355 door locks cycle on/off, passenger door won't open

this happened to me too.

I took a different approach to fixing it... I pulled the fuse lol.

It did coincide with me taking the door panels off, so maybe there is some binding issues like you said. I haven't had a chance to really investigate the problem, so I took a half-assed approach to the fix.

 

Disconnect the battery. Unlock the doors. Open & disassemble.

 

Man that is a tough one! I have never had this happen in a Ferrari, but I've seen it on other cars.
First, I'd pull the fuse for the power door locks while you diagnose the issue.
Second, The issue is probably caused by the door latch being in bound up by either not being all the way latched, pushed too far by a hard slam, or possibly a piece of debris in the mechanism. Roll down the window and have an assistant firmly pull outward on the door while you experiment with the key lock or lock button and see if you can get it unlocked. If pulling out doesn't work then pushing in a bit might.
Once the door is unlocked and open, carefully look over the latch mechanism for binding. If that all seems fine them pull the door card and start looking for anything thats been bent or come apart.
If this fails, things get much uglier and a trip to the dealer is probably the best plan.

 

I had this happen all I had to do was to adjust the locking post on the door jam...loosen with an allen wrench move it ever so,slightly out (away from car) retighten the post and check. mine worked first time ...the post is binding on the lock and excess pressure is making the lock cycle...

 

Try pushing the door in while unlocking to take pressure off of the mechanism.

 

I had this same symptom, and realized, quite accidentally, that it was caused (in my case) by the seat belt latch being caught in the door.

So, one way or another, it's probably either a problem with the door not closing properly, or with the alignment of the door and latch.

Mike

 

Excellent, glad it worked out. Yes a small adjustment outwards of the striker would be advisable..don't over do it, it doesn't take much.

 

Here is an idea:
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I am the latest victim. Cannot get my drivers door to unlock. Going on three days. The locks rapidly cycle like described in the first post. The post for the passenger door will pull up further and unlock the door. The drivers door post does not pull up far enough and will not unlock the door. You can feel the resistance in the post. I don't want to force it any more.

Can I get any access by removing the 2 allen head screws for the outside door handle? In my case, I believe the striker post on the quarter panel migrated outward and has caused the latch to bind on the striker post. There are a good number of threads about this issue, but no conclusive solutions????

 

The car that just keeps giving...... problems )

Will it go up further with the key? (with the battery disconnected).

The mechanism is quite resistant. The actuators actually help move the plunger into the right position.

You may get some access by removing the door scoop. Any more, and you're looking at interior door card removal. Maybe you can look at online pictures of locks for sale and the parts manual to get a better idea of what you're looking at. Do you have any plastic trim removal tools and some spare plastic door card clips? I usually leave some on standby.

When locking, if one actuator doesn't move into the locked position, both doors are commanded to unlock. I didn't realise it was similar for opening (both actuators are commanded to lock if one doesn't go into the unlock position?).

 

LOL...its like its always Christmas.......a new present everyday..ha ha

No.

Yup. Been studying.....lol

 

Yes, that is my problem. It is a mechanical problem and not electrical. When power is disconnected, the passenger door look post will pull up and down smoothly, but the drivers lock post is resistant in either direction. Open to other ideas and thoughts?

 

After examining the passenger lock, I know that my drivers door is partially locked. The door jamb adjustment post was loose enough to migrate outward and must not be stable enough for me to push the door in further to catch the second lock. Certain that once the door is opened, simply tightening the post will solve the problem.

However, how am I going to get the door open? What type of tool can I slide down thru the window opening and not damage the rubber, door card, or glass?

 

I GOT IT! Was a real PITA, but I was able to open the door. The solution was much easier than expected and I will be my best to articulate for everyone to benefit.

My situation was exactly as I thought. A few days ago, I noticed my drivers door was no longer flush against the rear quarter. Needed to adjust the striker post, but waited a few days.....a few days too many.....lol. When I got the door open, the striker post was not in a fix position, but completely loose. The door latch has 2 latch positions, and while the door will keep shut in the first position, the 2nd latch needs to engage to fully complete the positioning of the door. As Ian mentioned, when one latch is not fully engaged, or to quote from post #14:

"if one actuator doesn't move into the (fully) locked position, both doors are commanded to unlock. I didn't realize it was similar for opening both actuators are commanded to lock if one doesn't go into the unlock position."

this is why the doors will rapidly go back and forth between lock and unlock.

In order to get my door opened, I first turned off the battery to stop the actuators. With the windows in the down position, I was able to get a flat mini flashlight in between the door panel and door glass. Peering first in the passenger door, I could see how the latch moved with the door handles. With the passenger door open, I was able to engage the first position on the latch and with a very long thin bladed screwdriver, I could push down on the backside of the latch that connects to the interior door handle. Immediately released the latch. When over to the drivers door and voila, the latch disengaged. Hope this helps; actually, I hope no one has to go through this.......not fun.....

 

All I need to do is adjust and tighten my striker post, but not sure of the proper orientation:

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Circled is a 12mm tab that I assume must either face the door or the interior? Tab is there for a reason, but I don't see it?

 

^^^^Perhaps someone can take a look at the striker posts and report the orientation? Thanks

 

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/348-quick-question.133351/#post-136331851

See Daniel’s (Ricambi) post.

I see Ernie reversed it to help prevent wear in another thread.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/position-of-door-lock-striker.473667/#post-143653909

 

^^^^^^Exactly what I needed: I will go with what is recommended by Ferrari with the "opening" facing the car interior. Thanks


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