355 F1 system reliability

Hello. I had posted a message earlier, but apparently it didn't go through. I'm just going to paraphrase this time as I really went in to detail on the last one but now do not have time. I have a 1999 355 F1 Spider and have experienced the following issues with the transmission:

1) When at a stop sign, sometimes the car will downshift from first into neutral. You just activate first again, but it can be annoying.

2) Sometimes when trying to upshift the car will flash the number like it doesn't remember that it exists. Downshifting and then upshifting again corrects the issue.

3) Today, I came to a stop sign after driving up a long hill. The car downshifted properly, but then the transmission light came on. I panicked at first, but once I activated neutral and first, it was fine again and the light went out.

4) Reverse takes 1-3 times to activate properly. It only stays in gear when actively moving and will "time out" after about 15-20 seconds. You can re-engage it again, but it's just kind of a pain

Are any of these signs of an underlying issue? Also, does anyone have a FAQ or diagram of all of the fluid checks for the engine? My Dad cannot decipher those poorly drawn diagrams in the manual. I'm going to ask our local foreign car mechanic, but I thought there had to be something online (no look finding anything though). Thanks for any help on these issues!

 

My advoce is that maybe you are driving it more like an automatic. The f1 does switch into neutral if your foot is not on the brake or gas.

If you are too low in the rpm band it will downshift automaticaly from second to first.

Download a workshop manual and read up on the transmission. This will help you understand how it operates.

The easiest description from me to you is drive it like you would drive a stick shift.

For example if you are in a lot of traffic dont keep inching ahead for 5 minutes. Let the next car get 50 feet ahead then take off slowly in first, once you feel the clutch engage fully, let the car idle till you catchup to the next car.

When comming up to a traffic light downshift like you would a stick, or if comming up fast shift to neutral and coast up to light.

When at a light waiting leave in neutral, this way if you relax your foot off the brake the car does not beep and shift to neutral for you.

Dont try to takeoff with the doors or bonnetts open, dont back uphill slowly either go faster or stab at the throttle so the clutch engages, then disengages and repeat. Just some pointers i thought i would share.
Also if you want a scary fast shift put the car in sport mode and shift at 8500 with your foot right to the floor and hang on.

 

Oh ya also finish your profile it will help us understand which car you have and where good places near you to service it are. Also if you are driving it in automoatic mode its a pain. This could be what you are doing. Us the paddles and you will have less problems. This transmission is not an automatic it is a manual and does not like being driven like an automatic.

 

Thanks Taz! I think I have been driving it more as an automatic. I came from a Smart car before this...if you can believe that...so I have been driving it similarly and not super aggressively yet (not quite trusting it at this point and not wanting to do any damage). I only sometimes use automatic mode initially just to make sure that it's shifting alright and then switch over to manual mode when I get to open road. I have been apprehensive about engaging sport mode, but the next time out I think I will give it a try. As for 8500 rpms...I have made it to 7K and that was plenty exciting! It's hard to do much more in my area, but I really want to get it on a track and work it out properly then sneaking around back roads..lol. So it sounds like my issues are not anything major with the transmission, am so glad to hear that. We'll look into checking the fluids and keep an eye on it if anything progresses. Thanks again!!

 

I have never experienced any of the symptoms you mention.

Either your transmission is not working properly or you are not driving it properly (most likely the latter).

Some of what you are experiencing can be explained by you taking your foot off the brake at the wrong time, but not all.

To put it very simply, most of the time you should have your foot on either the brake or the accelerator.
If you have neither, after about 10 seconds the system will shift into neutral. That's normal, so don't just sit there with both feet on the floor.

If the transmission light comes on, usually that means you have overheated the clutch by "riding" it too much.
Either by creeping along in traffic for a long time (as has already been said, wait for the car in front to move ahead enough for you to take off positively), or by reversing uphill (the car hates this and it should be avoided where possible).

The other things you mention do not sound right to me.

