F12 Water trapped in back hatch

I believe it is. This is likely on every F12. The hatch is a sealed inner and outer aluminum construction. When water enters as shown above it becomes trapped inside. There are a series of slots at the hatch bottom presumably to allow normal inner condensation to evaporate. It is almost at the lowest point when closed. If there was enough water inside, it might just exit those slots as you observed. If you open and close the lid you might be able to hear a small amount of water traveling up and down inside (must be very quiet to hear it). Mine only had a slight amount inside that I could hear and I ran hot air through the lid to evaporate.

The fix is simple as e- details and I left a few questions above for him about removing the upper trim piece before I complete it.

 

My F12 is still under warranty so I will let my dealer know about this problem and the proposed solution and see what they say.


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Just took delivery of my new F12 a month ago. Opened the hatch yesterday and heard liquid draining as the hatch opened. At first I thought I was hearing things. Then as I closed it, same thing. Repeated the procedure and same result. Found his thread and it seems I am experiencing the same problem noted above. We have had several days of rain around here and I got caught in a couple of down pours. Was wondering if Ferrari has acknowledged the problem, and if they are offering a fix. Hope their idea of a fix is not to drive it in the rain. Have not contacted my dealer yet since this happened late last night. This is frustrating with a brand new, very expensive, car.

 

I had the same issue one month after factory collection. My dealer confirmed it was a known issue and sorted it out under warranty without issue.


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Thanks for the information. Can you share the name of the dealer that fixed the defect. I contacted my dealer here in Colorado, and they are unfamiliar with the problem and the fix. I would like to have the service department here contact your service department so they can discuss the fix.

 

Graypaul Ferrari, Nottingham. UK.

 

Thanks.

 

Im not sure if its officially acknowledged. I had my mechanic perform the corrective procedure as outlined earlier in the thread by our helpful members and so far I've had no water issues. Sorry it happened to you. I suggest let it dry out/ have your dealer/ mechanic help it along, and then plug the holes.

 

Does this problem persist in the TDF?

I hope it will be fixed in the 812!

Seems trivial to fix and pretty sloppy and careless to ignore and sweep under the rug!

 

While sealing the inlet is a good idea, normally components/panels like this have drain holes and having somewhere for the water to drain out is the best solution IMO.

Also if fully sealed will it not be humidity chamber and therefore likely to rust (oxide) from the inside out?
Pete

 

Indeed. Thinking of the same thing, too.

 

Holes in panels without movable windows are typically ment to vent air or drain the fluids when the vehicle components are submerged during the factory priming process. They are not ment to drain water that should have never entered the component. Correcting the deficient seal at the upper window area of the rear hatch is to eliminate the intrusion. Those that own the F12 will note that the holes located toward the lower portion of the hatch are not in an area of the panel that would ensure the complete drainage of water intrusion into the panel.

 

Cars going back to the dealer tomorrow to hopefully fix the problem. Update to follow.

 

Don't completely agree, but pleased that there are air movement holes so sealing the deficient seal will not create a chamber

Pete

 

I have the same problem, its going to the dealer next month to be fixed, he said it was a common problem.

 

Aren't the body panels and chasis all made out of aluminium? If aluminium, I guess it will probably just oxide first rather than full on rusting as with steel

 

Oxide is to aluminium is what rust is to steel, as far as I understand.
Pete

 

The oxide layer on aluminum is passivating, and so can protect against further damage. Rust is specifically an oxide of iron. It is not passivating...T

 

Yes. That's the property of aluminium. As long as oxide on the aluminium is not disturbed, the damage progression will stop. Thus it usually doesn't "rust" through to a big hole as with iron/steel. Ahh...that brings back memory when I was a chem major.

 

I didn't want to chance breaking a fastening clip doing the disassembly. Using a magnifying glass, strong light and a syringe (w/o needle), I put a dab of silicone in the gap where the intrusion space is created by the two adjoining weather strips. If water is coming in that way, this should stop it short of a two day monsoon rain. Sorry for the dirty car pic...pollen
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Does filling show very much day-to-day?

 

Can barely see it with the naked eye. That is magnified and bright flashed in the picture.

 

Noted with thanks

 

Bumping this back up for those that have not checked it and possibly dealing with problems from it. I discovered this yesterday, just before my car threw multiple codes for ABS, E-diff, and a few others. Some claim it is related to the water retaining issue freaking out the third brake light sensor, but not sure yet. Either way it needs to be fixed, so I got mine apart tonight and will let it dry through the week before sealing and reassembling. It was retaining quite a bit of water, as you can see in the pics.

FYI, the inner hatch side trim panels must be removed first. You’ll see a screw for each side, which exposes an Allen bolt when removed. Once the bolt is removed, you apply pressure to remove the trim piece and pop the plastic push pins out. There are two more Allen bolts on each side of the trim piece that exposes the bolts for the 3rd brake light. Remove those four bolts, then apply pressure to pop the plastic retaining pins out. There are four nuts that must be removed to remove the third brake light, and each end of the 3rd brake light also has plastic retaining clips that must be popped out. I used a pry tool with a flat end and put a towel over the end of it to avoid scratching anything. I applied pressure slowly under the end of the brake light, and it popped out. Lots of water ran out when I did that. I have also included pics of the plastic clips that have to be pushed out on the brake light. Fingers crossed that it’s the cause of my trouble codes. Hopefully I’ll find out this weekend.
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gee , I'm signing for a '14 F12 tomorrow , I'm worried that the dealer won't fix something that isn't "obviously' broken. How do I know that this issue won't happen to me? Any suggested test procedure ?
I'm thinking if the car is washed & detailed before given to me wouldn't that be enough water to penetrate the third light and be stuck in there?