yes, that`s likely what happened .... the fuel pump issue is probably more straight ... the change from black to yellow cad at #04068 would make sense....
LOL right on, lots of confusion from the factory. Ferrari had never produced the quantity of cars before the Dino; up to four a day which was a stunning record. Cars were pushed to the side because of parts availability delays making serial number sequence independentof delivery order. I'll bet parts install was chaos and applaud Matthias for applying German precision to the Italian casino of parts history. After restoring, I test ran my Corona pump for 2 hours checking for heat and leaks before installing in 05702. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
#03050 is my car and I can confirm that the pump went back on fitted in the correct position The photo above was just shows the parts laid out on the bench prior to reassembly. Here is my all black fuel filter as found installed in #04054 during the restoration strip down. The engine had never been out of this car from new and neither had the fuel filter or pump. Interestingly the filter housing had no decal on it nor any evidence of one ever having been fitted on it yet the fuel pump still retained it's BCD decal. Image Unavailable, Please Login
it wasn`t a decal on the fuel filter, it was always a print and that should have been on every filter housing....
Great technical paper, Thgank you. This depicts the Euro version fuel line routing, the USA is different and passes through a P hanger off the drop gear case When I test ran my pump for 2 hours I used clear fuel line and inspected the flow, noticing very small bubbles in the output which was strange
Please reply if you have had your engine or car on a dyno with the stock fuel pump. On 02840 the mixture was going lean at high revs on the chassis dyno because the fuel pump couldn't supply enough gas. But maybe the pump wasn't functioning perfectly. Haven't I seen diagrams with two of those stock pumps in the system?
OK!! For the criminally insane! I've reproduced the sticker on the Corona fuel pump. If anyone is interested they are for sale. PM me. Steve Image Unavailable, Please Login
apparently that`s a very difficult job or impossible to do I was told... any further input / experience appreciated....
That was on the early versions with the 2 Bendix pumps. Ferrari going cheap once again... Corona pumps are the Yugos of FIAT. Regards, Alberto
My originals on the Stratos still going strong at 27,000 kilometers. The originals on my Dino were working fine on my Dino with 43K miles. I think with the BCD pumps a little trash or gooey gas can seize the rotor vanes and burn up the motor. They also can get a little sticky from disuse. If you free them up before you burn up the motor you are good to go.
I tried to remove my casing to send out for plating and couldn't, as it is secured with three serious peens that I could not get a pick under to coax out.
I have mine all apart for rebuilding, I hope. Have broken nothing yet and will post some pics here soon so all can see the innards. Still, if anyone has any info on a NOS one available anywhere for sale, please let me know, otherwise this one will go on my car (if I'm successful in the rebuild) for show only and I'll run a Hardi for normal use.
Pump in used condition but works. Mounting clamp is upside down...slots on the clamp should match the screw bolsters on the pump body... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Inside of motor cover. Bending the tabs that retain the cover in the motor body was a b****. They got a little beat up too, but will be smoothed a bit before yellow zinc plating. Inside there is a press-fit star fitting with the tip bearing in it. The two motor magnets are either pressed in or glued, I can't tell, so I just cleaned the heck out of the inside without further disassembly here. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The motor...both contacts are spring loaded and the springs were still good. The comtacts themselves are very thick, so they should last for a very very long time. Both the positive and negative comtacts are similar except ppsitive is shielded with a small plastic cover to avoid shorts through the motor cover that sit a milimeter away when in place. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I cleaned the entire motor with liberal spraying of WD40 followed by compressed air and gentle wipeimg with a cotton rag until no more wear dust could be found to remove. Then a couple small drops of 3 in 1 oil down the motor shaft and where the contacts slide. Then further disassembly of the pump side by removing the three cad plated screws... Image Unavailable, Please Login
A word on gaskets..there are three, they are all circular, obviously, but only one is round profile and this one is available at ACE hardware and is the one that seals the motor cover to the body. The other two are identical flat profile and seal each end of the pump side. Fortunately those on this pump are perfect still so I'll reuse them until they prove they don't work any longer.
This is the filter/intake side of the pump...a bunch dried mung here...probably soaking in deisel for a while would help, but I did the spray WD40 from both sides of the screen occasionaly for a couple days and it eventually cleared up nicely. Image Unavailable, Please Login
This is the outflow/centrifugal pump side of the pump body...note the flat gasket still in place. Image Unavailable, Please Login
More disassembly pics...be careful with the pump vanes...they are loose little plastic pieces and slide anywhere they want when the center part of the pump is removed. The large stainless ring just slides out, as does the blued flat base plate. This allows good access to the screen from the inside for cleaning. Image Unavailable, Please Login
