News

Mondial T electrical

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by Jon22, Oct 8, 2004.

  1. Jon22

    Jon22 Karting

    Sep 4, 2004
    110
    Uk
    Full Name:
    Jon
    Hi Just brought a mondial T , needs a bit of work, but then that is why i brought it. The front end had been dismantled after minor shunt, and i have a box of bits to reasemble.
    I would like to make sure it runs before i spend too much, and with that in mind i have connected a battery, reasembled the fuse / relay holder, and connected all the wires except the lighting harness. Problem is the car is dead! I have turned the isolator on, and if i trace the power at the front end I have no power to the fuse box, only power on a pink cable to 1 of 4 relays that mount on a seperate block. ANy ideas? is there and impact switch on these? is there another fuse box?and where can i get hold of a wiring diagram ?
    Thanks
     
  2. hank sound

    hank sound F1 Veteran

    Jan 31, 2004
    5,786
    Burbank, CA
    Full Name:
    Hank Garfield
    Hi Jon:
    In all honesty, I can't offer any tech advice as regards your electrical gremlins. All I can relate to you is the following; I too have just purchased a Mondial t. As a Mondial fan, I wish you "speedy recovery" with your baby's problems.
    Cheers, Hank
     
  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    18,733
    Texas
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
  4. Jon22

    Jon22 Karting

    Sep 4, 2004
    110
    Uk
    Full Name:
    Jon
    Thanks for the comments, i am still chasing it, I have no power to the ignition not even the clock is working yet there is power at the engine block ( the panel behind the rear seats).

    ALso I know i have to sort the alarm out to start it, are the alarms standard o the car or an add on extra afterwards?

    If they are standard is there a way of overriding them?

    Thanks
    Jon
     
  5. Modificata

    Modificata F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Apr 27, 2003
    2,652
    Hampton, England
    Full Name:
    Andy Rasool
    JOn

    COngrats on the new purchase. I've got a mondial t too and you will love it once its up and running.

    Firstly not sure if this will help you but there is a battery terminal right in the centre of engine bay under the rear window. Its easier jump starting there than under the headlight. Connect the positive to the terminal and the negative to any part of the body or chassis.

    Number two im not 100% sure on this but I think you can jump start the car directly from the starter motor. But you may want to double check before you try.

    I'd be curious to know how much you paid for the car. If you are not willing to say I can understand, but if you prefer to PM me the details feel free.

    Hope that helps.
     
  6. Jayo5

    Jayo5 Karting

    Jul 28, 2004
    90
    Las Vegas
    Full Name:
    P C Johnson
    Jon, I can't profess to be an expert. (I spent 4 years with a 81 Fiat Spider 2000 two decades ago). I purchased a 90 t cab in June and have just begun to uncover some of her electronic ills. There is something unusually difficult to the Mondial ignition. I would be suspect of a recipe for running the engine with a partially completed fuse box panel though.

    I am currently trying to figure out why my Mondial t intermittently fails to crank. I'm just past replacing the starter, battery and ground cables and still I'm plagued by cranking failures. My mechanic is planning to verify adequate voltage at the starter (possibly uncovering positive lead corrosion). Oh yes, the car started well when I picked it up but was back to its usual trick by the third start (4 hours).

    My point in mentioning all this is I'm fully prepared to discover that the positive lead is normal which is going to force me to trouble shoot a possible interruption from a computer module. The owners manual mentions that three failed attempts at ignition will send an inhibitory signal somewhere, presumably to keep you from driving the car when a severe engine condition exist. Since my car also intermittently displays a "Check Eng 1-4" warning light when I drive in traffic (but always goes out when I run the car at speed and above 4000 rpm) I suspect my problem with starting may be from that electronic inhibitory fail-safe mechanism.

    I have keen respect for failed computer modules. I sold my Fiat Spider in 1987 in fit of rage after spending $2,700 on an air flow meter and then another $3,600 on fuel injector computer module only to have the car still not start the next day. The explaination I got then was the failure of the second component was likely triggered by replacing the first. Whether that was true or not I'll never know. What I took away from the unfortunate situation then was computer modules are fragile and expensive. Trying to run your car with partial fuse box power may cause voltage irregularities and electronic damage galore. Again, I'm no expert but I fear electrical gremlins.

    Good luck. I hope we both get our Mondials running soon.
     
  7. MondialTCab

    MondialTCab Formula 3

    Sep 5, 2001
    1,020
    Pacific Northwest
    Full Name:
    John Michael Gross
    I can copy that portion of the manual if you don't have it...
     
  8. Jon22

    Jon22 Karting

    Sep 4, 2004
    110
    Uk
    Full Name:
    Jon
    I got power to the ignition system today, a minor wire i thought was for the light stack proved to be the main power to the fuse box!, anyway i now have power and things are starting to work, and a loose connection under the dash means it can crank,Now if only i can work out how to overcome the b@~~@~y alarm i can make it run! Or for that matter i would like to find the larm box, anyone know where these are? and any ideas on bypassing or checking them?
     
  9. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Two Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    26,840
    Austin TX
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    The North American version did not come with an alarm or immobilizer and I don't believe yours did either. So it is probable it is an aftermarket and in my experience they are usually attached right at the ignition switch (the installers are usually lazy). You should look at the back of the switch and look for signs of any wires being intercepted. It is usually just a matter of cutting out the alarm system wiring and reconnecting as original.
     

Share This Page