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Discussion in '360/430' started by NT-16M, Mar 11, 2016.
Tom Great info, thanks. Thought you also had 398 mm CER rotors for the front.
I'm not Tom, Terry.
Also, he might have a 398mm kit but I'm just sharing what he provided me with.
Great info in this thread.
I have a question for the community: How does one know when the OEM rotors need to be changed, assuming there's no visible wear/damage? It's my understanding that you judge the condition of the CCM rotors by weight, not thickness. Does this mean one needs to periodically remove and weigh all the rotors? If so, at what period?
Yes Dave- remove & weigh them less hats, they also have a thickness listed but the weight tells the story not thickness.
+1 on Gyrodisc steel conversion - great people to deal with, fantastic service, excellent product, always in stock. 3 years of track use, no issues. The stock Scud rotors are so big I have yet to find any brake fade even after 30+ laps @ fast tracks (VIR, glen)
Which brings me back to: When should we do this? Anyone know if there is a particular mileage at which Ferrari suggests you weigh your rotors? I haven't heard of anyone doing this as part of routine maintenance. Guessing that track work means that they should be checked sooner than if the car had not been tracked.
Dave- Ferrari recommends rotor changes every second pad change. Pretty imprecise.
NT- Sorry, should have looked.
No need to apologize, Terry. I apologize if my response came across as rude.
Hey Robert thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you've been happy with everything on both cars.
If anyone has any technical questions feel free to post them up, I would be happy to answer and any and all of them!
Front: RB CCM-X Rotors for Ferrari F430 Scuderia & Challenge Front
Rear: RB CCM-X Rotors for for Ferrari 360 Challenge Stradale & F430 (incl. Scuderia & 430 Challenge) Rear
Front:Two-piece Rotor - Ferrari 430 Scuderia / Spider 16M (Iron Repl.)
Rear:IronTwo-piece rotor replacement (Open Slot) for Ferrari 360 Challenge Stradale, 430 Scud, F430 w/CCM, F430 Challenge, F430 Spider Rear 350x34mm Rear
Brought my Scud to the dealer and they said a pad/rotor change would be advised if I intend to track the car (which I intend to do a couple times a year). Interested in this thread and very interested in the Sicom route (Rebrake as they are now rebranded).
My question is, what's to keep them from saying, "your rotors are not rebuildable" and you lose your deposit.
Also interested in the AP racing iron rotors. But I have a tendency to go the "cheaper" route to start then end up spending more money in the long haul than if I just spent more money the first time and did things "right". I can spend the $12k but would really rather not.
I agree - I could buy new CCM's but why?
IMHO, use the very inexpensive and effective Girodisc steels, put the CCM back on if you decide to sell the car and pocket - $10k every time you wear a set out. Call it your savings plan for a 488 Scud. Under HARD track use they do get a bit too hot after 30+ minutes but who cares, the 1st time is a bit more expensive because you buy Hats & rotors but only rotors after that - $600ea if i remember correctly. Also they have the Raybestos NASCAR pads that do an excellent job on track, kind of dusty but I like cleaning mine.
I am not sure what kind of ducting the Scud has as it has CCM's, but have you considered further ducting?
Are the girodiscs + pads easier to modulate for street driving? Ive found the stock ccm setup is difficult to modulate smoothly for stop and go traffic.
The scud has no ducting for brake cooling. If I intended to keep using it on track I would install 430/360 CH ducts. I am returning it to the street, and only running the CH car on track. The track pads from Girodisc would not be optimum on the street, very similar to the CCM they need heat to work properly. I will change over to a street brake compound and leave the steel rotors, if I find myself in need of a backup car for track - swap back to the racing raybestos and go. I do understand your modulation comment - they were not bad- pads only work in a temp range and the best ones for the track are usually terrible on the street. These were OK on the street in temps over 70 deg f, never tried when it was cold out, or cold and wet. They were better modulation then cold CCMs but also a lot dustier.
Not sure if I will keep those pads just for the street, may try something in a lower heat range. Very inexpensive vs ccm pads.
If anyone has some OEM spare hats for sale please give me a shout. I will buy them.
Amazing the Scud/16M has no extra brake ducting. The 575M HGTC even had special upper A arms with hose brackets, a unique lower front under-body panel with NACA ducts and large hoses to cool its CCM brakes. I guess stopping a 4000 lb front engine V12 is more of a chore than stopping a 3100 lb, mid-engine V8.
Just an update to this post, Exotics is using AP Racing's J-hook iron rotors at least on one of their cars. I was at the Ferrari dealership yesterday to get some sage advise from John and saw an ER Scud in the parking lot.
No, it needs them if you are really an animal IMHO. I bought a bunch of challenge pieces to put them in but stopped tracking it and started racing instead. So they are now garage art ; )
Scud is supposedly just under 3k lbs. Haven't had mine on the scales though.
Single- if you want to turn the garage art back to cash PM me- I wouldn't mind putting the ducts on my Scud -even as my backup track car they will get used. My problem with the Scud is when I drive on the street it feels like such a waste, then I track it and feel like I'm beating her up too much. So I keep going back and forth?!?!?
With CST off, full slicks and suspension, Scud needs ducts.
Jim. If you end up pulling the trigger on the AP Racing rotors, please let us know what you think.
I know that other platforms have had very good success with them but haven't heard any Ferrari owner's comments on them.
Apparently, my current rotors are good for awhile. My pads are good for "daily driving" but would need replacement if I track the car, according to the dealer tech. So, when I take the car in for it's service in Jan, it's getting a full set of RSC1's and will leave the rotors for now.
Getting a fresh set of PSC2's too. I wanted to wait until the next gen PSC came out but I have '09 Corsas on the car and they are dangerous.
When the time for rotor replacement comes, I'm leaning towards a set from surface transforms. The Scud deserves CCB's.
Sorry - just saw this. Let me put all of them together, snap some pics, and send you a PM.