This will be the Official F355 only Cross Reference & Interchangeable Parts Source Thread. Thanks to 285ferrari one of are sponsors for bringing up the Idea and starting the first thread asking for a sticky thread for us f355 guys. I don't want to leave anybody out so here are list of guys who also want the thread. saw1998 mpodgor gothspeed ferraridriver nodoubt Last but not least Rob Lay who has given us the go ahead to make the thread sticky. So go ahead and fill free to post up the information and Rob will turn it sticky once we get going.
Hi Craig, It's about time. Let me share some of my cross referenced finds over the years. Some items are specific to the 5.2 Motronic, in particular the Bosch engine manangement parts and O2 sensors. Ferrari 355 – Interchangeable Parts Info 5.2 Motronic 1. Mass airflow meters – Same as 540,740,840 BMW's E31, E32, E34 chassis Bosch part # 0 280 217 800 2. Idle speed motor/regulator - Bosch part # 0 280 140 543 3. Throttle position potentiometer - Bosch part # 0 280 122 004 4. Coolant temperature sender for Motronic 5.2 – Bosch part # 0 280 130 026 (this is the one located by the oil filter housing) 5. O2 sensor Pre cat – Bosch part #13819 $103 from www.rockauto.com Bosch “universal” replacement kit (available at most any autoparts store # 15730 $75 locally, about $42 from www.rockauto.com (will require cutting off the original O2 sensor’s plug, and splicing onto the new one. Kit will include a splicing block, but it might be better to solder the connections and use heat shrink tubing for a more profession looking installation. 6. O2 sensor Post cat – Bosch part # 13820 $103 from www.rockauto.com Bosch “universal” replacement kit #15738 $110 locally, around $73 from www.rockauto.com 7. Stabilus factory OEM gas struts for engine lid and front trunk lid Part #SG437007 - $26 – www.rockauto.com Stabilus gas struts from Ford Focus – Slightly more pressure, they do not appear to last much longer than the oem gas struts. Part #SG404018 -$10 – www.rockauto.com 8. Silver wheel paint – GM 95 8867 or NG GM 508 9. Fuel pressure regulator - Bosch #0 280 160 564 10. The factory correct, oem fan is the SPAL 30102113. This fan has the following characteristics, 2467 cfm output, 27.5 amp current draw, and uses an unsealed motor (shorter life). It comes with the correct weatherproof electric plug already installed, and sells for $220 each from the Fan Man: http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/size-pull-part-2113-p-216.html (note he claims 3000 cfm and 22.5 amp, but the SPAL tech support says that is incorrect, the latest spec sheets he has say it is 2467 cfm and 27.5 amps). The SPAL USA tech support recommend the use of their sealed bearing fan motor, 30102050 with 2028 cfm and 21.5 amp. Many Fchat members are using them, with no overheating issues. With lower amperage, they will not damage your fuse box like the oem fans can. The Fan Man will special order them for around $130 each. Similar cooling to oem, just less amperage and longer fan life. 11. www.kingsborne.com manufactures an aftermarket (oem looking) spark plug wire set in 7mm wires for around $475, with the exact same oem style Beru connectors on each end. The only visible difference is the wires do not have cylinder markings along the entire length of the wire like oem. They place a cylinder marking at the end near the coil plug, using heat shrink tape. They also offer the wire set in optional red, along with oem black.
Can someone confirm the correct spark plugs? I found posts stating the following: 2.7 Motronic NGK PMR7A (btw I noticed Kingsborne is selling a set of 8 each of the NGK PMR7A for only $99 plus shipping) 5.2 Motronic NGK PMR8B
Older F355's need to have their power steering reservoir updated. BMW part number 32-41-1-097-164 is made by ZF, and is virtually identical to the Ferrari part. I installed one about a year and 2000 miles ago. Works great. I put together a tutorial on the installation a while back, which can be found here: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=292079
door mirror switch Part Number - 4A0959565D 01C 4A0 959 565 D 01C ,audi 100, 1988-94 MODEL YEARS,audi 200, 1988-91 MODEL YEARS audi A6, 1995-97 MODEL YEARS (4A), audi A8 D2 1994-99 MODEL YEARS (4D) audi 80 1987-96 MODEL YEARS, CABRIOLET 1992-2000 MODEL YEARS COUPE 1989-96 MODEL YEARS, RS2 1994-1996 MODEL YEARS, S6 PLUS QUATTRO 1997 MODEL YEAR,SEAT:TOLEDO 1992-99 MODEL YEARS CORDOBA 1993-96 MODEL YEARS , IBIZA 1993-96 MODEL YEARS Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ferrari Part # 162406 Idle Control Valve same as Bosch Part # 0280140543 for less than 1/2 the price Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dave: I checked my list and it is the same as yours'. In addition: Porsche 968 brake pads will fit F355 Part number for F355 CV joint is 93033203400 at www.autohausaz.com and the boots from a '78-'83 Porsche 930 fit the F355 perfectly.
