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94 512TR 66,000 mile major

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by JIMBO, Sep 9, 2019.

  1. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    So now you have the grill assembly out. How does it come apart? Nothing in the parts book or the repair manual helped. I took it to my good friend Dino Sanzogni (a real Ferrari mechanic) and he helped me figure it out. Is it logical? Of course not, it's a ferrari.
    On the bottom of the vertical black piece will be a rubber gasket covering part of a crescent shaped piece of aluminum. Remove and save the rubber piece. The crescent-shaped piece is held in by two 3 mm allen screws. Remove the screws. Now go to the top of the black piece and carefully remove yet another rubber gasket. Look into the opening and you will see a small rod. This holds all the strakes in the black piece. You have to carefully tap down the rod with a brass punch. Doing this will push out the crescent shaped piece of aluminum, after which you can grab the rod with a pliers and pull it out from the bottom. The bottom end has a point. Once the rod is out, carefully tap the strakes out of the slots in the black vertical piece and voila! Disassembly complete. Could they make this any more complicated?
    This sounds confusing, but follow the re-assembly photos and it will all make sense.

    Next I took the black piece and cleaned it off in the bead blast cabinet, then a quick wipe with grease and wax remover, a coat of filler-primer and the final coat with Eastwood's "Underhood Black", which is a 60 degree gloss (semi-gloss) black paint that is an EXACT match for all the semi-gloss black on this car. That can of paint was probably 15 years old and still good. Eastwood products are awesome. Set this piece aside. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  2. JIMBO

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    #402 JIMBO, Feb 23, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2020
    The individual strakes are riveted to the rear of the grill assembly. One of my strakes had broken here, but a small tab was still riveted on. The rivet was drilled out and the small tab bead blasted in preparation for welding. The corresponding area on the strake was masked and bead blasted and both pieces prepped with aluminum welding cleaner. I practiced TIG welding similar thickness scrap aluminum before attempting this weld and my welds were beautiful. Ferrari aluminum must be some weird alloy, because my welds on the strake were awful. Perhaps someone on the forum with welding experience can comment. After some grinding the weld was acceptable. This area is completely hidden, so appearance is not a concern. Still, I wanted it to look nice, but it was not worth a lot of effort.
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  3. JIMBO

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    Next the area was coated with primer/filler and sanded with 400 grit, recoated and sanded with 600 grit. I tried air brushing some old Rosso Corsa touch-up paint that I had laying around, but it was too old and did not dry. I removed that with lacquer thinner and used some GM torch red Testor's spray paint that my friend Wolfie had used on his Boxer and that worked well. The color match was very close, and, like I said before, this area cannot be seen at all when the assembly is installed. Also remember this is 25 year old paint, and the color fades with time, so even new Rosso Corsa paint will not match exactly. Once dry the area was unmasked and polished. I am very happy with the result.
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  4. JIMBO

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  5. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Jim DeRespino
  6. JIMBO

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    Now, look into the top of the black piece and you should see the hole in the tab of the first strake. Clean and grease the metal rod and insert it (pointed end going down) into the hole of the first strake. Theoretically, if everything is lined up, this rod should pass through the same hole in all the strakes. With gentle tapping, mine went through first time. Lucky. Look in the bottom and you should see the pointed end of the rod.
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  7. JIMBO

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  8. JIMBO

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  9. JIMBO

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    The grill assembly goes in from the door jamb side. Open the door and gently slide the whole assembly rearward. Make sure the two rubber pieces are still in place. Some taps with your hand may be needed.
    When it looks like everything is lined up, first insert the bottom 4 mm allen bolt. It has it's own small rubber gasket. When this begins to thread, start the 5 mm allen screw at the top of the black piece. There are two more 5 mm allen screws right there at the door jamb and the fourth one at the back toward the quarter panel. Make sure all screws are started before tightening any of them. Small arms are a bonus for reaching through the strakes to get to the rear bolt (if the radiator is out, it's easy to access from the rear).
    Also, first clean the area where the grill assembly will be inserted. Some wax is a good idea (it will never be accessible again).

