Dino Saga 050814 _ 2nd gear fixes, shift gate

Dino Saga 050814 _ 2nd gear fixes, shift gate


The second gear synchro myth started in the 70s, became wisdom through the 80s and still abounds. God only knows why Ferrari did not tell everyone how to fix the problem about 1975 when the first Dinos built up 25,000 miles or so. The second gear synchro lasts as long as all the other synchros. My Dino at 185,000 miles is still going strong and gearbox has never been touched. We looked during recent engine overhaul and figured to leave “just fine” alone.

When I bought the car the dealer said that you had to be deliberate when shifting to second. Said it was typical. I was deliberate! No big problems for the first 3 years. Then it became difficult to hit the gear even with double clutching. Once in, OK! But getting there fast was impossible.

I studied the transmission drawings and could see nothing unique for second. All shift linkage is identical except for reverse. What had changed?

Then I looked at the whole shift linkage from knob to shaft going into gearbox. What was special about second? THE SHIFT LEVER HAD ¼” LESS POSSIBLE TRAVEL IN SECOND AND THIRD! Thought about wear in universals, levers, forks, etc. and Bingo! All that was necessary was to increase travel to the minimum required to work the synchros. Already knew that R-1 and 4-5 travel was enough!

Folks who don’t hit second never complain about third! OK, lets fix them both!

The shift lever base housing is an aluminum casting. The shift gate (with the slots) is a chromed steel casting. Two oval head screws in line with 2-3 hold the two parts together. The gate had short slots at 2-3 so the screw heads would not be touched when shifting. R-1 and 4-5 slots were 1/8” or more longer, each. That was bad but the base was worse. There was ¼” of aluminum between the inner surface of the casting and the screw threads. The base of the shift lever is a steel casting with a top roughly square and much larger than the round shift lever that is limited by the gate. The shift lever base hit the casting long before the lever hit the ends of the gate slots. The worst of all possible worlds was there.

The cure was/is trivial. Get out the trusty Moto-Tool and mount a 2-flute steel cutter that will go after aluminum. Cut away the base casting so that shift lever base can go all the way to the screw threads. Stuff the base with a towel so that chips don’t get into everything and then vacuum. Change to a carbide cutter and cut 2-3 slots in gate so that they go all the way to the screw countersinks. It you are a purist, polish and re-chrome gate. Not much chance or rust in Santa Barbara so I did not sweat it. I put everything back together and the gearbox has been a delight ever since. I shoot the universals with a little oil every now and then to keep the Gods happy. You never know!

Take a look at the shift knob in the picture. The engraved numbers have been worn off and I can’t get anyone with a modern computer engraving set-up to re-do the numbers. They do not do balls. I think that I have found an old timer who has a pantograph system and might be willing to take the job. Will let you know how that works out.

Comments?

John

P.S. 308-328-etc. owners might be interested. Gate and housing are similar if not identical.
JC
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