Cleaning Sticky Interior Parts - 355 & Others

Check out Robbie.....

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=221620

 

I'd try 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner. I've used it for years and it's never attacked anything (but adhesive). Of course, try it out where it doesn't matter. Available at most body/paint shop suppliers.

 

My quick thoughts (from experience):
Acetone: don't use it; too strong and will eat the plastic
denat. alcho. - works well and did NOT see any plastic damage (although works slower)
oven cleaner - works very well and pretty quick; did not see any damage to the plastic

 

285Ferrari (Robbie) is the absolute answer to 355 sticky parts. He did a perfect job on mine.

Dino
98 355 Spider

 

www.stickynomore.com

 

Cleaning these parts is a real PITA. I'd use stickynomore.com to solve the problem. But if you must diy I have used easy off oven cleaner on everything without issue. Best part about it is the part is so clean it is ready to paint. I have not had destickified parts long enough to know if my simple repaint will not eventually peel. I think stickynomore.com offers a guarantee so how can you go wrong with that? Another cool thing you can do is destickify and send your parts to a guy to watertransfer decals over the parts so you can get carbon fiber patterns, marble, burlwood etc on the ferrari oe parts. You can get some cool bling effects with water transfer and it is not that expensive to do all the plastic in a car.

 

The sticky parts seem to be more due to a paint/coating that Ferrari uses. There are metal grills on the front window defogger that went sticky.

Oven Cleaner cuts the coating. Respraying again does not attack the plastic. As such. if a good paint is used, I believe that the problem will be fixed and not a temporary solution.

Agreed that it was messy but when finished made the interior look so much better. I did not know that someone offered this service. Could have kept my basement cleaner.


Greg

 

I too did the oven cleaner with good results. I ended up with a the center conslole cleaned of the sticky stuff, but had raw plastic which didn't look very fitting in a ferrari. I contemplated recoating them with plasticote, or other product to achieve a similar result to OEM, but opted instead to let someone of more experience and expertise handle it for me. (Thanks Robbie, I can't wait to see the results!).

I think the sticky interior is definately a function of many things...heat and UV, but something that doesn't seem to get as much attention, is cleaners. My vents were actually pretty decent until some interior cleaner was used on the dashboard, immediately after application (previous cleanings were just california duster, or mild soap and water on a slightly damp cloth), I noticed the stuff get sticky right before my eyes. I had hoped that it was just softened while it was wet and hoped that it would "harden" back up somewhat after it evaporated, but noticed that the affected areas remained permanently soft. I found I couldn't use the california duster in there any more because the strands would stick and it was just a mess .

For those of you who don't have to problem, use the mildest of cleaners. For those of you who have it, Based on results that I've read here about Robbie's work, and soon I'll be able to comment on my own bits (scheduled to be shipped back tomorrow), Robbie obviously has an excellent proven system.

Good luck!

 

This is the thread about the interior refresh on my 360 spider.

I hope it is helpfull

Regards,

Stew

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?p=137655456#post137655456

 

Assuming you guys are referring to sticky dash, steering wheels, other plastics etc, this is due, I understand, to deterioration/oxidation of the organics making up these materials, like, in most part, the vinyls. As mentioned in above post, uv light, sun, and HEAT contribute to inevitable plastics degradation.

Ever notice that slimy film on the interior surface of the windshield, way down low, nearest where the windshield meets the dashboard? Thats a build up of organic compounds evaporating off, and condensing onto the closely attached lower windshield surface. Its also known as plain old crud! It includes formaldehyde, esters, of course, vinyls, even metal salts like lead.

On whats best to use, technically, no one solvent will dissolve all these best, but I start with denatured ethanol, it's not v hazardous to breathe, then when dry, test it out with your CLEAN hand, and if still sticky, I go with mineral spirits....doesnt dissolve paint, or hardly reacts with interior plastics. Also, it's not flammable.

STAY AWAY FROM KETONES, LIKE ACETONE/MEK, AND STUFF LIKE TOLUENE!! Too powerful, v flammable, v volatile, v high vapor pressure, so before it can have a chance to dissolve, it evaporates, not that you want it to dissolve, as it usually ruins many interior finishes!

 

Things like MEK, Toluene, or even Mineral Spirits are too agressive for most styrene plastics. MEK and Toluene are active ingredients in plastic model glue!

I would suggest that Isopropyl Alchohol mixed with Deionized Water and a little detergent would be the safest.

There is also a chemical Butyl Cellusolve that is used in many household cleaners that is pretty safe and good as a stain lifter on carpets and woven fabrics.

 

Have you experienced the "Sticky" phenomenon? The plastic underneath the rubbery coating is fine (at least that was what I experienced) it was the coating that they (Ferrari) applied to the plastic bits which deteriorated and became "Sticky" I stripped off some of the coating and found the plastic to be in decent condition. It isn't the plastic that is degrading, yet the coating that is applied on top of the plastic that is the problem.

 

PRETTY!!!
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Wow! Just to clarify, those are the before and after pictures of the same pieces, right? What a fantastic transformation. I'm really excited to get my pieces back!

 

Please post the steps for others to get those results.
Would help quite a few people that might think the only option is to buy new parts!

 

Same pieces, pics taken one day apart....

www.stickynomore.com

 

In the photo with the ash tray and mirror control, it seems as though the mirror control itself is not recoated. Is it a bad photo or am I just seeing it wrong?
The rest looks great.


Lou

 

You are correct. The control has sensitive electronics inside that you don't want solvents, etc getting into. The control itself does not have the sticky coating from the factory either, so no need to strip it. Also if it was refinished the little white arrows would be gone...

 

Wow, this a good site to keep in mind.

 

No reason to look any further that Robbie's website to fix this problem. By the time you buy chemicals, gloves, paint..and factor in time.... you are at the price he charges with no risk.

My hats off to Robbie for holding this type of quality at a price everyone can afford. A rare feat in this market!

Dave

 

When Dave Speaks - People Listen!

You said it, Dave. Robbie (285ferrari) does fantastic work. These are expensive, highly visible parts. Moreover, I know how hard he worked to perfect the stripping and color matching. I love doing my own work, but in this case I deferred to his experience and expertise. I couldn't be happier with the job he did.

LINK: http://www.stickynomore.com/

 

Dave and Scott--Thanks for the kind words..

 

Ah man....... where were you when I did mine? Had no idea someone did this service.

While it didn't take much in the way of "cost for materials" to do mine myself, I probably have $10,000,000,000,000.07 in my time alone!

 

Hi,
I enjoy reading your posts, very knowledgeable. I just recently bought a 98 F355 Spider 6 speed.
It has the usual problems, cracked manifolds, sticky interior, and the clutch is slippin. I been playing with Vintage Vettes for 30yrs and this is my first Ferrari.
I would like your opinion on putting the Fabspeed Headers on my car, they sound reasonably priced..


Thks, Bill