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94 512TR 66,000 mile major

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by JIMBO, Sep 9, 2019.

  1. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    Oct 31, 2003
    1,079
    Bradenton, Florida
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    Jim DeRespino
  2. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,079
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  3. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,079
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  4. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    Oct 31, 2003
    1,079
    Bradenton, Florida
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    Jim DeRespino
    I started by installing the left (driver's side) radiator. With the wheel off and the wheel well cover removed, installation is straight forward. Gently move the radiator into place and begin by installing the two 17 mm bolts with large flat washers from beneath the frame. Don't tighten yet. I used Loctite) Then move the radiator up against the rubber shroud , place the upper bracket over the insulated studs on the radiator and thread the two 10 mm bolts, flat and split washers through the bracket and into the two cage nuts in the frame. Install the two 10 mm nuts and washers onto the studs (or use a nylon lock washer and flat washer). Hold the radiator in best position against the shroud and tighten all 10 mm fasteners. Connect temperature sender to the wiring harness. Make sure the drain plug is in place and closed. Fully tighten the 17 mm bottom bolts.
    In my case I installed new custom aluminum radiators from Wizard cooling. They are identical in size to the original radiators but much more efficient. And way prettier.
    The Wizard radiators also come with a petcock instead of the drain plug.

    Insulated (vibration dampening) studs
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    Upper bracket
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    Temperature sending unit connected to harness
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    Upper bracket in place
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    Lower 17 mm bolts in place with large washers (from below)
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    Gorgeous Wizard radiator in place
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    View from engine compartment
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  5. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Once the radiator is in and secure, start putting the aluminum coolant pipes and 1 3/8" hoses together one by one. A little Magic lube works wonders.
    In order for the hoses that go from the engine to the pipes to line up, these aluminum pipes and the thermostat housing need to be in the same position relative to the centerline of the car as when they came out. I did not make any alignment marks when I removed the pipes, but luckily the brass bleeder bolt on the top of the thermostat housing had made a perfect indentation in the soft foil insulation covering the firewall. I got lucky. Make some kind of reference mark before you remove everything.
    After that it's simply a matter of recreating the original pipe layout.
    You will need a total of ten 3" pieces of the 1 3/8" coolant hose
    There are two large hose clamps that suspend the upper pipes and keep them tight on the firewall. Don't attach these until the end so that you have some room to move the whole assembly when making the final attachment to the RH radiator.
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  6. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Once the radiators and coolant pipes are done, install the fans on the radiators. There are two fixed studs and two studs on brackets which bolt to the radiator and in turn attach the fan. As always, 10 mm fasteners are used throughout. Once in place, connect the fan electrical harness.
    I chose to get new SPAL fans to match my new radiators. I could have obtained fans that pull more air, but with that also comes increased amp draw and I did not want to tax the already suspect 512TR electrical system.
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  7. JIMBO

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    There are two other holes on the outer flange of the LH radiator. These are used to secure the weather-tech style vacuum hose. Two 10 mm bolts go through the flange and are bolted down with 10 mm nuts, then the hose clamps fastened over the studs with more 10 mm nuts.
    Then attach the plastic hose that goes from the fuel filler door to the fuel tank. There are rubber gaskets that fit between the plastic and the metal. Tighten with the weirdest hose clamps ever invented.
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  8. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    Oct 31, 2003
    1,079
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  9. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
    1,079
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    Jim DeRespino
    Another non-stock but logical item on my car is actually a part off the inner fender of my 1970 Pontiac GTO Judge. It is used to keep road debris off the upper control arm and out of the engine compartment and is called an "Inner Fenderwell A-Arm Seal" $25 for a pair. I use it to keep road debris out of the engine compartment. Not pretty, but functional and I had them lying around. Don't tell Shamile.
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  10. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    The top of the rear shocks fill up with road debris!
     
  11. JIMBO

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    Mine don't any more.:)
     
  12. JIMBO

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    I usually shy away from cheap stuff from Harbor Freight. You get what you pay for. I bought this bead blast cabinet from TIP Industries in Ohio 32 years ago and it still performs flawlessly. The Harbor Freight cabinet does not have a foot pedal or a dust vacuum.
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  13. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,685
    yeah... the HF version only works ‘adequately’. My shop vac hooks up to the back. As rarely as I use it - it adds value.

    why did you choose paint instead of blasting?
     
  14. JIMBO

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    I used the bead blaster to strip the paint, then primer and topcoat.
     
  15. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Well, work on the car took an unexpected one month hiatus due to COVID-19 and getting my 90 year old Dad moved into an independent living facility (just in time, as it turned out). Such is the privilege of working on your own car. Now, where were we..

    Getting the RH radiator connected to the cooling pipes turned into quite a pain in the rear. There is no room to maneuver the radiator and very little wiggle room between the pieces of aluminum pipe. I finally had to slide on piece of hose all the way over the end of the pipe, bring both pipes into alignment and then slide the hose into final position. A lot of lubricant helped. I removed the clamps on the fuel tank vent system to gain some access.
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  16. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Jim DeRespino
  17. JIMBO

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    Don't forget to re-attach the 2 clamps that hold the upper pipes to the firewall (washers and 10 mm nylon lock nuts) as well as the clamps for the fuel tank vent system (if removed). Double check that all coolant hose clamps are tight. Don't forget to replace the oil radiator support.
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  18. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    Oct 31, 2003
    1,079
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  19. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    Oct 31, 2003
    1,079
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  20. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    Oct 31, 2003
    1,079
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  21. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    Oct 31, 2003
    1,079
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  22. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    The older Bosch fuel filters had larger flanges on the bottom. On the newer units the upper and lower flanges are identical. Just FYI.
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  23. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,685
    Hmmm.... might want to watch that new style connection closely for leaks upon startup.
     
  24. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran
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    romano schwabel
    why you use only for the heating the silicone hoses and not all over?
     
  25. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    I'll have a lot of connections to watch for leaks. That's IF it starts up.
     

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