F355 F1 Gearbox

When at a stop I pull both paddles which selects neutral. While foot is on the brake.

 

Drive it like you would a manual. I would pull both paddles and slip into neutral as I came to a stop.

 

Yup

 

I think the most important part for saving clutch life that some people I've seen not do is the 1st gear roll out...feather the throttle like you would a regular manual and once it's engaged you can giver the beans and basically shift without lifting. If you just start accelerating aggressively you're burning an unnecessary amount of clutch.

If you want to gun it out the gate then learn the launch procedure...I believe it's called "Race Start" in the manual. It basically dumps the clutch for you.

 

Backing uphill is very bad unless you use the stabbing The fuel pedal method.
Even backing up in general is harder on it..

 

A problem has come up with the F1 transmission. Starting the engine the failed light in the left corner of the display comes on and stays on. The can is in neutral and will not shift gears. Checking all the identified areas that may affect this showed a lower fluid in the reservoir. Filling it to the max level did not help, but pushing the "low friction" button on the console causes the light to go out and you can change gears. Also the .hydraulic control unit light comes on at the dash. This light sometimes turns off. According to the shop manual the hydraulics interfaces to the transmission control unit. The question is how to diagnosis this problem. i have not seen this discussed previously.

 

So disabling traction control allows you to shift?

That's an odd one...perhaps speed sensor related?

 

Disabling traction control does not always turn out the F1 light. Still tryng to diagnose the problem. The F1 was working fine for several months and then the F1 light came on. Now turning the battery off and try again.

 

Can you explained what happened
Were you driving
Can you hear it shift
Does the pump run when you turn ignition on
More info would help when it first happened.

be careful not too overfill filling to the max line will sometimes cause this but that will not prevent it from working it will just spill out cap

 

Found the answer to my problem. The hoses to the reservoir starting leaking very slowly at first then dripping later on. When checking them, the clamps felt tight and no visible leaks. Checking the hoses a week later there were drips on the ground. Tightening the clamps further stops the leaks.

 

When you said lower fluid I did not realize it was so empty that it would not shift
Or
I don’t understand which hoses to the reservoir you mean
I think you mean that allows oil to get to the pump but not sure

 

The hoses are shown here:
Make sure the clamps are very tight to prevent leakage and keep the oil pressure up.
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