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94 512TR 66,000 mile major

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by JIMBO, Sep 9, 2019.

  1. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    Oct 31, 2003
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    The tensioner 19 mm bolts were previously torqued to 55 NM and the 13 mm tensioner body to block 13 mm nuts torqued to 25 NM. All 12 new spark plugs were gapped to 0.81 mm, threads lightly coated with anti-seize and installed to 16 NM torque.
    Each cam was held tightly with a vice grip by a strong assistant and the 19 mm cam pulley bolts torqued to 98 NM.
    The crank pulley 36 mm bolt was cleaned, given a light coat of hylomar on the threads to prevent any possible oil seepage, and torqued to 220 NM while the same able-bodied assistant held the flywheel from turning with a large screwdriver.
    I made 2 complete clockwise turns of the crank and checked all timing and TDC marks. All remained spot on. Witness marks were placed on all torqued fasteners.
    Belts, water pump, valves and gross timing are done. It sure looks pretty.
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  3. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    It was then time for a break, so I went fishing.
    I caught this little guy first cast. I took that as a sign that the universe was pleased.
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  4. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    this is normal that this mark is ok
    but the marks on the camshafts are not exactly
     
  5. JIMBO

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    Yes, Turbo-Joe, you are correct, but this is not a track or competition car. As long as I have the same performance as before, I am more than satisfied.
     
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  6. JIMBO

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    I am thinking about getting new, more efficient radiators, given that I live in a tropical climate (Florida). Clyde Romero has a source in NY for exact replacements, but the price tag is kinda high. Any thoughts? Christmas IS less than 2 months away...
     
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  8. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    a radiator shop near to me rebuilt the original radiators. but they put in a net with 1 more water pipe row ( right word? ) and never had problems until then at my competition.
    I also installed on both radiators top and buttom temperature sensors and in idle when the engine has operating temperature the temperature top is about 97°C and buttom only 79°C, when the fans are running then only 65°C

    so try to find a radiatorshop near to you who can do the same
     
  9. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
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    No need for a friend with vice grips.... this works well. Cheap and easy.

    Cams are very hard... and brittle. Vice grips may cause damage.


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  10. JIMBO

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    Vincenzo:
    I like that tool. I wish I had it a few days ago.
     
  11. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

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  13. jjeffries

    jjeffries Karting

    Sep 4, 2012
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    What a thread. I’d been away from FChat for a few weeks so just had the pleasure of reading this from stem to stern.

    The surgeon who operated on my back in 2006 was also a gear-head but he was into old Dodge Power Wagons and ex military stuff. He did good work cleaning-up my herniated L4/5 and L5/S1 discs!

    Thank you very much for taking the time and effort to share all of this. John
     
  14. JIMBO

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    Glad someone is enjoying it. The technical stuff is done, now much cleaning, replacing hoses, etc. I decided to go with some custom aluminum radiators that Clyde Romero says work way better (Merry Christmas to me). So, out will come the oil sump and the oil cooler. And the fuel pumps are still on the list. What have I gotten myself into - retirement is supposed to be relaxing.
     
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  15. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    those aluminum radiators have top and buttom plastic cases/covers and also in- and outlet for the hoses and the aluminum is bended around this plastic?
    or are the top and buttom cases/covers also aluminum and welded to the net? then I would prefer those
    pictures would be great
     
  16. JIMBO

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    They should arrive next week or so. They are all welded aluminum.
     
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  17. JIMBO

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    OK, back to the thread.
    I needed to change all the coolant hoses, so I elected to remove the intake manifolds one at a time. I began with the LH manifold.
    First, remove the ten 13 mm intake manifold to block nuts and washers. On the front nut is the holder for the alternator cooling hose. The flat black wiring harness protector is attached to 3 of the bolts. The square vacuum thingie is held on by the inner nut of the #12 runner. On the back of the #10 intake runner is a 10 mm bolt that holds the bracket and the round electrical connector for the fuel injector rail. Remove. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  18. JIMBO

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  19. JIMBO

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  20. JIMBO

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    There are two small vacuum lines that just pull off (or cut if replacing).
    Now remove the throttle linkage. There are tiny cotter pins (one on each arm). Remove and save. Now, take a stubby phillips head screwdriver and back out the screw at the end of each arm until loose. The linkage can now be dis-articulated (taken apart). Replace cotter pins.
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  21. JIMBO

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    Now, if I haven't forgotten anything, you can lift off the intake. Place it aside. You should see something like this:
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    Notice how bloated the short connector coolant hose has become. I cleaned the right side with some Brake-Klean. Much more cleaning to come. Be sure to stuff rags in the intake ports, as they are strong magnets and easily swallow small pieces of garbage
     
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  22. JIMBO

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    Now for cleaning. In the photo above, note the two wires grounded to the block. Remove same (10 and 8 mm I think). There are also two wiring harness clamps that mount to the studs on the rod bolt covers (my name). 10 mm, remove clamps and replace nuts. Now you can move the wiring harness out of the way. I also removed the coolant fitting (three 10 mm nuts) to get better access. Stuff that hole with a rag.

    Now it's just a matter of elbow grease. I used spray Brake Klean and a brass brush and a lot of towels. A small shop vac also helps. I was able to get the aluminum clean, but in areas it was stained and looked nasty.
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  23. JIMBO

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  24. JIMBO

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    #171 JIMBO, Nov 6, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2019
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  25. JIMBO

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  26. JIMBO

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    Clean and reconnect the wiring harness clamps and the two grounds.
    Now is a good time to replace the coolant hoses (while the intake is off). Begin by replacing the coolant fitting and the three 10 mm nuts. Take out rag first. I used Loctite 518 flange sealant to ensure a no-leak fit.
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    Clean aluminum coolant pipe (with temperature sensor)
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    Cut new hose to fit and reassemble. I preferred to use a better grade of clamp that gives even pressure around the hose without cutting into the rubber. Clyde Romero was kind enough to send me some of his extra hose, but you can get this at any Goodyear hose store. No little horses on the box, though. Sorry. Look how nasty the old hose had become after 25 years and 66,000 miles.
    Once assembled, connect aluminum pipe to coolant fitting (much easier with intake off). I also coated the fittings with some Hylomar just for extra no-leak assurance.

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  27. JIMBO

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  28. JIMBO

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    Now clean and replace intake manifold. The ten 13 mm nuts and washers are torqued to 25 NM. Remember to replace the various bit and bobs we removed earlier that are also secured by the intake nuts (wiring harness clamp in rear, the black metal wiring harness cover (I forgot to mention that earlier), the ring that holds the alternator air duct, the square vacuum thingie, etc).
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    I like to clean all mating surfaces with scotch brite pads and then use a little Loctite 518 on both sides of the gaskets.

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