News

94 512TR 66,000 mile major

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by JIMBO, Sep 9, 2019.

  1. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    OK, time to put this part of the major service back together. Here is what it looks like now. The blue hose with the tape replaces the red hose and connects directly to the AC/Heater unit:
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    There is enough room for the silicone hose to make the turn to the bottom fitting on the solenoid, but not enough room to also fit the reducer, so some form of elbow is needed. I decided to use the shortened original tubing elbow. I attached the new blue silicone hose to the reducer and then the reducer to the hose elbow with Oetiker clamps. Remember the universal big and small Oetiker clamp kit I obtained for the CV boots? With a little trimming, the little clamps fit the bill nicely. The men at the hose shop said these apply more concentric force and were the best with silicone hoses. The first photo shows the bottom fitting of the solenoid facing toward the front of the car..
    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  2. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    It took some blind maneuvering to get the upper hose on the AC/Heater fitting but I did it. It took some Shamile-like wrenching on my back to tighten the hose clamp, but I got it done.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login


    I then attached the hose elbow to the bottom solenoid fitting. Hoses done. This is a view looking down at the connection. Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  3. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    Next, replace (or just tighten) the two 10 mm lock nuts and washers on the heater solenoid. Make sure the electrical connection is still tight.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  4. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    Next we have to re-attach the metal bracket with the electrical connectors:
    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    The cloth tape wrapping on the wire bundles was in a poor state of repair, so I removed it and re-wrapped the bundles. Did it make the car more efficient? No.
    Did it make the car prettier? No, they are not seen. This is one of the many details you fix on your own vehicle that perhaps a service technician would ignore. It just makes me feel better. I used blue electrician's tape because, well, I had a roll of it laying around.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Then place the bracket over the studs and attach with washers and the ubiquitous two 10 mm lock nuts.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Remember to pull up the white and yellow plastic retainers before attaching the connectors. Push down to lock in place. Starting to look better.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  5. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  6. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    Now clean up the seat belt ECU bracket, place it over the studs and attach with three 10 mm lock nuts and washers. Follow by attaching the wiring harnesses.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Notice I switched the position of the two ECUs. They are the same part. My driver's side seat belt mouse is not moving, so I wanted to make sure there was not a problem with the ECU (I don't think so). If the ECU is bad, the driver's side belt will move and now the passenger belt won't.
    The whole area looks much neater.
     
  7. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    Now re-attach the foot plate with the four chrome phillips head screws. I also tidied up the tunnel wires with some tie wraps.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

    From this view I see the new blue silicone heater hose, so I could put a shut-off valve in line like Ago Car Nut and be able to reach it without taking anything apart.
    Man, am I glad that part's done. Just reverse the steps to put back the tunnel and the other trim pieces. An awl will help you locate the old screw holes.
     
    ago car nut likes this.
  8. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    Next on to reinstalling the fuel system. The rebuilt fuel pumps only fit into the tank one way. The off-center pump is orientated toward the front of the tank. The electrical connection is on the left, looking at the tank from the rear. The flat green gasket fits between the tank and the plastic top of the pump assembly. I used a bit of "magic lube" to keep it in place. You will have to wiggle the pump assembly to get it into the opening. I found it easier to get the pump into the tank and then slip the green rubber gasket over the black plastic top flange.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  9. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    Once in the tank you will have to hold the top plastic flange down against the green gasket while threading the ring nut into place. I used some anti-seize on the threads to help out the next guy who has to take it apart. I could thread it on a little by hand, but mostly I used a small hammer and a punch. Be careful not to cross thread this nut. When done, the nut should be level with the surface. Be gentle. Repeat for tank 2.
    In photo 3, notice there are two openings for the fuel hoses. The opening on the left has a white ring at the base. This is the outflow hose and connects to the bottom of the fuel filter.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  10. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  11. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  12. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    Getting the tanks into the car is a challenge and much easier with another pair of hands. I wiggled the passenger side tank in first and then used one of the bottom brackets to keep it from falling down. This gave me enough room to then hook up the fuel hoses (10 mm nut and washer) and the electrical connection (which I cleaned with a brass brush and electrical spray cleaner). I then pushed the tank further into position and attached the two bottom braces. One side attaches to the studs on the undercarriage, the other connects to the large threaded rod hanging down from the strap (13 mm lock nut). Make sure the straps fit into the channels on the back surface of the fuel tanks.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  13. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    The braces on the bottom of the tanks are specific for the right or left tank. They angle slightly away from center and the little flange that holds a cage nut faces away from center.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  14. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    #389 JIMBO, Feb 6, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2020
    Next it's time to connect the two large hoses that connect the two tanks. The smaller hose fits through a hole in the frame. Keep the tanks loose because they will have to move to get the hoses attached. Cut the new hoses to the same length as the old ones (duh).

