2007 Coupe F1 5,272 miles Serial # 151797 Assy # 69244 Rosso Corsa/Tan Daytona Power Seats Driver & Passenger Carbonio Carbon Fiber Scuderia Shift Paddles Carbonio F430 Front License Plate Mount Yellow Tach Capristo Exhaust Brackets Scud Ing Rear LED Light Kit Scud Ing CHMSL with Flasher ECU Scud Ing Smart Turn Signal ECU Scud Ing DRL Light Kit Scud Ing Smart DRL Controller Scud Ing Advanced eMT F1 Relay Scud Ing Smart E-Diff Solenoid Valve Tester ECU SEST Xpel Ultimate PPF (entire car) Clear Plex Windshield Film All incandescent bulbs replaced with LEDs Pioneer NEX3500 Infotainment System w/Apple Car Play Rear Camera KD40 Radar Detector Laser Detector/Disruptor Scud Ing CAN BUS Ecliptech Shift P2+ Display Scud Ing Clear Side Lights Fabspeed Headers with Fabspeed heat blankets Updated F1 Hydraulic Block Stainless Steel Brake Lines w/Motul brake fluid New F1 accumulator F1 filled with Liqui Moly Hydraulic fluid Ricambi 430 Dead Pedal Odyssey Batteries 34R-PC1500T CTEK (56-959) MUS 4.3 TEST&CHARGE 12 Volt Fully Automatic Charger and Tester CTEK (56-382) Comfort Indicator Eyelet Audew Upgraded Car Jump Starter, Jump Box 2000A Peak 20000mAh Battery Charger
The squarish dark colored block that F1 bleed nipple number 1 comes out of. It is prone to stress cracks that cause F1 pressure leaks. It was replaced starting with assy numbers above 72730. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ricambi sells the upgraded Hill Engineering part which can be found at https://www.ricambiamerica.com/196918-block.html If you're in the UK the same part can be found at https://www.hillengineering.co.uk/-by-part-no-/196918 This upgrade was recommended by Stef at SIS Scud Ing to further strengthen the F1 system. Ray
Perhaps a NOOB-question, but could any of you tell me exactly what the Scud Ing parts exactly do? Is it a different kind of monitoring? I did a test drive in a F430 a year ago that had a Scud Ing F1 Relay, some kind of block with flashing lights that was beeping - or maybe it wasn't, I forgot. The F430 I purchased, somewhere else, had a faulty PIS (?) sensor in the F1 transmission literally 3 days after picking up the car haha. A friend of mine, also with a F430, told me that he really wants some Scud Ing upgrades regarding the F1 transmission, he says 'it makes him sleep better'. However, in life, could you tell me how this practically works? I'm quite a technical guy in the medical field, but I don't really understand the website's explanations regarding what it does.. Help would be appreciated!
Go to https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/17-my-ferrari-solutions He offers products that increase visibility, provide warnings of problems, and add convenience features to the cars. His products are brilliant. Well engineered and well manufactured, and they customize your car the way you want it. The only two I do not yet have are the engine bay lighting kit, and the interior lighting kit. And they are on my to do list. All of his products consume far less power than the OEM equipment. Ray
Great thread! Didn't even know about the brake lines and F1 block, going to look into or next service. Here's my list: 2005 F1 Coupe Grigio Titanio, CCB, purchased spring 2018 MPS4S Tyres AGM Deep Cycle Battery Changed Tach from Red to Yellow Bespoke Leathering leather dye (fixed seat wear) Scud Inc F1 Relay Paint Correction, PFF and Ceramic whole car Forza Exhaust Remote All incandescent bulbs replaced with LEDs Capristo Exhaust Brackets Following were replaced during service/during purchase so far Spark Plugs E-Diff Solonoids Accumulator F1 Pump F1 Actuator Engine Mounts RR Wheel bearing Front Upper & Lower Ball Joints (Hill Engineering) Rear Lower Ball Joints (Hill Engineering)
No, it's one of two points for bleeding/flushing the F1 fluid. There is a third bleed nipple for the E-diff. The difference in your manual clutch version is simply the lack of clutch/gear actuators. The E-diff solenoid carries fluid from the F1 system for activating the E-diff clutches. Ray
My F430, assembly number 69244, has the F1 hydraulic part number 196918. Later Ferraris after assembly numbers after 72730 (Y 08) have part number 235706. Ricambi America sells both parts by Hill Engineering redesigned and manufactured to resist stress cracks which allow air intrusion into the F1 system. Here is a photo of my F1 block. Note that it does NOT have a heat shield despite it's close proximity to the exhaust pipe. In this case they are Fabspeed headers with blankets. View NGSC Dan's video on flushing the F1 fluid and stop it at the 05:28 mark and see him remove the heat shield and if you keep viewing you will notice he has block number 235706.
