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Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Zeff, May 25, 2020.
The belts looked like they were brand new. Major was done 5 years ago. With 1k miles.
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Some cheap hose clamps were used on the last major. Also he will be doing the diff upgrade using Newman’s. I will also be adding a New exhaust.
Just another pic
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Awesome! Belts look like you just put them on!
What did you expect. Oddly, why do people think belts and hoses are go bad in 1k miles?!?
If a car is not driven and there’s little heat or stress on rubber and plastics the engine will look like this one (like a fresh major).
but when the belts are old and never or nearly never running then it will take not long time when they will run after for example 10 years that they will get destroyed soon
Don’t mean to take the thread down the periodIc belt debate, so I’ll say my piece and shut-up/let it go.
To say basically an unused engine needs a mini overhaul (Belts, seals, gaskets, hosed, Tabs, etc) doesn't make much sense. It is back to the periodic belt argument of what’s the expiration date on NOS belts?...I have had extremist tell me NOS rubber items were garbage after 3-4years (which is nonsense).
As in past debates arguably it is always about tensioners, which need to wear out, that causes problems and not 1-3k mi barely used belts on whats typically a cruiser car - such belts spontaneously breaking is highly improbable.
I aspouse condition based maintenance that is based on age, driving Style/miles (driving avg miles), and environmental (running in hot/cold Temps) factors assuming the engine bay gets hot for a prolonged period and all of these are what drives the manufacturer to prescribe a Conservative service interval.
Although it’s a good precaution after 10+plus years to perform a service on such an expensive car, to perform such a costly breakdown on a 5yo/1k engine is a preference, and not a requirement if that’s what anyone might believe.
Comparative Example - My Corvette belts are still the original from 2011 on a 9kmi ZR1; they aren’t “magic belts“ that are made better or last longer than the belts in my 512TR and they are just fine (no stress cracks) and I have no plans to replace them in the next year as that car will probably not see 1kmi this year.
I agree with everything you said here. The main reason I wanted to go ahead with the major was because I wanted the diff upgrade. After Shamiles car had a problem I didn’t want to take any risk. My mechanic said, dont do the major right now. With my light use of the car, he recommends doing the major every 7 or 8 years.
Diff problem keeps you up at night!
Almost, lol. I called Brian Or Rifledriver and had a long discussion about this. If it occurs and does major damage will cost a small fortune. He said do it ASAP. Plus, the parts are getting difficult to resource. I trust his input so I went for it early. Funny thing is, my mechanic said some of the valves were loose. So I guess the stealer didn’t check the valves when they did the last major. At least that’s what we both concluded.
what you understand under this? too much valve play? under loose I understand somethinging other - so for example play in the valve guides
I did three different times valve settings, none of valves were out of tolerance!
I found 6 of exhaust valves loose and one intake. Others check okay.
Intake valves set .025 /.030 mm
Exhaust vl. Spec. .030/.035mm
Reply from mechanic yesterday.
Yes too much play.
I have a 512 TR with 110 k on it
replaced the belts after 40k
use it or lose it
they barely move until around 60k
then the exhaust valve eat into the heads
Yeah, the mechanic thought it was odd too.
The major is now complete. He did run into trouble with the Ferrari dealership using too much silicone on the cam heads. But everything is ok now. I decided to wait on the Kevlar clutch as my clutch was brand new and he talked me out of it. But new hoses, exhaust, and diff upgrade completed. 16k plus the cost of the diff part 3500 plus the exhaust. Total 24k. Who says you can’t do a major for 5k with all the extras you may need or want? Fools I tell you, just Fools!! Lol
get the silicone hose kit and replace the S upper hose to the radiator pipes along with the other lower hose
save the old hose and always carry it with you
it will be the one to burst since its on top and catches all the heat and you actually replace it on the road if it goes
don't ask me how I know
also replace the hoses under the intake manifolds they catch hell
use marine hose for that if you can
check your front main seal as well
Thanks Clyde for the info. He also replaced the fuel cross over hoses. Take a look at what the dealer installed on the last major for fuel hoses.
View attachment 2096759
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The dealer charged 25k last major. Garbage service quality. I had high expectations of them initially. Never again! I really enjoyed the process of getting the major done. I now have a good foundation with the car. I know that everything is done correctly and is current. It’s just ready to drive and enjoy. I don’t think you have been properly initiated into the tr world until you Have at least one major under your belt.
Now for sure u better keep her 10+ years!
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Thanks Nat! That was always my intention.