the trunk release bonnet button?

 

Trunk Release,

When I bought my 1989 Modial T Cab. I noticed the trunk release did not work and there was a smell from the trunk. At first I thought the smell was just the carpet or panels giving off an "old smell". While combing over the vehicle I discovered the 25 amp fuse was burnt. When I changed it, the mirrors and door locks worked (yaee). I removed the panels in the trunk to find the same burned out solenoid that a previous post has pictured.

Not about to pay $1200 for a solenoid I searched out a reasonable replacement. I found a 10 amp solenoid with a 20 mm pull, 8 kg force, on eBay ($43 to my door). It was not a perfect match, but had similar dimensions to the original without the factory bracket that the original is spot welded to. 8 kg. is plenty of pull, and the length of the pull can be shortened based on how you install it.

In the first attached picture you can see overall what I did. The solenoid rod is split with a hole in the side of it. So I attached an "eye" bolt to that point with a nut and bolt. Actually, the bolt threaded itself into the solenoid rod, so I cut the excess of and left it. The "eye" bolt allows you to attach the release cable and fine tune the pull of the solenoid. The original pulls about 1/4 inch. So, line up the new solenoid so it pulls 1/4 to its stop. It is better to have the trunk release at the end of the solenoid's pull, rather than having the solenoid trying to pull beyond the limit of the release.

Line up the new solenoid so there is about 1/4 pull available at about the half way point of the threads on the "eye" bolt. This way you have some wiggle room for adjustment. In the second picture you can see the stop ring on the solenoid rod and the "eye" bolt. Once you have this lined up, mark the point where the solenoid frame lines up with the two studs on the car's frame. You can use the original bracket to mark the points where you will drill two holes in the solenoid frame.

In the second and third pictures you can see the one nylock nut that attaches the solenoid to the car's frame. The second one cannot be seen because it is so tight to the car's quarter panel. In fact, to get a wrench on it you will have to cut a wrench off (sacrifice it) to squeeze in. There may only be two attachments, but it is only a trunk release with very little force being applied to it. Two attachments is plenty strong.

In the first and third picture you can also see the solenoid ground wire is attached to where the third attachment point is on the original bracket. You can also see the 10 amp inline fuse with the cap on that I attached. The third picture you can see the exposed fuse. So, in future if the trunk release button gets stuck in the car, the 10 amp fuse will pop before the solenoid fries.

The tail lights are out of the car in the pictures only because when I took the pictures I was detailing the car (swirl remover, glaze, sealant....) and I did want any obstructions as I tried to achieve perfection on an awesome car.

The job took me about two hours to complete. And it felt oh so good when I pressed the trunk release button and heard that trunk (boot) lid pop. It has been working fine since. It cost just about $50 and is every bit as good (the 10 amp fuse makes it even better) than the factory setup.

Hope this helps someone out.
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Great job. The trunk, engine bonnet and front bonnet all use the same solenoid, so your fix should apply to those as well.
Thanks for the explanation and photos.
I was lucky enough to find a couple of solenoids in the UK at a great price on ebay. I needed to replace my trunk solenoid. The other is a "spare" for me.
Can you post a link to the solenoid you found? That might help future searchers.

The usual problem is the poorly made switches that can break, become sticky or the spring return breaks, locking the connection and then burning out the solenoid. I replaced all of my switches for all of the solenoids.

DavidJ

 

First, thanks for the kudos on my solenoid repair.

This is the link to the eBay site where the solenoid is currently available. 8kg Holding Force DC 12V 10A Pull Linear Solenoid Electromagnet | eBay

Also, the merchant's eBay ID that has the solenoid is 22newcentury, just in case someone is reading this and the link has expired.

BTW, DavidJ, do you have pictures or other info, as to what switches you used to replace the original ones? My fuel switch and trunk are a bit sloppy, so I am going to change them all out as well. I am not a big fan of momentary rocker switches. So, I am kicking around some ideas for slicker replacements.

 

David, did you find OEM switches for the solenoid switch replacement or did you use similar but not OEM switches?

 

I didn't take any pix. I got the OEM switches from Ferrparts in CA from a wrecked Mondi they were breaking. I opened up the "new" switches and cleaned/burnished the contacts before swapping them out with the old broken switches.
Those switches are real junk. Either the stops break off or the spring return breaks. When the spring goes the switch can stay closed and the current keeps energizing the solenoid. It can only take the current for a short time and then: poof….
No current limiter or temperature cut out in the circuit/solenoid either. Bad design.
With all of the other short sighted designs in these cars I'm not surprised tho.
Still, I love my car and can't wait for some warm weather to get back out on the road.

BTW I changed the switches for the rear windows too. That helped the speed of the windows. The rear windows do not use a relay system. The contacts in the switches carry the current directly to the window motors. So after a while sparking at the contacts generates carbon and the residence goes up, the voltage goes down and the current goes up. This can lead to all kinds of issues in the circuit.

 

+1 fully agree. I have found similar switches that are not OEM and will buy a couple to see how they look AND function.

 

Thanks for the above posts, this saved me a lot of money.
I found a replacement 8Kg Holding Force DC 12V Pull Linear Solenoid Electromagnet-in Other Electronic Components from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
43.26US$ to the home.
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