Scud Actuator Centering

Does anyone have the information from the WSM on centering the F1 actuator using the service tool? It appears to be different to the standard 430 actuator dimensionally, and the copy of the Scuderia WSM I have helpfully lists that section as 'In Preparation'.

Thanks for any help.

 

Well that’s my hope after buying the tool! The regular WSM quotes something in the ~14.85mm range for the measured thickness but I’m measuring out ~13.83mm with a couple different gauges. So I’m assuming/hoping that there is a different design/spec, but uses the same tool!

 

Thanks! Much appreciated.

 

Yes I’m specifically talking about centering within the actuator body. Using the Hill Engineering tool.

 

Hmm I’m not sure I had heard that before. You’re referring to this tool?

https://www.hillengineering.co.uk/360-430-f1-gearbox

 

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Hmm...that's not good! Thanks for taking the time to look that up though.

 

Well it's a somewhat long story, but I'll try to keep it brief.

Bought the car in September 2019. After first few longer drives I noticed that it would not go into reverse at the end of the drive. After a 5-10min cool down it would go into reverse. Later this progressed to not going into 1st or 2nd and being stuck on the side of the road multiple times. So my first step was to bleed the whole system including the actuator. This made a small difference, but did not get rid of the problem. Then I took it to the dealer and they went through the same bleeding steps and thought it was fixed after a few test drives. Drove the car home and at the first light after coming off the highway the car wouldn't go into 1st coming to a stop at the light. At that point I decided I would remove the whole system and send it to GTE to be rebuilt. Once it was rebuilt the dealer reinstalled the system and for about ~100miles I did not notice any issues. But after that the first problem to show up was that when doing a full throttle 7-8k RPM 2-3 shift it failed to go into gear and dropped into a weird state that eventually resolved itself by going into 4th or 5th after I had let off the throttle and pulled the paddles a few time. At this point I noticed the following:

1-2 Shifts: OK, no problems
2-3 Shifts: Noticeably slow, and without a lift often failed to engage
3-4 Shifts: OK, no problems
4-5 Shifts: Noticeably slow, and without a lift often failed to engage
5-6 Shifts: Ok, no problems

My first step after this was to drain the gearbox oil and check for any signs of serious gear and/or synchro failure. The oil looked ok and there was nothing more than the usual fine metal particles on the drain plug. The filter did have a good amount of RTV, probably from the actuator being removed and installed multiple times. At this point my next steps are to:

Bleed ediff - Complete
Bleed F1 system - Complete
Check actuator alignment(currently where I am stuck)

I didn't want to put everything together to check if the additional bleed had helped until I was able to check the alignment.

If the additional bleeding and alignment don't address the issue I have some additional theories, but need to collect some data. I plan on taking a second hand F1 harness and splicing into it to log the the position and pressure sensors directly at 1kHz to try to understand exactly what is happening. My working assumption is that EV3 and EV4 actuators are having some kind of flow rate issue as it appears to be having a hard time moving across the gate fast enough.