Well it’s done I have pictures to share if someone wants them or can tell me how to download them to this forum Main issues in doing this is removing the engine lower cover It’s a pain and in fact I haven’t put mine back on yet since I highly advise that after you complete the job Get the car up to temps and check the oil level and check for leaks before you re install the engine condom as I call it, so far no leaks! You will need a 17 mm and a 22 mm combo wrench for tools and of course you will need a 10 mm socket to remove the bolts that hold the thing in place You will also need a Phillips screw driver to remove the lip screws Pretty straight forward after that, it’s a no brainer, you can hand tighten the oil filters, that’s what I did no torquing here! I always write the mileage and date on my filters Tomorrow I will install the cover and try to come up with a procedure for a one person installation It’s going to be fun Like night air fueling ! I used 0-40 weight oil, I wasn’t happy with this selection, I’ve used 20-50 for years in my 512 because it puts out Chernobyl heat, and the 575 does as well, but I went by the book. And I will be up north with the car, so it will see some sub zero overnight starts In 10 days a round trip to Charleston and back then leave in November for New Jersey New Hampshire back thru Pennsylvania then back home Bought it to drive it Stay tuned
Clyde- I would not tell other owners you can hand tighten the oil filters. Ferrari and maintenance professionals say not to do that.
Oil change is complete no leaks Once again I hand tighten my oil filters for years and never had any issues If you have fears use the tech order torque Too each there own when it comes to this I say Re installed the engine under tray Would highly advise that you replace the lip screws with stainless steel ones as these screws will eventually rust out and become difficult to remove, that’s what I did Putting on the under tray requires that you have to raise the center portion first and hold it in place Install those bolts first then re install the cooling duct to the alternator It’s easier if you have someone to help you but it’s a one man job if you take your time I used 3 small jack stands to hold the tray in place while I re installed the screws I have a picture if anyone wants it Make sure you use the large washers in back 3 positions, if your car has the small ones get the correct size since it will eventually tear through the cover You can get them at any NAPA store along with the stainless steel screws You will find the front 3 10mm bolts on both sides of the front wheels the most difficult to re install so take your time I replaced all 6 with longer bolts which make the installation easier While your under the car with the pan off you can check for other leaks That’s boys and girls It’s a non event as they say
Terry: Normally, I have my mechanic change the oil on my 575 but I'd like to give it a try. It looks fairly straightforward. After the old oil drain and both plugs and new filters are on, how long does it take for the sump to absorb the 10.5litres? Is it better to pour from one litre containers vs. a 5 gallon? Thanks.
It does not take that long, but you want to start out with 9 liters or so first, warm her up, and then add oil slowly until she is about halfway or less between the min and max marks. All of them do not hold exactly the same amount of oil, so you want to sneak up on the final filling. Overfilling can cause all kinds of problems. My 575M normally takes about 12 quarts, which is ~11.36 liters, but most do not hold that much. Also depends on how long you let her drain. My techs use 1 quart containers of the Valvoline 5W-40 we use in her. Make sure you use a torque wrench on the filter when installing.
Good advice Terry! Thanks. Particularly because of the individuality of each car and drain time allowed.
i am trying to find out if i can change the oil and filters myself... the reason for the doubt, is that i dont have a lift removing the shield i imagine , would be a problem,, anyone have a confirmation?
I raise the front end and lower the front wheels on blocks. This gives enough clearance for removing the undertray, the oil sump plug, the filters and the plug at the rear of the engine sump. With the front end raised more of the old oil may be drained from the engine sump through the nearly horizontal rear plug. Without disconnecting any of the oil lines to drain them my 550 took a shade below 12L of fresh oil, for what it's worth. I imagine a 575 will take the same.
I suppose there is no way to use a vacuum pump to remove most of the oil? Never done my own change, so forgive the question if it doesn't make sense on a dry sump such as these have.
