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94 512TR 66,000 mile major

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by JIMBO, Sep 9, 2019.

  1. JIMBO

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  3. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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  4. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    I had to make a temporary diversion from the top of the engine to the differential side cover. When I removed the RH axle, a small amount of oil was found when I removed the CV joint. There is a small seal that had apparently gone bad. No time like the present. The seal was ordered from T Rutlands.
    Step one, remove the 19 mm bolt (use impact gun)
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    Now re-insert splined hub followed by washer and bolt. Make sure little nib on washer fits into hole in hub. I put a little Hylomar on the bolt threads and torqued it to 98 NM (like the 19 mm cam pulley bolts). I could not find an official torque value for this bolt.
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  10. JIMBO

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    Now repeat the above procedures on the RH intake manifold and block.
     
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  13. ago car nut

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    This is the black thin piece of metal that mounts to 3 of the intake manifold studs and protects the wiring harness. Note how the grommet fit in. This piece should ride above the top of the valve covers.
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  15. JIMBO

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  16. ago car nut

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    Flat engines collect plenty of dirt!
     
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  17. turbo-joe

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    and hard to remove :(
     
  18. JIMBO

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    Too many nooks and crannies.
     
  19. JIMBO

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    I painted the valve and belt covers with VHT engine wrinkle paint. I decided to make it easy and just cover the old paint, after scrubbing with mineral spirits and liberal amounts of BrakeKleen. All threaded holes and studs were masked and then left in the Florida sun to heat up (along with the paint cans). The black was easy, but the red seemed too bright compared to the original, so I put down a mist coat of black first, under the red. The final color is closer to the original, but still not perfect. It will look great down in the engine bay. The last pic shows the difference, but it looks like a closer match in person. We will see when the paint dries.
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  20. JIMBO

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    BOKE, vincent355 and turbo-joe like this.
  21. ago car nut

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    Never had a problem cooling my TR with original radiators! But I live in the Northeast.
     
  22. JIMBO

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  23. JIMBO

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  24. JIMBO

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  25. JIMBO

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    This part of the air injector system is much easier to assemble on the bench. Measure the old hoses carefully. I got the new secondary air valves at RockAuto.com. I think they were about $12 each. They are the same as a 1990 Pontiac Firebird 5.0L 305 CID V8 and are called "Air Smog Pump Check Valve". The air flows from the pump through the plastic solenoids to the check valves. There is an arrow (see photo) on the solenoids to you don't get mixed up. The weatherhead type hoses are tough to get on. A bit of lube helps.
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  27. JIMBO

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    The RH intake hoses were changed, the gasket mating surfaces cleaned and a tiny bit of Loktite 518 applied to both sides of the gaskets to ensure an air tight seal. First the coolant hoses were assembled after cleaning the aluminum pieces. I opted for better clamps. Not original, but this is a driver, not a show queen.
    Don't forget the black bracket that goes on the back of the central 3-way union (purpose?) and the small coolant connector hose.
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