This is one of the wiring harness clamps attached to the rod bolt covers. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here are the hose clamps. Note they are smooth inside. Inherently better design than stock. Also more expensive. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Also a good time to remove and clean up this coolant junction, but don't hook it up until both intakes are installed. It has a small black bracket on the back. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I had to make a temporary diversion from the top of the engine to the differential side cover. When I removed the RH axle, a small amount of oil was found when I removed the CV joint. There is a small seal that had apparently gone bad. No time like the present. The seal was ordered from T Rutlands. Step one, remove the 19 mm bolt (use impact gun) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The large washer has a little nib that fits into the corresponding hole in the hub assembly. Remove washer and tap hub assembly off splines. Clean all pieces. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now pry out old seal and clean everything, then replace new seal. A little oil acts as lubricant. A 1 3/4 inch socket acts as a perfect seal installation tool. Easy peazy. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now re-insert splined hub followed by washer and bolt. Make sure little nib on washer fits into hole in hub. I put a little Hylomar on the bolt threads and torqued it to 98 NM (like the 19 mm cam pulley bolts). I could not find an official torque value for this bolt. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
For those of you in the frigid North, here is a photo of my garden and some cucumbers I picked today. We have two growing seasons here in Florida... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
This is the black thin piece of metal that mounts to 3 of the intake manifold studs and protects the wiring harness. Note how the grommet fit in. This piece should ride above the top of the valve covers. Image Unavailable, Please Login
RH intake removed, before and after cleaning of top of the block and head with BrakeKlean, a brass brush, rags and a lot of effort. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I painted the valve and belt covers with VHT engine wrinkle paint. I decided to make it easy and just cover the old paint, after scrubbing with mineral spirits and liberal amounts of BrakeKleen. All threaded holes and studs were masked and then left in the Florida sun to heat up (along with the paint cans). The black was easy, but the red seemed too bright compared to the original, so I put down a mist coat of black first, under the red. The final color is closer to the original, but still not perfect. It will look great down in the engine bay. The last pic shows the difference, but it looks like a closer match in person. We will see when the paint dries. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I also received my new radiators from Wizard Cooling in upstate NY. 8 days from order to fabrication to delivery. Not bad. They are magnificent aluminum works of art and should be incredibly more efficient than the original Ferrari units. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks to Clyde Romero for the tip on the Wizard Cooling radiators. After drying, the red VHT wrinkle paint with black mist coat looks much closer to stock. Original on right, painted on left: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
After some careful sanding, the valve covers are done and look great Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The belt covers went back on with the battery connection and other bits. Don't forget the 8 mm bolts on the back plastic cover. I could not find any torque specs, but all the nuts are lock nuts, so just get them tight. I'm going to be changing the crank sensor connectors to gold terminals, so I left the RH wires loose to make it easier. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
This part of the air injector system is much easier to assemble on the bench. Measure the old hoses carefully. I got the new secondary air valves at RockAuto.com. I think they were about $12 each. They are the same as a 1990 Pontiac Firebird 5.0L 305 CID V8 and are called "Air Smog Pump Check Valve". The air flows from the pump through the plastic solenoids to the check valves. There is an arrow (see photo) on the solenoids to you don't get mixed up. The weatherhead type hoses are tough to get on. A bit of lube helps. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The RH top side of the block came out pretty nice after cleaning and the application of a bit of aluminum anti-seize. Don't forget to reconnect the starter wire clamps to the rod bolt covers. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The RH intake hoses were changed, the gasket mating surfaces cleaned and a tiny bit of Loktite 518 applied to both sides of the gaskets to ensure an air tight seal. First the coolant hoses were assembled after cleaning the aluminum pieces. I opted for better clamps. Not original, but this is a driver, not a show queen. Don't forget the black bracket that goes on the back of the central 3-way union (purpose?) and the small coolant connector hose. Plus I hate leaks. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
