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94 512TR 66,000 mile major

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by JIMBO, Sep 9, 2019.

  1. JIMBO

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    The O2 sensor wires are held on by 13 mm nuts. Remove same. Also remove engine ground strap on the rear lower cross member. Remove O2 sensors if these will be replaced if they are easily accessible. Generally they are a pain to remove and are easier to get out with exhaust disassembled. Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  2. JIMBO

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    Next comes the exhaust. I removed my catalytic convertors 55,000 miles ago and replaced them with straight pipes, and I have a Tubi, so you may have to wing some of this.
    First, take off the rear lower valance (14 10 mm bolts and washers). A 1/4 inch cordless impact driver comes in very handy here. Removing the valance will save you considerable headaches. Trust me, I'm a doctor. A small piece of plastic trim comes with it. Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Set this aside with the hood and back panel. You should be seeing something like this:
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  3. JIMBO

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    OK, enough for now. Next we tackle the exhaust. Many bad words will be said, many knuckles bruised. Adult beverages help.
     
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  4. Auraraptor

    Auraraptor F1 World Champ
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    Neat to watch this unfold.

    Curious, do you not have a permanent check engine light w a straight pipe?
     
  5. Natkingcolebasket69

    Rossa Subscribed

    Oh so it’s not an M!


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  6. Auraraptor

    Auraraptor F1 World Champ
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    ^ That quote actually answers my question too... I did not realize you could do that without seriously compromising the airflow mix/etc with the ECUs at all
     
  7. tf308

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    No...they are standard gold plated jpt (junior power timer) connectors. 28 cents each the last time I checked


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  8. JIMBO

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    Perhaps now is the time for a disclaimer. I am NOT a mechanic. I was an ER Physician for 40 years and retired in July of 2018. Retirement good. I highly recommend it. I like to think I have above average mechanical skills. I built 2 show quality 1970 GTO Judge convertibles from the ground up (one modified, one stock) and was a Pontiac man until the 512TR fell into my lap. I can MIG and TIG and handle electrical work and body work and paint. I know some Ferrari stuff and I'm good at following directions, but feel free to call me out on any glaring or subtle errors in this thread.
    I have done one previous major on this car and it ran flawlessly for 36,000 miles, and I've assisted in 2 other TR majors, but this is a hobby, not a job. I go slow.

    Before starting on the exhaust, I decided to drain the fluids. Time to get dirty.

    First I drained the trans fluid. The drain plug is really big and required an adjustable wrench. Then out comes the oil plug, followed by the drain in the bottom of the oil reservoir.
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    Oil Dry and shop towels will be your friends. Replace plugs. Then remove two engine oil hoses. Again, a real big adjustable wrench will be your friend.
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    Now comes the coolant. From under the car, first remove the drain plugs at the bottom middle of each radiator. They are rubber and have a slot in the middle. A stubby blade screwdriver does the trick. There are two coolant hoses that go between the gas tanks up to the front of the car for the heater. Unplug those bad boys too. On top of the engine the two largest coolant hoses need to come off. The "L" shaped hose from the water pump will come out when the engine is removed. Loosening the clamps is enough for now.
    A non-Ferrari tool will help greatly with clean-up:
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  9. JIMBO

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  10. JIMBO

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    The exhaust removal may vary. I have test pipes in place of the cats and a Tubi. The test pipes come out first (17 mm bolts with 15 mm nuts), then the pre-cats (same with 15 mm bolts to exhaust manifolds).
    The muffler (Tubi) comes out next, by unbolting the 17 MM bolts and nuts that hold it to the springy shock absorber mounts. Lift up and then remove downward.
    To get the exhaust manifold out, first remove the axle half-shafts (8 mm allen bolts). To prevent the wheels from turning, a soft piece of wood jammed between the spokes works well. I got two bolts out at a time, then re-positioned the wheel and wood.
    The exhaust manifolds are brutal to remove. There are 24 13 mm nuts in all, but some are nearly inaccessible by human hands. The cordless impact gun, a variety of extensions and articulated connections are needed, along with a simple box wrench at times. Re-assembly will be worse.
    I have sent the entire exhaust system out to be ceramic coated and hopefully reduce underhood heat.
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    Now you should be looking like this (exhaust manifolds still in place in this photo) Image Unavailable, Please Login :
     
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  11. JIMBO

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    Oh crap, I forgot to mention disconnecting the battery before everything. My bad.
     
  12. JIMBO

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    Back up top I disconnected and plugged my AC lines (I'm going to re-charge system anyway), but you can remove the compressor and set it to the side. Remove the throttle cable by manually moving the throttle bracket to make slack in the line and then the cable will slide out. Mark the position of the two 8 mm nuts with tape, and then remove nuts and slide entire cable out toward the front of the car until it is free of the rubber mount (grommet). Replace the two 8 mm jam nuts.
    Remove the flexible pipe that cools the alternator (it slides out of the metal positioning ring) and set to the side.
     