 

1. RPM too low to upshift? The engine hates low RPMs and you may have given it enough by downshifting and accelerating.

2. This is normal, a safety feature in case you let your feet off accidentally. In fact, be sure to use N at red lights. Prolongs the clutch life (specifically, the throw-out mechanism).

3. Check your F1 fluid and keep an eye out for a pattern. I haven't heard of this one.

4. Normal. Hold the reverse lever for a full second for more reliable shift into R. Letting your feet off the pedals for too long in R or 1st will trigger N.

Reverse never fully engages the clutch (I wonder if it's for gear ratio/safety reasons), so it slips forever and ever. For this reason, slow reversing uphill is bad. Do it in short, strong bursts, and only when warmed up.

Don't try sport mode + 8500 RPM unless the road is wide open. It is BRUTAL.

我從使用 Tapatalk 的 LT29i 發送

 

Best bet is to put it in sport mode and never touch that switch or the auto button again. Sport mode will shift faster with less slippage, resulting in longer clutch life. Plus it's just more fun.. be sure to lift off a small amount when you shift up, and give it a blip on downshifts for the smoothest changes.

 

Doesnt the car blip the throttle on its own ?


1994 ferrari 348 spider , third owner purchased may 2013 w/ 27804 miles

 

No it does not.

Personally, this is what I love about the 355 F1 system. It's ancient and archaic as far as sequential gearboxes go. It makes for a very unique driving experience.

After driving the F1, I don't think I would even consider a gated 355 ever again.

 

i heard they blip
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They don't blip. Thats the beauty of the F1 system in the 355, its still cable operated throttle, so you can heel toe your own throttle input blips.

 

You had to do it...
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I couldnt resist . Lol


1994 ferrari 348 spider , third owner purchased may 2013 w/ 27804 miles

 

Yes , but dont the idle air actuators create a blip ? . ****storm in ...3...2...1.


1994 ferrari 348 spider , third owner purchased may 2013 w/ 27804 miles

 

John, are you stirring the pot?

 

John i think mine blipped on my last drive.

 

Seriously though veronica if you have never driven a standard, motorcycle or car you really need to read the work shop manual. It is free to download, i forget where from though, and understand the transmission. If you drive it properly it will give you years of trouble free service and if you dont it will bery likely cost you lots of money.

Remember you are driving a computerized standard in a race bred car. It wants you to either have your foot on the throttle or on the brake, not both. If you have neither it needs to be in neutral. Good luck and do lots of reading. You will be fine.

 

Just to chime in... had my '99 355 F1 for 11 years, with absolutely no issues with the F1 system. Previous owner had history of a rock hitting the lower mounting bolt of the actuator, knocking it loose. It was always a bit wobbly when I check it, but it never affected shifting. I finally fixed recently, but shifting remained flawless. It just took a helicoil and a new bolt.

I still need to have Oz design a shield to protect that lower mounting bolt to ward off future wayward rocks...

Hint-hint ;-)

Cheers

 

There are plenty of myths regarding the 355.

One is that the F1 system is unreliable. It has proven to be anything but.
In the hands of people who know how to drive them they are an absolute pleasure.

Another common myth is that the '95s produce more power.
They don't.

 

What is the life expectancy for a clutch on a 99 F1 is driven sensible and not abused? Seems a bit longer that later models such as 360 and 430.

 

20000 miles i know for sure

 

I am looking at one with original clutch at 20k and it is only reading 13% wrong. Having f dealer do ppi and they say perfect.

 

Great. The previous owner knew how to drive it and wasn't an idiot.
Good news.

 

Buy it, drive it, fix the clutch when it goes. Not hard on these.

 

I've had two 1999 F1 355 and both had problems. NEVER again! In my experience, the 355 with a manual is one of the best most fun Ferrari to drive and own whereas the F1 355 was, in my experience, hands down the worst. The only Ferrari that would leave me stranded and needing a tow truck time and again.