Obviously replacing this should be followed by bleeding the F1 system since air will enter the system when the fittings are loosened. I took the opportunity of replacing the stock part with the Hill Engineering part, and flushing all the ATF fluid out of the system and replacing it with Liqui Moly hydraulic fluid. By starting the car while on the Quick Jacks and selecting gears (it will only let you do 1st and Reverse) and then using the X-431 Torque to cause the car to shift into all the gears, and by allowing the car to accelerate to cause the E-diff fluid to circulate there is a better chance of purging ALL the old ATF fluid and circulating the hydraulic fluid. The same is true of the F1 actuator. Remember to start bleeding at bleed valve (union) number 1 on the chassis near the F1 reservoir. While the diffuser and under tray were off I decide to replace the Gearbox oil and filter. Ricambi sells the complete kit with all necessary crush washers and the O-ring for the filter. Here is a photo of the old filter. I believe the white stuff trapped in the filter is sealing compound from the gearbox rear cover. Apparently the excess gets squeezed into the internals when the cover is torqued.
In order to refill the system I used a Motive Power Filler. With the car LEVEL on the Quick Jacks almost all of the old oil drains. Slightly raising the front end (by using multiple blocks in the Quick Jacks) you can ensure the oil is directed to the drain plug. Raising only the rear causes the drain plug to be higher than the gearbox sump. You can put 3.5L of 75W-90 into the filler unit, attach your shop air (or pump the handle) and open the valve and you don't need any Rube Goldberg funnel extensions to get the new oil in. Ray
Using F1 bleed valves ONE and TWO (#1 in this case, although you should start with #2 if you're not changing to the upgraded hydraulic block) I bled the system refilling it with Liqui Moly Hydraulic Fluid to flush out the ATF that is a factory fill. To be safe I ran three full liters through the system, shifting gears using the X-431 Torque to select all the gears. This helps ensure that the F1 actuator receives new fluid, and accelerating and shifting gears helps force it into the E-DIff. To be safe I bled the E-Diff using Stef's SEST tool in conjunction with the Advanced Smart eMT F1 Relay in maintenance mode. Quite a bit of work, but since none of this was performed by the previous owner it was long overdue. It's worth the piece of mind. Ray
I will be posting today on replacing brake pads, installing stainless steel brake lines to prevent bulging, and replacing the factory fill brake fluid with Motul. I will include photos and list of tools. I neglected to mention that there is a valve designed to relieve pressure in the F1 system for the purpose of replacing components. I'll post a photo of it showing it's location. You attach a tube and catch bottle to it just as if you were bleeding. Fluid does escape until the pressure reaches zero. At that point it is safe to remove lines. Be careful since the line pressure approaches 800 psi when fully pressurized. Ray
I'm beginning to think that the change from part #196918 to part #235706 and the addition of the heat shielding was in response to high heat causing the F1 fluid to boil, creating air bubbles which are compressible, unlike the liquid hydraulic fluid. This is similar to brake fade which occurs when the fluid boils producing air which is not compressible. I'm thinking of devising a heat shield for the older style hydraulic block. I would use the same heat shielding Ferrari uses unless I can do some research and come up with better shielding. The trick will be in properly securing the heat shielding. It's now obvious to me that the change to part #235706 was made to facilitate the addition of the heat shielding. If you notice in Super Car Guy's video it folds over the lines and is secured with two metal snaps. That will not work with the older hydraulic block. The part number for the heat shield is 241691 and apparently no one stocks it, and several vendors have advised Ferrari no longer sells it. I tried Exotic Auto Recycling, but no F430 with that part has been totaled. Does anyone know of a suitable type of heat shielding? I can install the snaps, that's fairly simple with the correct tool and snaps. Any pointers appreciated. Ray
Here are photos of hydraulic block 196918 (left in all photos) and hydraulic block 235706. MANY thanks to Daniel at Ricambi America for assistance with this issue.
When flushing the F1 system of ATF and refilling with Liqui Moly hydraulic fluid the process is aided by the fact that ATF is RED while the Liqui Moly is GREEN. When the output steam changes color you know you have expelled all the old fluid. Ray