  13. JIMBO

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    Lastly, disconnect the ECU cables.
    Remove the panel behind the seats, exposing the ecu's. There is a metal bracket on the top of the main ecu harness that pulls up and unlocks the connector. There is a smaller connector that requires sliding outward a bright yellow plastic piece that locks it in place. And finally the smallest connector pulls apart after lifting the tab. Carefully slide each cable out through the firewall into the engine compartment. This may take some effort and manipulation. Immediately cover these connectors to prevent any contamination.
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    OK, good job, I think everything is properly disconnected.
     
  14. JIMBO

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    I use a 1" braided rope to pull the engine. It's cheap, readily available and does not scratch. I loop the rope around each of the 4 motor mounts and then up over the engine, taking care not to bend or compress any vital structures when the rope gets tight. Once the rope is in place, I remove the 4 motor mount retaining bolts (15/16 wrench on top, 24 mm socket on bottom, big impact gun).
    Then I check and recheck that everything has been disconnected, covered and p[laced out of harms way. Next, bring in the engine hoist. I raise the rear of the engine first, which makes removal of the "L" shaped coolant hose easier. Once the rear of the gearbox clears the rear cross member, start moving the engine to the rear. If all has gone well, it's up and out from here.
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    Have an adult beverage or two at this point.


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  15. tvu

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    Thanks for sharing JIMBO. Good to see you around.
     
  16. JIMBO

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    An unexpected death of a friend put engine service on hold, but I did manage to get her washed. A piece of shop towel inside a rubber glove was perfect to jam into the exhaust ports, and various other plugs and caps sealed off hoses and orifices, while plastic bags held the coils (make sure to turn the bags so the opening faces down before washing).
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  17. JIMBO

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  18. JIMBO

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  19. JIMBO

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  20. JIMBO

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  21. Clyde Romero

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    Sep 6, 2019
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    Clarence Romero
    My name is clyde romero( people on the Ferrari list know me well)
    I am new to this forum
    I own a 93 512 TR with 109k plus miles on it
    I’ve done all my own services, seen it all trust me
    Never had any issues with water pumps etc
    I replaced the original motor at 95 k because the exhaust valves were eating into the head
    If I can assist you anyway possible let me know
    I have owned this 512 TR since 1996, bought it with 10 k on it and have gone though it entirely
    Replaced the steering rack at 88k
    And all the shocks and bushings at 90k
    Replaced the front rotors at 90k rears are still ok
    No leaks on my car whatsoever
    Stay in touch and good luck with your service
    I have pictures I can share with you showing the engine replacement I did if you want
     
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  22. ttforcefed

    ttforcefed F1 World Champ
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    welcome!
     
  23. Clyde Romero

    Clyde Romero Formula Junior

    Sep 6, 2019
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    a couple of quick notes on what I’ve seen in you pictures
    Curious why you didn’t disconnect the ignition modules from the engine?
    When I do mine they come completely out it gives you more side clearance when removing the motor
    What kind of coolant hoses are you going to replace the ones already in the car?
    The ones that catch the most heat are the ones underneath the intake runners
    Also while I am thinking about it I have a complete shim kit for the valves if you need it
    Just pay the shipping both way
    I also have the insane tool that you will need as well, that tool is bordering on worthless at times
    Speaking of valves it’s been my experience that they don’t even move until around 75k
    Then it’s the exhaust that move the most
    Check your fuel vent lines as well for deterioration
    And please replace the 2 thermostats!
    Don’t do what I did and fail to do this and have a one go south and have to replace them while the motor is in the car
    That’s prison work!
    It’s a 8 hours job because most of it is done blind!
    With regards to the water pump assembly if it’s not leaking don’t mess with it
    I’ve never seen a carbon seal go bad and what ever you do don’t pressure test the system
    That will induce a failure in the seal, I’ve seen it trust me
    Also your EGR valves will most likely need to be replaced you can get them at any NAPA store it’s a GM part
    Put an asbestos sheath around your clutch line it will prevent the fluid from vapor lock back there where the heat is Chernobyl hot!
    That’s it for now
    If I don’t here back from you I will stay cold mike and wait to hear from you
    Clyde
     
  24. Clyde Romero

    Clyde Romero Formula Junior

    Sep 6, 2019
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    Clarence Romero
    One more thing
    I like your 1” rope harness
    Going to steel that idea from you
    Very cool I used chains but I like the rope thing
    Smart never thought of it
    Also I put a moving blanket over the roof to cover the rear window just in case !
    Later
     

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