    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  15. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Apr 6, 2008
    5,737
    southwest germany
    Full Name:
    romano schwabel
    thank you jimbo for those detailed instructions and photos :)
    this will help here a lot of people not knowing if to start working on their own cars or not. it is all no magic to do

    be carefull with the big hose connecting the 2 tanks - has to be fuel resistant of course
     
  16. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    Now you have to wiggle the driver's side tank in place. Push both thanks as far away from center as they go and attach the hoses to the second tank. An assistant comes in real handy. Then push both tanks toward each other to fully seat the hoses. Make sure to connect the braided fuel hoses and the electrical connection to the fuel pump. When all hoses are fully seated, tighten the clamps. Now push both tanks fully upwards and attach both bottom braces. A square metal bracket fits over the two studs and between the brace and the frame, while a second, black rectangular bracket fits between the bottom of the brace and the two 10 mm nuts.
    Fully snug up the tank by tightening the 13 mm lock nut on the stud attached to the strap. Connect the electrical connection to the fuel gauge under the passenger side tank. Fully tighten the two drain plugs in the bottom of the tanks.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  17. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    With both tanks secured, it's time to reconnect the vent hoses. These are corrugated plastic with rubber sleeves in the ends. They go on easily and are fastened with the silly looking wire clamps. Also re-attach the plastic large pipe that connects the fuel filler to the driver's side tank. It, too has a rubber sleeve on each end. Then push on the 4 little vent tubes (you marked which one goes where, right?) and another portion of the major service is complete. Have an adult beverage.
    Also, in the last photo, notice the little raised grooves on the lower portion of the fuel tanks that locate the straps.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  18. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    No magic. Lots of photos help in putting it back together. The parts book seemed to show the flat green rubber gasket on the top of the fuel pump going under the large ring nut, but this did not make any sense, since you want to seal the tank. A check of the disassembly photos revealed the correct position. My hoses were marine grade fuel hoses - very tough outer surface.
     
    turbo-joe likes this.
  19. Joe Rocket

    Joe Rocket Rookie

    Aug 23, 2016
    3
    Wow, I realize that's only the fuel level sender but... any way to waterproof that connector?
     
  20. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    If you are referring to the flat green rubber gasket, it seals the entire fuel pump assembly to the fuel tank. It would be tough for fuel to slosh out the top around the gasket, and it would be unlikely any outside water could get into the tank due to its position in the frame. The fuel level sender is located on the bottom of the passenger side tank.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  21. Joe Rocket

    Joe Rocket Rookie

    Aug 23, 2016
    3
    No, I was referring to the photo of the 3-wire (2 pink, 1 black) connector with the un-trimmed zip tie. It looks like something that would only be used inside the cabin. It seems very exposed to rainwater and thus, short-citcuiting.
     
  22. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    Oh, sorry. Yes, that is the connector for the fuel level sending unit in the bottom of the passenger's side fuel tank. I don't disagree with you, but that area seemed very dry and dusty when I took everything apart. It is covered by the underside panels, but it seems water could run down the back side of the fuel tank.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  23. MrAwilson

    MrAwilson Rookie

    Jan 23, 2019
    3
    Michigan
    Full Name:
    Aaron Wilson
    I spent hours reading this beginning to end between clients at work. Absolutely fascinating. I’m not mechanically inclined at all, but I’d love to be able to work on my own cars as a hobby 1 day. Great detailed stuff here!
     
  24. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    Glad you like it. More to come real soon. We're getting close.
     
    MrAwilson likes this.
  25. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,071
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
    While the radiators were out, I decided to remove the RH rear grill. The vertical black piece had become severely chipped over 66,000 miles in the radiator airstream, and the rear attachment point of one of the horizontal red "strakes" had broken loose and would rattle. Access to the rear bolt is much easier with no radiator, but can be done from the front with the door open without too much problem.
    I did not take photos of the disassembly, but you can reverse the re-assembly and figure it out.
    Basically there are four 5-mm allen head screws to remove. One is in the rear on the quarter panel side and three are at the door opening. There is also a "hidden" 4 mm allen screw on the bottom at the door opening. That screw also has a rubber gasket.
    Once the 5 screws are out, gently tap on the vertical black piece to remove the assembly forward out the door opening.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     

Share This Page