348 belt change engine clearance

Probably not. If you removed the bumper, then it may be possible. You could always cheat a bit by placing some wood planks between then car and the jacks.

 

21 inches isn't enough. There was no way I would have been able to get my engine out under my MaxJax at the middle setting.

 

When I owner a 91ts I did an engine removal.
My hydraulic scissor lift, has a total lift of something like 54".

 

The one thing I've find with stone of the scissor lifts is the framing members or braces are in the way of dropping the subframe.

Mobilized reply by Dahveedem

 

I'm currently doing my third engine out and it so happens my motor is sitting on the ground as we speak.

While my car is a 355 it should be some what similar to the 348 engine heights.

My motor is sitting on a dolly which raises it 11 inches from the ground and the overall height with dolly is 37 inches.....so factor around 26 inches just for the motor height alone.
Of course your motor will need to sit on some kind of dolly so in answer to your question.....a jack with 21 inches will not raise the body enough to clear the motor.

 

This would be a pretty decent option for a home garage, about another $1k more than the Quickjack BL-5000SLX lift, but certainly more useful in the garage:

FREE SHIPPING — Dannmar MaxJax Portable Auto Lift — 2-Post System, Mid-Rise, Model# 120050/Maxjax | Two-Post Lifts| Northern Tool + Equipment

 

I actually have that lift and am selling it bc the house I bought it won't work with the remodel. Someone else suggested the BendPak LR-60P.... anyone seen that one in action? It's around the $ 1600 tag

Mobilized reply by Dahveedem

 

I have had a MaxJax for about 6 months. It is a great lift, rated at 6000 lbs, very stable and a fantastic addition to the garage.
Alden

 

I just got this one, the placement in the down/flat position with it scissored out seems to dictate whether I can get the engine stands in an unobstructed spot.

Sure was great removing a rear tire at waist level yesterday.

(This does not seem to be a replacement for (Quickjacks) I'm still in the market for a set and I'll probably try 12v unless I find a great deal and I'll buy the lightest size. 3500)
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Don,

It depends on the height of the cart that will be receiving the engine cradle, and if you're getting into the area behind the front timing drive cover, a little extra height makes things easier for access in dropping the oil pan, cradle cross-brace, etc. With a 21" lift, I'm sure that you could configure your cart and an incremented lifting approach to get it to work. The body only needs to be lifted to clear the engine cradle out through the rear of the car with a removed bumper. IMO however, I'd put my $ into getting your 2-post operational. The additional clearance and free working area underneath with a 2-post just makes the job a bit easier. Do those scissor lifts elevate the car at a slightly angled trajectory? If so, that may make the remove/install process of the cradle assembly a bit trickier than a 2-post going straight up and down. Also, if you're needing a cart, my adjustable wood-framed one is available as seen in my own engine-out thread.

 

how high does that lift raise it? what particular lift is it?

How does/do the wheels on the lift line up under the car and subframe?

 

Revolution 6000 lb, measures 48" at front bumper airdam lip and came with a set of unused extensions. I had to get extra ramps for clearance.

Almost vertical I didn't measure yet. It's 84" sprawled flat; with the lift arms extended and at factory lift points it appears I can position lift cross arms out of the way from under engine sub frame.

I'll go by and put broom next to center cap and check out vertical line later.

Travel equals 1"forward movement going up and 1" aft movement to down position. (Back to original spot) I aligned a couple music stands on center of two wheel caps. Fwiw

 

Picture of first lift attempt-- looks like room to position jack and car father forward initially.

This is heavy duty not to be confused with Quick Jacks IMHO.
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Interesting!

Though it looks like the very front of the sub frame isn't going to clear that cross member. Granted I'm looking from my mobile.

That was the issue with my friend's scissor (can't recall the brand right now) --- the cross member of the lift wouldn't allow the sub frame enough clearance to come out.


Mobilized reply by Dahveedem

 

I am considering the QuickJack for engine out as well but according to the F355 engine removal procedure document it says that you need at least 20 inch height to remove the engine, but some in this thread says it's too low?

Of course you need to remove the bumper.....

The quickjack can raise 21 inch, can anyone verify if it will work who did it?

 

Bendpak LR-60 goes to 26" btw.
Quickjack at 21" will not be enough. Now you can put in blocks, or raise the car on blocks under wheels first and put blocks under the jack and make it work if your creative I am certain. Out of the box the lift height alone will not work but I'm sure someone can make it work but it will require additional steps.

 

Is there any other alternative lightweight solution like Quickjack that will go higher?

 

Not sure if you saw the first line. "Bendpak LR-60 goes to 26" btw."

No one I know has done engine out with a low rise lift but I suspect it can be done with the LR-60.

 

You need at least a mid-rise lift

 

It's not lightweight...

 

Compared to what? It is light compared to 2 post lift or 4 post lift. Is it about as light as a dog food bag... well no but that does not mean its not light weight what ever light weight means.

 

There's a transition period happening with Maxjax...Bendpak bought them now.

https://www.maxjax.com/

sjd

 

My post was from 2017, way before that happened

 

As i said quickjack is lightweight and that what i was referring to..not something that is 4 times the weight of quickjack