    Bottom 4 mm allen screw and rubber gaskets (to show assembly):
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    Attachments for two front 5 mm screws and bottom hole for 4 mm screw and gaskets:
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    Rear attachment point (seen from rear with radiator out):
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    Top front attachment point:
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    Inserting bottom 4 mm allen screw (very tedious):
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    Top 5 mm screw:
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    Two front 5 mm screws inserted:
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  10. JIMBO

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  11. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    Just goes to prove these cars were hand built!
     
  12. JIMBO

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    Re-install the shift linkage rod. I marked everything before I took it out and noted how many revolutions I had to back off the rear lock nut to the end of the threads (8 full turns). The front lock nut was left in original position. First I screw the rod on up to the front lock nut and tighten (making sure witness marks line up). I then advance the rear lock nut 8 full turns and I know how far to advance the threads. When the witnes marks again line up, I am sre I am in the same position as when the linkage was removed.

    rear nut at end of threads
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    rear nut advanced 8 full turns
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    back to original position, all nuts tight and witness marks lined up
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  13. JIMBO

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    The fuel tanks are done, so time to button things up. Clean up the bottom pans if needed and reinstall with nine 10 mm bolts, lock washers and flat washers on each side. Don't forget to connect the white fuel tank sender harness. Make sure the bottom fuel tank drain plugs are tight. I used some red Loc Image Unavailable, Please Login tite on all the threads for good measure.
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  14. JIMBO

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  15. JIMBO

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    Next install the alternator. The large (17 mm) pivot bolt has a bushing. Make sure the bushing and bolt are clean and that the bushing slides easily into the bolt mounting hole with the lock washer and flat washer in place. A little white lithium grease keeps everything sliding freely. Attach the adjusting arm linkage with the 15 mm lock nut and washer. Make sure the terminals in the green round electrical connector are clean (I added some dielectric grease) and then push on the green round electrical connector until it clicks. Next attach the battery cable to the large lug, again making sure all surfaces are bright and free of corrosion. The nut that hols on the battery cable takes a 14 mm wrench. This is the only 14 mm fastener I have found on this car. There is also a lock (split) washer. The white plastic protective cap slips onto the cable. I used a tie wrap for added security. Slide on new belt and snug it up (we will tighten later). Make sure everything lines up.



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  16. JIMBO

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    #416 JIMBO, Feb 24, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2020
    On to the radiators and coolant lines.
    There are four 10 mm nuts (with washers) and two 13 (?) mm bolts that hold the thermostat housing together. They were rusted, so first the threads were cleaned and then coated with some anti-seize. The housing was then cleaned in the solvent tank and sprayed with Eastwood's Alumablast paint to make it look nice. All pieces of aluminum tubing were likewise cleaned with mineral spirits and a scotch brite pad. I used a little gasket maker on the thermostat housing, but in fact the rubber gaskets should prevent any leakage. Make sure the rubber gaskets are fully seated in the housing. I used a little Magic Lube to ease them in.
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  17. JIMBO

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  18. JIMBO

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    See that brass bolt in the bottom piece of the housing? It has a slit in the side like it's a pressure relief mechanism, but I am unsure of its exact purpose. I cleaned it and put it back. With all these components, we are dealing with aluminum, so don't go crazy with applying torque.

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  19. JIMBO

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  20. Veedub00

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    Brass bolt is a bleeder screw I believe.
     
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  21. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran
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    before you put the thermostat housing with the thermostats in the car I would test the thermostats in water and heat this to see at what temperature those will open
     
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  22. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
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  23. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    I agree with this. I removed my thermostats and tested them on stove with thermometer. They were closed cold and opened correctly, but did not close completely when cooled down. On the hi-way before, water temp would drop low.
     
  24. ago car nut

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    Jimbo, more info on hi torque starter? Looks like aftermarket generic?
     
  25. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
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    Just to add...

    The slit allows air to bleed past the threads with ONLY a partially unthreaded bolt. If you remove the bolt during your bleeding efforts you will be cursing as you try to find the dropped bolt/washer AND as you try to get it threaded back into the hole.

    Guess how I know that!

     
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