Good night! I hope i can sleep when i stopped with laughing about the post of Bell. :)
Ready to start now…I will do the test with the 3 connectors and report back….I hope at the very end we laugh together...
Report: 1- connected the first connector (buttons): measures 1 2- connected the second connector: (lights): measures 0,004 Should I connect the third one?
If it is no problem for you it is better to disconnect the second connector (leave the first one connected) and connect the third and then measure. After this connect the second connector (all three are now connected) and measure again.
Done: disconnected the second one and connected the third one, measure: 0,011 Connected the second one leaving the third one connected: 0,010 First one is always connected
This is fine! Next step is to again connect the black check panel connector and measure. The earlier problem was the unstable measurement when moving the cables. Check if this is still an issue (record the lowest and highest measured value). Maybe some contact spray will help to stabilize the connection.
That's good! Now the only disconnected connector is the connector to the rear lights. Leave this connector disconnected because the problem is there. Now reconnect the pink and pink/yellow wire to connector J and check if fuse 17 blows (I don't expect it will). Please note there are no lights on the back of the car yet.
Before doing this do not forget there is one connector from the electronic unit disconnected….remember?
That is unexpected! The black check panel connector could be the problem (it's an electronic input), disconnect this one and try. Next try is the second (lights) connector. Hope you have enough fuses...
Voila!! Have disconnected the black connector from the check panel and the electronic unit is fully connected and ……DASH PANEL is ON!!! AND "P" Light is off and the light indicator is ON!! and fuse does not blow!!!
So now the problem is..in the black connector or in one of the two from the electronic unit, correct? Which one should I connect to check?
YEAH! So the black one is the only disconnected connector now. And the lights on the back of the car are working? The check panel is now not fully operational. We can try to bring it further, only the lights indicator will be disabled then.
Please put back the two connectors of the electronic unit. The only disconnected connector should be the black connector.
Ok, done. Electronic unit fully connected Rear lights work (didn't check the stop lights), plate lights work, dash lights work. I only need to connect the side lights and fog lights (rear and front) It seems that the problem is the black connector from the check panel? Next pleasE?
Yes, it is the black connector. It connects to the input circuits of the check panel. They are transistorized i suppose. I guess one of those inputs is blown. You have three options: 1. Find the blown input and disconnect the wire like we did temporary with connector J. Pro: this will cost you only time. Con: one of the control panel lights will not work and the service light will be on. I can help you with this. 2. Repair the unit, it contains only simple 80's electronics. Every grey haired or bald electronic engineer can repair it for a low price. Pro: Everything will work as designed, cheap repair. Con: you have to find the grey haired or bald electronic engineer. 3. Buy a replacement unit. I think Stekkefun is parting out a Mondial. Pro: quick and easy. Con: more expensive and you need to be sure this unit is of the same type and isn't faulty as well.
Lets do the 1 st point and then the second point. But first we need to take it out. How do we do this? FYI, I have connected front fog lights (they work), rear fog lights (they work), side lights (they work), stop lights work!
