Thanks up4speed for the write up. I started a topic a while back (458 Exhaust bracket) https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/index.php?threads/458-Exhaust-bracket-Compl%2E-with-Bush.647626/ but without any reply I went ahead and did it myself too. It turns out quite simple and straight forward swap. Initially I was worried that the cat would drop lower and will give me a hard time trying to lift it back up without removing the floor and putting a jack underneath, but in the end I just did the swap and everything from the top in the engine bay. One thing that I would like to share, is that from my old bushes’ screws were done in the opposite direction of each other. So I just followed the same way as it was done b4. Not knowing if it was the original design or what so ever… anyway I guess it doesnt matter which way. Photo attached is my newly installed bush showing the direction of the bolt. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Recently just got a engine gasket leak fixed. It’s the front end side gasket (not the valve cover). Found the leak when doing oil change Image Unavailable, Please Login You can see the oil droplet Here are the pictures of them taking it apart. The mechanic looked it over and decided to not drop the engine to service. Took 10 hours and after he told me he would never do that job again without dropping the engine. The parts were cheap just a couple gaskets Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
All the brackets I have seen so far have the bolts all in the same direction. I have a feeling that yours was replaced at some point before you owned the car (if you are in fact not the first owner)
Howdy gents, apologize if there is a better thread for this as I tried using the search function as best as I could Is there anything definitive in the manual, or known otherwise, as to all fluids in the car and frequency for which they should be changed? RTFM is on the mind, but my manual is in my car in storage for the time being.. Off the top of my head I can think of: Oil - annual Brake fluid - ? Power steering fluid - ? DCT fluid - ? Coolant - ? Missing anything? Working on scheduling a service and going through my past records to determine what fluids have and have not been changed, and which ones need it.. Thanks very much!
Sam, I posted the results of my DCT, gear and engine oil analysis done by Blackstone. This is based on a 458 run hard and tracked, I was surprised the DCT and gear oil held up so well and look healthy from a wear perspective. Engine oil (changed at 4,000 miles) has good detergents left, shows a bit of wear and perhaps some fuel residue in the oil, maybe a rich injector. Another sample may tell me more. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/dct-and-gear-oil-analysis.661762/ I bought the car third hand, so no real way of finding its use history, but I will probably not change the DCT for a while, keep the intervals of the engine the same, and change coolant every two years. And brake fluid is crazy for me because I track the car and am always flushing the lines and topping off with Castrol SRF. Under normal use I would just go by the recommended schedule, but I’m anything but. Most folks don’t realize these premium fluids last a long time and can take quite aggressive use.
Appreciate the detailed reply my friend Like you, I got my Speciale third hand (maybe 5th hand to be technically correct!) so the prior history is murky at best. I've been as meticulous as possible to establish a solid maintenance history for the car since I got her in 2019, so I voluntarily had steering and gear fluids changed last year even though told not necessarily along with coolant and oil Doing oil and brake fluid this go around.. knock on wood keep her running like a top!
Always welcome. My recommendation is to have a sample of the oil analyzed, I had my tech send mine out to Blackstone ($40.) If nothing else, it establishes a baseline for engine wear and can detect problems before they become catastrophic expenses, I will do it every oil change (I’ve had four already this year ) henceforth. The DCT and gear oil were also tested, and were fine. I use high quality Castrol brake fluid and bleed/change it several times per year, but I track the car a lot. All of this Information is great documentation to provide piece of mind to you and any prospective buyer. I discovered these lubricants, including engine oil, hold up very well for the type and amount of driving most folks do.
Just came across this document and would like to share it here, it's the procedure for changing the brake caliper dust boot (not for the seal inside). The pdf is made for 488 but 458 also use the same caliper. If you are looking to buy the dust boot and seal kit for DIY, I can help you with that too, just send me a PM
Hey all, I'm considering a 458 but wondering how much of the regular maintenance can I do by myself? I've recently gotten an inspection done on a vehicle I had interest in and this was the report (attached). How much of this can I fix myself if I am handy with tools?
I'm going to tackle the coolant change this fall. Has anyone done it on their own yet? It seems very straight forward, and easy, however, I have a question regarding refilling the system. According to the shop manual (see attachments, document2 has the info I am asking about), I am supposed to fill the system statically, then replace the coolant tank cap. Then I am supposed to dynamically fill it, where the engine will be running at various RPM's, then I have to top off the coolant as it gets sucked into the engine. My question is..... after the engine is running all that time to bleed the system, won't there be too much pressure to open the cap and top off the system? I would have expected the manual to say to leave the cap off during this time, until it is warmed up and topped off, but they specify to have it capped for this procedure. Has anyone done this yet? Should I be ok taking the cap off after the engine is hot?
With that style remote bottle and cap, there will be some pressure. With the air gap in the bottle and the expansion room it provides, the pressure is not enough to make it spray everywhere. Unscrew the cap slowly, take 10 seconds, and you will be fine. Would you be kind enough to post the draining procedure as well? I was going to do this soon too. I am at 50k now and plan to do air filter, cabin filter, spark plugs, coolant, and brake fluid.
The cooler lines are a very common failure. There are two sources of the failure. First the line itself will crack at the oring flange. Second the aluminum retaining bracket will yield under track use and heat and it allows the line and oring to push out of the gearbox. On the Challenge cars we changed the lines every year and used a titanium clamp and finally we replaced the entire design with a proper fitting and lines with AN fittings. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login View attachment 414561
I did this two days ago and followed the WSM procedure. Took 30+ minutes and I removed the cap multiple times throughout the procedure. There was no excess pressure that caused any issues.
Do you by chance have one of the new designs with proper fitting and lines with AN fittings leftover you might be willing to sell or perhaps know where I can purchase?
I do not have any currently. I am happy to share the cad file or if there is a group interested I will get a price to run a batch from my machinist.
Thanks! Did you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the coolant sensor, or did you not bother?
Well I had a massive radiator leak so the system drained itself Checkout my other thread Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have a silly question (that I probably should already know). When removing the belly pan to change the oil, is it absolutely necessary to remove the rear diffuser? I always removed it in the past (it says to in the shop manual). However, I was just thinking about it today, since I have to do the oil change soon, and I don't remember any part of the belly pan being trapped in a way where I wouldn't be able to slide it out from under the diffuser, after removing the screws that attach it to the diffuser. Did anyone here complete the oil change without removing the rear diffuser? If so, was it easy? Is it worth it to still take the time to remove the diffuser first so I can minimize the chance of any damage?
I don't remove the diffuser. I don't remove the belly pan either though. I used a hole saw to make 3 holes in the correct spots for easy access to the drains.
I don't have holes in mine, and not willing to make holes (yet). But I'd like to see you change the accessory belt through those holes, lol I almost made holes, then decided not to because it will only help me 1/2 the time, since I replace the accessory belt every two years (to prevent that screetch when shifting at higher RPM's). So what do you do when you absolutely have to remove the pan? Do you remove the diffuser in the rear, or can it be left in place?