This is why I love F-Chat! If your heat is stuck on.... you may need to change heater control valve. two-part heater-control-valve is Bosch part #0 390 721 006, which is the Saab 9000 P/N 9625435 at $139.00 http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=134274
Found this thread as i need one myself... hopefully someone can chime in on a substitute and I will be the first to benefit from this thread
This is a wonderful thread! I used the Pcar cv boot on my F355 ($12 with clamps and grease) and it's working as it should, no issues. Rob
I replaced my leaking coolant recirc pump that sits in the front compartment with this Part #: 3D0965561D from this website: www.parts4vws.com Note that it is not an exact replacement. The inlet & outlet ports have a slightly larger outside diameter. The hoses will fit over them. And the electrical connector is different. Just spice in the original (cut if out). Works great!!!! The O-ring failed causing a coolant leak. The first sign was the smell in the cockpit. And the luggage compartment floor wet. Here is another link for that water pump: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Bosch/Auxiliary_Water_Pump/W0133-1612030.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain
Thanks Scott! I did make and error on the idle control motor, which Eitan has corrected. I emailed to see if my post can be edited for posterity, so as not to confuse future users.
The 355 alternator is made by Nippondenso, here is a list for the electrical components and procedure for replacement. It does NOT list the bearings or brushes...but fortunately, those are not usually the failure point in these. I recommend reading the entire thread, as there are some updates along the way and revisions in part recommendations. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124504&highlight=355+alternator+parts Okay, saved you some time, here are the parts. The parts needed are: The parts to buy are: A regulator, brand name Regitar, part number VRH2005-4A A rectifier (optional) Regitar RN-10 (the original part recommended was the RN-02, but required modification, the RN-10 is a direct fit with no mod required) If you do the job with the alternator in place, and the car on a lift, you will need a right angle #1 Phillips screwdriver, and assortment of regular screwdrivers, and a 1/4" drive metric socket set. It is not a difficult job. The "watch outs" are the small Phillips screws that need to be removed from one of the internal parts, the screws are on the outside edge and require that right angle Phillips screwdriver. Also, the dust cover for the brushes is made from silicone, and make be stuck to the back of the metal alternator cover when you remove it. I thought it was missing, until I looked at the back of the cover and saw it "glued" to it from the heat. The regulator is what usually fails. The Regitar brand parts appear to be more robust than the oem Nippondenso parts, which apparently are made by Transpo.
Confirmmation, it seems the MAF and the FPR's you've listed f355spider work in my car (1997 F355). Though, they have not for sure fixed my too rich issue, they do work and the car runs at least the same if not better than before. Thanks again for the info. Just a side note, the MAF sensor part of the sensor looked different than the one I replaced. My old one had a solid plastic looking piece over the entire element, whereas the new one looked to be an exposed resistor, but again, it works and works at least as good if not better, not sure what's better the new FPRs or the new MAF.
Engine bay shocks for holding up the hood Pep Boys sachs #SG404018 (Same manufacturer) [email protected].
Just so happens I need a pair! Tired of the lid hitting the back of my head when I'm poking around in there.
Great thread. Is 9. Fuel pressure regulator - Bosch #0 280 160 564 The same as the Roll Over Valve or is this a Fuel Pressure Regulator system ? I've been advised to replace my "Roll Over Valve" using a Bosch part due to EXCESSIVE vacuum upon removing my fuel cap (seriously, it takes 15+ minutes to get this cap off, most of the time, and that's with almost 1/2 tank full... Does anyone know of the part # in question ? I want to avoid the following happening: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=241642
Same manufacturer (Stabilus) but NOT the same as oem. They are slightly stronger, and work great for the front trunk. Several of us have used them successfully on the engine lid too, BUT Dave Helms has recently posted that the stronger SG404018 can cause the welds to give way, where the hinges attach to the lid! Beware. Might be safer to use the SG404018 only on the front trunk, and use only the oem SG437007 on the rear engine lid.
Just wanted to post that today after getting the wrong sensors (NTK 25547) for my 5.2 355, I installed the recommended Bosch 15730 and 15738 sensors (universal) they work like a charm!
Glad to hear, I have used one of the Bosch universals for the pre-cat and it continues to work fine. But, I would recommend using the "plug and play" versions for most people, and save yourself the work of soldering and splicing (I did not like the ugly splicing block Bosch provides with the universal O2 sensors). If you shop carefully, it is not much more costly...check Amazon and Ebay. I bought some pre-cat Bosch $13819 off Amazon for less than $30 each earlier this year. Saving them for spares.
I will keep an eye out for them and yes, the splicing block is pretty hokey looking although there is no doubt it is probably the best solution for those without proper tools/knowledge. I used some high quality seamless uninsulated crimps and heatshrink (same way I like to do most connections) and I will probably upgrade to the 13819/20 once I get a chance for no reason other than it bugs me...
Yeah, I soldered, then used heat shrink tubing over each individual wire, then one larger peice of heat shrink tubing over the entire bundle to keep it looking oem. A lot extra time and effort....
