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Stahlbus oil drain valve

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Tifoso1, May 10, 2020.

  1. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
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    Anthony C.
    Finally decided on buying a Quickjack. So I am planning on doing some basic maintenance on the car in the future, starting with oil change. From my research, draining the reservoir can become messy so I was looking into the Stahlubus oil drain valve (http://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/oil-drain-valve/index.php), more specifically their extension system (https://www.stahlbus-us.com/oil-drain-valve/accesssories-oil-drain-valve/operation-tool-for-stahlbus-oil-drain-valve-alu-natur.html). They are similar to the Fumoto valve in concept but much lower profile and I think they are better designed. I am considering use the valve for both the oil pan and the reservoir, unless someone has something negative to say about them, or at least for the reservoir to avoid splashing oil on to parking brake cable or electrical connections etc.

    1) Will appreciate any opinion, comment, words of wisdom you have to offer.
    2) Can someone please share with me the thread size of both plugs so I can order the correct parts.

    Thank you.
     
  2. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    Personally I do not trust any type of release valve on oil reservoir! I almost thought about safety wiring the plugs.
     
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  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson F1 World Champ
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    I just use a large paper soft drink cup (maybe ~5" diameter at the top) with the bottom cut off. Push the big top end of the cup up against the bottom of the oil tank and run your extension up thru the open smaller end (which extends below everything you are trying to protect and the cables running by tend to hold the cup up in place) -- when the oil squirts out sideways (and it does ;)), it works well to contain it.
     
  4. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
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    Hi Steve, its amazing how members on FChat can always count on you for stepping in and help out, regardless how stupid and basic the questions are. Thank you.

    If you will, a few f/u questions:
    1) Looks like you are not a fan of the drain valve, one other reason I am looking at it is the potential issues of stripping the threads which is why I was thinking of using the valve. How common is this problem? I am no where close to being a real mechanic but I have and knows how to do basic stuff including oil change. But I am a little intimidated working on the Testarossa.

    2) Found this great step by step thread on FChat on this which I will be following (https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/ferrari-testarossa-oil-change-diy.561173/#post-145596131). It is how I found out about the oil splashing issue with the reservoir tank and the thread stripping. Anyway, what do you recommend when it comes to the torque specifications of the oil filter, oil pan drain plug and the reservoir drain plug? The following statements are from that thread, do you agree with them?

    "These are copper crush washers. We used these automotive self-centered bonded seal/gasket washers that work like copper crush washers, but do not require to be tightened as much. These have been working well for us and reduces the risk of stripping the soft aluminum threads."

    "Next, the new drain plugs and crush washers were installed. Note, the larger head plug goes on the oil reservoir tank (22mm plug). We then tightened both drain plugs using a 3/8" drive torque wrench to prevent stripping the threads. Since the owner's and workshop manual do not specify the amount to torque each plug, we made sure not to tighten more than 25 lbs ● ft. For reference, the Ferrari 360 Modena gets tightened to 36 lbs ● ft and a Porsche 911 (991) to 27 lbs ● ft."

    Thank again for your help.
     
  5. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
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    most important is not to put the oil drain screw in the housing as long as the housing is warm. otherwise you will get problem to remove it again
     
  6. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

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    Yes, I saw your post at the end of that thread. Thank you and I will definitely follow that advise.
     
  7. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson F1 World Champ
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    Thanks for the kind words, Anthony. I actually didn't even look at the Stahlbus drain valve until now ;). I like that it has a second sealing cap (so not just always relying on the ball valve to stay closed), and think it would work just fine. On the downside, needing the special fitting to drain it, there's a high probability that that special fitting won't stay with the car.

    Stripping the stock oil tank drain plug threads is so common that, at least, getting a new drain plug with a longer 16mm threaded portion is a must IMO (if you don't go with the Stahlbus valve) -- Rifledriver (IIRC) mentioned some Mechanics get another longer oil pan drain plug to replace the oil tank drain plug. The bonded seal/gasket washers are a bit of a different fish as the metal portion is just a deflection limiter for the seal. Can completely see how this can provide better sealing at lower torque, but lower torque goes along with less resistance to loosening under vibration so maybe a risk. Since I have no experience using them, I'll have to abstain. Since I retapped my oil tank drain plug thread to M18 using a longer M18 drain plug 20 years ago, I don't really have a reference for how much torque is too much torque for the short M16 stock drain plug, but 25 lb-ft is probably a lot. The oil pan drain plug has a much longer thread engagement so is less fussy. With these crushable, annealed washers, it's more of a "feel" thing (the change in torque vs the change in rotation angle) -- know that that doesn't help you at all ;).

    Not having the special tool for installing a TR oil filter, I just tighten it as much as possible by hand. Very important to lubricate the seal/sealing surface and the threads before installing.
     
  8. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    If worried about losing the plug from under torque, safety wire it!
     
  9. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

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    I am no mechanical engineer but the Stahlbus design looks pretty solid and it would eliminate the two potential known issues with the reservoir plug I think. Thank you for looking at it and giving me your opinion, I think I will give it a try and order at least an extra fitting just in case I do lose one. I figure I can always go back to the traditional plug and washer if it turns out to be a bad idea. You and Rifledriver have always been so helpful to this community, can't thank you both enough that's for certain.

    Thank you all for your help.
     
  10. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson F1 World Champ
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    I didn't mean for you -- I meant for the next owner of your TR, or the one after that, etc.. (These cars have a disturbing tendency to outlive us humans ;))
     
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  11. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
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    :) My OCD is so bad that every car I traded in so far, has a full compliment of keys, owner's manual and whatever is necessary for the next owner. Funny thing is, my two previous daily driver were purchased immediately by someone at the dealership the minute I decided on the new car. So I got to meet the next owner and walk them through all the modifications that was made. It's a sickness and I take pride in being a car nut, for better or for worse. And I was already planning on buying an extra fitting before you mentioned it, that's just my MO and again, my sickness with automobiles.
     

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