Hi all Just thought i would post about the state of my fuel pump. Doing my major and I had scheduled to replace my pump gasket witH an ethanol friendly one from our sponsor Ricambi (thanks Daniel). This is a job you can do without the engineering ne out and I recommend everyone who has not replaced it do it now. It will take a few casual hours and then you can rest assured your pump wont be giving any problems because of this.
Image Unavailable, Please Login The gasket was not in as bad a shap as other parts What was in real bad shape was the covers #32 in diagram. These things were crumbling all ready. The gasket number is 9 in diagram but more importantly there were all sorts of chunks accumulating in the bottom all ready
Here are some pics The main gasket I Could easily tear and did for illstration but it was in on piece originally. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Does any one know where the #4 vent pipe goes. Kinda hard to tell from parts diagram and it was loose in there and fell out when i turned the pump uoside down.
Grant, what year is your car? I thought these gaskets weren't supposed to break down on later cars. Does Ricambi also supply ethanol resistant boots (covers, part #32)? Are those clear plastic tubes part of the car or just what you used for draining the tank? I've bought supposedly fuel resistant pipes before, but they have gone soft and swelled with prolonged exposure to fuel.
My understanding is all cars built before maybe 2000 or maybe even 2004 nit sure But all 355 as far as I know will have this problem. Remember my car was running flawlessly just thoght since engine out might as well change it and be done forever. You do not need the engine out to change this. I felt compelled to let others know that you might wash you car, or fix that little thing that does nit offer ok good but this is far more important. Someone else possted this a few years back so it was on my list at this major.
Those pipes come with the quick coupler kit to drain the coolant. I forget where I posted it. Just makes oil and coolant changes easier.
I left the boots off as I saw no purpose. Maybe a spark but for that I would have to get metal in the tank
Just to correct myself I actually order a replacement so unless Daniel confirms I have no idea if this new gasket is better (ethanol friendly) or if the same as the old one. I do know and posted pics that my old one was buggered.
Thanks for the tip, Grant. I'd heard it was an issue and planned to do it on mine, but then I thought I read somewhere that it wasn't an issue on later cars. Clearly it is!
All I can say is it was on mine Thats why I am telling the group. 150 bucks does not all ways go to far. Especially because the engine does not have to come out to do it.
I did mine not long ago Man what a mess. Ended up replacing the pump as the one in the tank was just floating around the gasket was that bad. Glad i got to it when i did. The whole swirl pot was just full of gasket pellets that were getting munched by the pump GRRRRRRRRRRR.
Just a stupid question, guys ... I want to do the same job on my 348 ... I have the impression that the pumps are more or less equal. Could you confirm that it is possible to remove the pumps from tank 348 without removing the tank from the car? We only need access under the car to remove the pumps .... is this correct? Thanks guys
Sorry, another question... Is it possible to get to the internal filter easily to check it (i.e. item #10)?
Yeah for sure one thing that needs to be looked at for sure during a service. easy to do. They were out of stock with the new rubbers so I just machined some out of some plastic stuff they use in the rifinery business, cant remember the name of it but it was white and easy to machine on the lathe. Solid nut rubber so I can here if the pumps are making the "right sound" while they are running.
Here I s Ernies thread it works and it on a 348 https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/348-gas-tank-removal.193188/ Yes just lift car and start by draining tank. You obviously do not need to remove tank, just drain discnnect parts, then it drops out bottom complete
As your can see the whole pump drops down and you can easily see the gasket. My gasket was not bad but still lots of chunks The gasket you replace is right under that hose clamp that you can see the band of. Its cracking bad As,for the filter what you need to do is undo the red and black wire (easy to do) then the 2 hoses have quick couplers, and you squeeze them on the front and back to remove. Once they are off the pump etc all comes out. You need to wiggle it because there are fingers inside the black housing that kinda grip it.
What is the groups thinking on the little boots covering the red and black wires. As you can see my black one has been off for who knows how long. Do we need them or not. Since mine was off for who knows I am thinking not, they were not sealed so full of gas inside and out anyway.
The two orings 18 and 29 should be bought before. A good hydraulics shop will have them for 30 bucks or Ricambi sells ferrari ones for double. I ordered them from Ricambi before I checked with th my hydraulics guys so now I have spares.
There really isn't any need for the terminal cover boots as the whole assembly is submerged in fuel. I'm happy to be proven wrong but really if you connect it correctly they do nothing!
I guess there might be a small risk if the red wire breaks free of its terminal due to vibration.. and touches the pump case. The rubbers boots may reinforce/support the wires and keep them from moving about.... or semi-contain the wires if they do break free. Are there spring washers underneath the nuts on the wire terminals to stop them vibrating loose?
