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Electrical mystery?

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by EZORED, Dec 22, 2019.

  1. EZORED

    EZORED Formula Junior
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    Nov 24, 2007
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    Scottsdale, AZ
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    Dennis
    Warmed up the car this morning, turned onthe driving lights, headed out to coffee. Suddenly there is no headlights or ? interior lights everything electrical do the lighting is shut down except for the turn signals. Instrument gauges all work what could shut everything down like that? Also Ac fan not working, no door lights



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  2. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran
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    Dec 31, 2002
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    Sounds like the infamous white connectors at the fuse box.
    The connectors at the fuse box use very thin female spade like metal prongs that can't handle the current load.
    It transfers the heat to the surrounding white housing which melts and transfers the heat to the male spade which damages the fuse box.

    Since this is the first time going out, it's probably just damaged the white connector.


    Shamile

    Freeze....Miami Vice!

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  3. EZORED

    EZORED Formula Junior
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    Nov 24, 2007
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    Dennis
    #3 EZORED, Dec 22, 2019
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2019
    Question 1992 512 tr. following electrical is down, AC, Windows, Interior lights, head lights, driving lights, fog lights, dash lights, door lights. Car runs fine! Instruments work but lighting. Pulled upper white connector on drivers side of fuse box. one connector solid pink wire is slightly discolored but that is all? could it be my ignition switch? Looking at the wiring diagram, they all have that in common.
     
  4. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    If you check your OM (page L2), you'll see that things like the door lights and headlights are not "circuits operated by the key", and, since your engine starts and runs, that also suggests the ignition switch is not the trouble. Since you have so many things not working, the first thing I'd try is unplugging/inspecting/replugging the large 2-wire connector that brings +12V up to the fuse-relay panel:
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    The two large red wires of this connector (I think) originate at a stud on the positive battery cable terminal so wouldn't hurt to have a look there also to to see if anything's wacky/loose.
     
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  5. EZORED

    EZORED Formula Junior
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    Nov 24, 2007
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    Steve, I think you nailed it. I pulled the connector and reinserted. then inspected the stud on the positive battery cable terminal. I was able to move it so I tightened and wallah, every thing worked. I am surprised that the car would start and run! thanks Dennis
     
  6. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson F1 World Champ
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    Well, you had a 50-50 chance of the engine being able to run ;). The way it's architected is that one of the spade connectors supplies +12V power to 1/2 of the things on the fuse-relay panel, and the other one supplies +12V power to the other 1/2 of things. Wouldn't have been practical to have a single, huge connector and wire so they split it into two parallel paths. Your trouble must have been in the 1/2 that didn't involve the engine functions.
    Although it's working now (and you've improved things at the battery end), if you need to "squeeze" the female spade connector loops a little more closed to get a tighter fit onto the male spades that would be no sin IMO -- you can see in the photo that the way the red wires are routed and bent, it puts a weird twisting moment on that connector that would work to open up the female spade closest to the red wires.
     
  7. EZORED

    EZORED Formula Junior
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    Nov 24, 2007
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