360 Rough Idle and backfire when cold | FerrariChat

360 Rough Idle and backfire when cold

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Neil22, Sep 29, 2020.

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  1. Neil22

    Neil22 Karting
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    Nov 4, 2018
    209
    Oxford CT
    Full Name:
    Neil Silberkleit
    I took my car out the other day and noticed when I shifted into second the car would buck and and what sounded like a backfire in the exhaust. the car was not fully warmed up, before I took out it idle for a few minutes. The issue disappeared after the car warmed up (145+) and it seemed to run fine. I also notice the car seems to idle rough and the when coming to stop the car would drop to 500 RMP and come right back to 1100 even after the car warmed up.
    I cleaned the MAF sensors fond a bug in one of them?
    Restarted the car and it seem to idle rough. I have not driven the car since I cleaned the MAF.

    One other item - I had the thermostat fail causing the car to run very hot 230 for a short time but it never boiled over or lost coolant. After fixing the thermostat issue the car ran fine and the temp stayed around 180F. I did have some coolant spill when I was bleeding the system thinking there was a vapor lock before changing the thermostat. I sprayed some cleaner and washed the area when I was done.

    Details 360 spider 6 speed manual
    Codes:
    P1636 - microprocessor function monitoring
    P0155 - unknown
    P0385 - Engine revolution sensor
    This is on the left bank.​
    NO CLE

    I have not cleared any of the codes.
    Should I just clear the codes or should I reset the computers and preform a drive cycle.
    If you clear the codes will the computer reset - On other cars I work on when you clear the codes the ECU will re-learn the function since while the code is present it just runs a default program.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Feb 20, 2015
    11,578
    Sydney
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    Ian Riddell
    From the official Ferrari books:

    Controller Monitoring ECU Reset (Bank 2):

    "Malfunction (plaus)" ????

    Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit:

    Check wiring
    Check CAN line
    Check CAN line impedence (approx. 60 ohms)
    Check temperature between left and right. Has to be the same.

    Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit (Bank 2)
    Check wiring, DG sensor (?)
    Check fly-wheel mounting
    Check gap between sensor and fly-wheel
    Check crankshaft and camshaft signal with oscilloscope...

    Sounds like you have plenty to look at. Perhaps, due to a faulty coolant temperature sensor, the ECU thinks the car is warm all the time (hence the poor idle when the engine is actually cold)? I'm not sure what happens to the water around the temperature sensor if there is a vapour lock.

    Maybe a faulty cam or crank sensor is affecting the timing. Coolant sensors and crank sensors are relatively cheap if you can find the Bosch equivalent part number.
     
  3. Neil22

    Neil22 Karting
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    Nov 4, 2018
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    Neil Silberkleit
    Thanks Qavion - is this information out of the service manual?
    Also I did reset the computer and restarted the car no code are showing after it fully warmed up. The car seemed to idle better.

    As I mentioned above I did clean the back of the engine after the thermostat fiasco and spilling coolant - I think some of the wiring got wet and cased the issue but will not know for sure until I drive the car.
    I have found the wiring in these cars is very susceptible to water which causes havoc with the wiring and computers.

    will post an update after I drive the car.
     
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  4. hessank

    hessank Formula 3
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    Aug 8, 2005
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    Fred
    +1
    When I cleaned mine 2 years ago and used a garden hose with the water trickling to wash out the foam it lit up like a Christmas tree with the codes.
    Scared the hell out of me. I left it out to dry with the hatch open and with pressurized air try to blow out as many crevices and elect connections.
    Took two days of drying and a battery reset to get it running as it did before the engine cleaning.

    So yes, very finicky when moisture gets into the connectors.
     
  5. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    The codes I came across when browsing FChat. They were on a small downloadable pdf file (820Kb).
     
  6. Neil22

    Neil22 Karting
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    Nov 4, 2018
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    Neil Silberkleit
    hessank - clearing the codes did not work? was a hard reset required and then did you do the drive cycle or just drive the car?
    I did have issue when I first cleaned the engine so I did my best to stay away from the motor itself - need new coil overs mine get wet and the engine misfires have to take them out and blow air and dry them before the car would run correctly.
     
  7. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    Nov 29, 2001
    12,662
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    Mitchell Le
    It sounds like these were pending codes and not really serious yet. I would clear them and do a learning cycle on the car. Second point: never, ever wash the engine with water. It is never a good idea.
     
  8. Neil22

    Neil22 Karting
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    Nov 4, 2018
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    Neil Silberkleit
    if we can't use water can you give me a suggestion on what to use to clean the engine and engine area?
     
  9. EastMemphis

    EastMemphis Formula 3
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    May 25, 2019
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    John
    Only pure unadulterated love...
     
  10. hessank

    hessank Formula 3
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    No, clearing the codes did not work. I didn't do a hard reset because I suspected what caused the problems (moisture). My car was running great before the cleaning (I have Trev's tune). So I just spent my energies on drying out the engine and it worked.
     
  11. Neil22

    Neil22 Karting
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    Nov 4, 2018
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    Neil Silberkleit
    Update - Cleared the codes and did a drive cycle.
    Came home checked for codes and got the follow:
    P0300 Multiple missfires
    P0301 Major emission Cylinder 1
    NO CLE Light

    These were not there before!
    Drove the car the next day and after 30 minutes the CLE came on. The car is at a shop getting a new top so I have not been able to check for new codes.
    I am assuming the misfire is no longer a pending code. Car did seem to have some jerkiness at low RPM. Did not seem to pull smooth.

    I ordered new Coil Overs since most of these are original to the car and have just shy of 40K miles and I had issues with some of them before.
     
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  12. Neil22

    Neil22 Karting
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    Nov 4, 2018
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    Neil Silberkleit
    Update - I found this very interesting -
    when I had checked the codes after my first drive cycle I had cylinder 1 misfire. On my way to get the new top put on I got a CLE light.
    So when I picked up the car, the first thing I did was move the coil pack from cylinder 1 to 4 and 4 to 1 to see if the problem would move.
    Next I checked for codes to see why the CLE light was on and I had multiple misfires in multiple cylinders?

    Cleared the codes and did a drive cycle on my way home with the new top on the car. Check and found no codes:mad::mad:

    When out again later that day and checked the car during the drive and no codes :oops:

    When out again and checked and still no codes and the car is running fine :) I will attribute this to incorreclty doing the drive cycle the first time and finicky Enzo in the back just being a Enzo;)

    Drove about 60+ miles.

    I did notice that when I change the position of the coil packs they had some rust and were from the year 2003 when the car was built - Ordered new ones that just arrived and new plugs :):) Will look to install them when I do the annual service unless another issue arrises.;)
    For now will just enjoy the fall weather

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