430 won't go into reverse when car gets hot!

Considering you been to a few places i will just assume all these things were done but i will suggest

Pull codes ..what were they
Bleed system correct way ..using actuator screws
Check pis vs output shaft revolutions using scan tool
Check speed sensor
Check/ replace pententiometers if codes justify them to be changed
See if clutch is almost worn down all the way ..visual thru inspection gate
Using scan tool ..monitor requested and actual gate changes .. parameters in scan tool
Monitor pressures in scan tool
Monitor min and max actuator movements ..in range or not
Relearn process using scan tool

My first step would be pull codes after visually checking clutch
Make note ofall min and max gate positions if actuator
Run relearn ..check errors again
When problem occurs connect scan tool and print out all parameters in tcu
Compare to cold or reference car


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Based on the above you may come to the conclusion of a faulty solenoid valve as well as a faulty actuator

I would have to go back to manual to see which EV controls reverse and if common with another gear

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I believe EV5 is used for reverse only.

 

Clutch postition sensor need to be reset correctly

 

For the amount of money you've spent chasing this F1 problem, you could have converted it to manual. Maybe you should do that now.

 

I have this exact problem on my 2008 430 Spider. My suspicion is the PIS needs to be adjusted. Regardless of my suspicions, I’m pretty sure the devil will be detected in the details of some very skilled ECU super sleuths which is why I am having these guys exotic-power/ remotely diagnose, set, and reset things as needed. If you watched many of the YouTube channel videos, you will see Josh from Exotic Power doing most of the highly technical work. The cost for this service is essentially shipping costs + $175 an hour, expecting to utilize 2 hours for a full diagnostic. There is a $2500 deposit required which will be refunded minus the costs when the scan tool is returned. I will let you know how it turns out.

 

I had this on my 07. The actuator needed to be rebuilt.


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Try putting it in first and then pull the lever for reverse (without going into neutral) This usually sorts the issue, but it isn’t a permanent fix. I would check all the solenoids.

 

I used to shift from neutral to reverse, every now and then it wouldn’t want to go. Now I always shift from first gear to reverse, never had a problem since.

 

I had the same problem with my 360 Spider. Readjusting the PIS with the engine hot fixes it.

 

I'm hoping I find the same simple problem!!

 

I should clarify... adjust the PIS while the transaxle is hot. For me, it's a ten-twenty miles drive.

 

So, it’s the actuator. Josh with Exotic Power was able to eliminate all other possible issues through his remote diagnostics. I also have 18% life left on the clutch. Therefore, I will do the actuator rebuild when I get the clutch replaced as this will save about $1,500 in labor by doing both at the same time.


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GTE engineering did an awesome job rebuilding my actuator


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I understand the diagnosis was done ..but are we sure the oentiometer are ok ..did he follow my post above

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How long did it take for GTE to rebuild the actuator and how much did they charge?

 

Took around 2 weeks once they received it. I’ll check my receipt for fee. They upgrade the kit too. Serkan was very helpful and appears to be in high demand


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Thank you. I'm interested in this very much. I'm at the point where I'm thinking F it with the F1 and going to do a conversion to a gated 6. My car only has 15k miles and I really don't think I should be having these problems so I'm trying to weigh whether it makes sense to keep the FI or go gated 6.

 

Have a look at SSAUTOTECH.co.uk. They do an actuator rebuild for £1815 , including upgraded parts etc

 

Yeah, at that price plus a new clutch eventually, is just pushing me closer to doing a conversion. Frankly, I don't care to shift gears like a lot of people, but seems to me there are just too many parts to the F1 system that will fail for it to make long term sense to stick with the F1.

 

If you have a look at the site they have a test rig to see if it needs fixing.

 

The potentiometers have to be pinned out manually with a DVM, they cannot be checked via the scan tool unfortunately. When I get the clutch done, I'll have those checked first before rebuilding the actuator. Thanks man!