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Dino Saga 061001 _ Wind Wings

Discussion in 'Corbani's Corner' started by John Corbani, Oct 1, 2006.

  1. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
    Honorary Owner

    May 5, 2005
    1,153
    Santa Barbara, CA
    Full Name:
    John Corbani
    #1 John Corbani, Oct 1, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dino Saga 061001 _ Wind Wings

    Wind Wing clamps refused to stay on. Prior owner gave up, pulled inner clamping pads and bought ugly but strong clamps. Have been on car for 20+ years. I never got up any interest in curing basic problem after one unsuccessful try. Wrote column on ventilation and looked real close at original clamps (I keep all old parts, except tires, belts and some hoses). What if I made a larger clamp base? Increased area should reduce strain on glue, clamps might stay on. OK, where are the stress points? Max stress is straight to the rear. Round base shape is a lousy way to go. Stress concentrates, glue lets loose in tension. Increased rear area should reduce stress. Maybe there was an easy way.

    Looked closely at the attach points of each clamp. Odd looking chip on right wind wing. Placed clamp in position and funny thing. Looks like glue was about as strong as the glass. Rear glue probably let loose and as clamp came off, it pulled some glass with it. And tempered glass didn’t go into a million pieces. Miracles are OK!

    A dog point screw holds clamp to base. Remove screw slowly because there is a spring waiting to fly across the room. Found out the hard way. Inside there is a lock pin, the coil spring and wave spring. Cleaned everything up and took a look at the base. It’s chrome plated steel. Latch shaft is slotted and cut away on one side. You want to add area parallel to slot and opposite cutaway side. Alignment of slot with edge of glass is critical.

    Base is 1/8” thick so ground half off and added a larger base. Could have just relieved entire bottom but decided to remove half and keep an alignment guide. Should have gone all the way. Hacksaw went through plating and marked halfway point. Grinder took care of rest. 1/16” outlet box cover did just fine as a source of raw material. Sawed and filed rectangles 1.2” x 0.5”. Brazed the first piece to the base. Figured that brazing was overkill. Tinned both pieces of second base and soft soldered them together. Way to go.

    Ground and filed one base to a triangular shape and test fit on window. Triangle clashed visually and found that clamp looked better mounted lower than original. Squared off triangle. Extra base wound up 1” tall. A ¾” to 1” square base with slightly rounded corners would be just fine. Placed assembled clamp where it looked good and marked outside of window with a Sharpie marker. Used special “Mirror Glue” and stuck a clamp on. 30 minutes later I tried it and all OK.

    Glued other one on and made rubbing pads from 0.093” aluminum. Compressed rubber enough to make a good seal on both sides. Hacksaw and file got two pads that covered old pad mounting holes. 400 grit wet/dry paper made the finish. A single 4/40, 100 degree Phillips flat head screw holds them on.

    Will let you know how they last but they have been on a week. Last try lasted 10 minutes after 2 hour cure. That was about 19 years ago. We are making progress. Slowly.

    John
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  3. dignini

    dignini Formula 3

    Aug 21, 2005
    1,337
    NJ
    Full Name:
    Luigi Marazzi
    Would using the bolt through ones be considered acceptable?
     
  4. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
    Honorary Owner

    May 5, 2005
    1,153
    Santa Barbara, CA
    Full Name:
    John Corbani
    Bolt thru glass? Sure if you can get a hole in the glass and use a Nylon shoulder washer on the outside. Regular silicone glue would stop rotation and yet be removeable.

    Bolt thru larger plate into existing base? Sure, 100 degree #8 flathead screw would probably be strong enough. #10 for sure. Loctite would hold parts from rotating.

    Soft solder was easy once chrome was off existing base and steel add-on was cleaned up. Easier than drilling and tapping base.

    All would look really nice if I had polished and chrome plated after soldering but that can wait. One of these days.

    John
     
  5. dignini

    dignini Formula 3

    Aug 21, 2005
    1,337
    NJ
    Full Name:
    Luigi Marazzi
  6. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
    Honorary Owner

    May 5, 2005
    1,153
    Santa Barbara, CA
    Full Name:
    John Corbani
    Didn't know there was such a thing. I get no picture when I click and can't figure how bolt-on is constructed and what it bolts-on to. Do you have any more info?

    John
     
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  8. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

    Feb 14, 2005
    9,263
    CHNDLR
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    Scott
    New adhesives have been pointed to as the solution, but let's step back and look at the problem: too much pressure on the latch. My adhesive actua;;y held but took out a dish shaped piece of glass. I have removed the plastic stricker, re-profiled it and attached it to reduce sealing pressures


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