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94 512TR 66,000 mile major

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by JIMBO, Sep 9, 2019.

  1. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Well, here we go again. After 36,000 problem-free miles, the venerable flat 12 has begun to leak a bit of oil (from the rear transmission drain plug). Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
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  2. JIMBO

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    So I guess it's time for a major service. The last one was done by me at home in 2005. I am interested to see the condition of the belts in comparison to the new ones. I guess the next service will be at 100,000 miles, but by then I'll be close to 80 and too old to do this again. Not much of a leak after a 120 mile jaunt and letting it sit for 2 days.

    I will try to bring FChat along in this process. So far I have opened the drain plugs on each radiator and flushed the coolant with fresh water (engine running) and then blew some compressed air in the tank to get a little more liquid out. The drain plugs are rubber at the bottom of each tank and are removed with a stubby flat blade screwdriver (position and style different from workshop manual. Don't lose the o-rings.

    First step was to remove the air filter boxes and the sturdy bar they are attached to. Use a hex socket and a 17mm wrench. A few taps with a hammer and a piece of wood will free it up. Reassemble all parts and put it aside for later.

    I have already obtained a major service kit from T. Rutlands, as well as a 29 mm shim kit and some Hill Engineering tensioner bearings from Ricambi. I will change the belts, all seals and gaskets, water pump seal, new crank sensors, ac and alternator belts, check valves, re-paint (or powder coat) the valve covers, new hoses all around and hopefully remove and check the gas tanks and fuel pumps. At least that's the plan. This will take a while, as other pursuits (golf and bass fishing) are also a part of life. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  3. Natkingcolebasket69

    Rossa Subscribed

    Got to be one of the highest mileage 512m ever. Beautiful to see it driven; great work u are doing!


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  4. JIMBO

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  5. ttforcefed

    ttforcefed F1 World Champ
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    this thread is worth more than gold and diamonds!
     
  6. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran
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    romano schwabel
    sorry, don´t know, but I would use newer/other connectors and fix it so

    the whole forum I would say ;)
     
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  7. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

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  8. E_Man

    E_Man Formula Junior

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    Just so we're clear, you went 14 years and 36,000 miles between major services?
     
  9. ttforcefed

    ttforcefed F1 World Champ
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    He did. Ferraris dont melt in the rain either!!!


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  10. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
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    14 years between majors... kudos for you. I went 10 years... :)
     
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  11. E_Man

    E_Man Formula Junior

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    Driving a car in the rain and going 36k miles without a major service is hardly a comparison. I am thrilled to hear a guy actually uses his car this much and can go this long between services!
     
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  12. ttforcefed

    ttforcefed F1 World Champ
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    Ummm i wasn’t being literal lol
     
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  13. JIMBO

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    Yes, 36,645 miles between majors to be exact. You are selling me on the gold connector kit...
     
  14. JIMBO

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    Once I get the engine out, I'll see what else crumbles before making a decision on the Gold Connector kit for $2362.70. I can certainly make some new weathertight connections with modern fittings.
     
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  15. JIMBO

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  16. JIMBO

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    Sorry for the double images, they were OK in the preview.
     
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  17. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
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    If I was buying a Testarossa and saw non OEM electrical connections, the first word to come in mind would be “hack”.

    Regardless of the installation quality.

    Nothing worse in a used car than a hacked electrical system.

    If Dave can find them.... so can you.

    Here is a good place to start. Send ‘em a pic and ask for help!

    https://www.digikey.com/
     
  18. Natkingcolebasket69

    Rossa Subscribed

    I would do a great major because I imagine the car, inspire High miles is worth a lot more than when u bought it;)


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  19. JIMBO

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    I got the car in 2000, I believe, with 11,000 miles on the odometer. I bought it from a doctor who was getting divorced and needed to sell it for cash before his wife got out of rehab the following week. I remember him saying "either she gets half or you get half". That got my attention. He had bought it less than one year before from Shelton Ferrari in Ft Lauderdale and put just over 1000 miles on it. He had insisted on a '94 and the dealer did the major service before delivery. I think he paid just over $150K. I got it for $80K. I spoke to the salesman who sold him the car and he offered me $120,000 on the spot so I figured I couldn't get hurt.
    Some of the updates since new are chrome 512TR wheels, converting the rear to a round-tail light 512M style (I just think it looks better and all the 512TR parts are still here and can be put back), replacing pre-cats and cats with straight pipes (and disconnecting thermocouple ECU's), new custom headlights with harness and relays to take the high current circuit away from the steering column stalk, Dave Helms fuse box, new front AC fans, replacing all lights with LEDs', modified shift gate, replace dash pad and rewire dash, front and rear radar detectors with front "jammer" (I don't think it really works), new window lift assemblies, new door moldings, re-dye interior, remove interior and coat entire floor with rust-proof paint and install new sound deadener, new stereo with I-pod hook up (pre blue tooth), new starter, alternator, ac compressor, expansion valve, evaporator motor, dryer and so on.
    It really is a pleasure to drive, although I'm sure the purists would consider me a heretic. C'est la vie.
     
  20. JIMBO

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    Remove asbestos heat shield on transaxle (10 mm nuts x 3 with washers)
    Next, remove coolant overflow tank. Four 10 mm acorn nuts with washers. Be careful not to lose the spacers sitting in the rubber grommets). There are two hoses, a large one on the bottom and the smaller overflow hose. Disconnect and remove tank and set aside. Remove starter. One plastic connector, one large wire from battery (? 15 mm) and 13 mm long bolts x 3. Reassemble hardware and set aside. You should be looking like photo 2 Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  21. JIMBO

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    Now is a good time to remove hood. Mark hinge area for reassembly. Put a towel between edge of hood and roof. Pop the spade electrical connectors off the bottom of the hood struts (one each side). Find 2 strong friends and have them hold hood while you remove the 6 mm allen bolts (2 each side), and then pry out the retaining spring on the bottom of the struts and pop them off. Place hood in safe area. Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  22. JIMBO

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    Remove the black cover piece at the front of the engine bay under the rear window. Four 10 mm allen bolts. Reassemble and place with hood.
     
  23. JIMBO

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    Remove the coil packs (leave all plug wires alone) and use a tie to secure them to the fuel rails so they are out of the way. Four 10 mm bolts each side. Remove the two multi-connectors attached to coils Image Unavailable, Please Login and bring those wires to the rear of the car.
     
  24. JIMBO

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    On the rear of the engine are two electrical cables on the left and one on the right with a vacuum hose. Disconnect, feed through any grommets and lay on rear of engine. One electrical connection on each side goes to the exhaust thermocouple ECU. Since I took out my cats, I don't need the thermocouple, so my ECU's were previously disconnected and the connection taped. If you just remove the thermocouple, you will get a CEL (very bad). Here you see the two cables from the coils as well.
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  25. JIMBO

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