1988 Mondial 3.2 Problems......HELP | FerrariChat

1988 Mondial 3.2 Problems......HELP

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by hmaguire, May 24, 2008.

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  1. hmaguire

    hmaguire Rookie

    Jul 3, 2006
    18
    Vancouver, Canada
    Full Name:
    Hugh Maguire
    I have had my car for almost 3 years now. She has 26,000 miles. The major service was done by Ferrari of Vancouver in 2006 and the clutch replaced at the same time. The car has developed some significant gremlins and I am not sure if they are related or not.

    1) The car is slow to start and usually 2 attempts have to be made. Once she is running you can't rev her up for a few minutes or she'll cough and splutter and occasionally stall. Is this normal Ferrari behaviour?

    2) Once started she is guttless untill the tach gets over 3000-400RPM then she takes off like she was turbocharged. This behaviour tends to improve as she warms up but never completely goes away. i.e. there is always a hiccup at 3-4000RPM.

    3) More seriously after 30-60mins or on a hot day i.e. 80 degrees or so she wants to stall out i.e. when stopping and letting the clutch out with no gas the tach will drop way below 1000RPM occasionally bounce back but usually stall out. I can manage this by slowing down with my foot on the gas, letting the clutch out and taking my foot of the gas slowly untill the tach is gently guided to 1000RPM and then hitting the brake. This make stopping at lights interesting.

    4) Finally and worst of all.. On a hot day i.e. > 70 degrees (this counts as hot in Vancouver) She won't start at all. It seem no electricity is getting to the starter motor since all the electrical system works lights etc. but the starter motor doesn't turn. Usually but not always if I wiggle and push on the starter motor relay it will then start up no problem. Usually if I wait and let the fuse box cool down by taking off the cover, opening up the hood it will start up after a few minutes 5-45 mins.

    I have been working with an independant Ferrari mechanic and so far we have replaced the fuse box with a new stock one, replaced the distributor cap and replaced all of the spark plugs with no improvement in behaviour. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,149
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #2 Steve Magnusson, May 24, 2008
    Last edited: May 24, 2008
    Is this a euro-version 3.2 Mondial (i.e., K-Jet without Lambda so no cat nor O2 sensor) or a US-version 3.2 Mondial (i.e., K-Jet with Lambda so has cat and O2 sensor)? 1, 2, and 3 might be related if you have a US version and have lost the +12V power (from the protection relay) to run the injection system (especially if your mechanic has tweaked the mixture with the +12V power missing so warm-running isn't too bad).

    I think there is no stock "starter motor relay" (for a euro or a US version) -- can you clarify with the letter and name of the relay given in your OM?

    And when you say "the starter motor doesn't turn" does this mean:

    1. the starter solenoid fires/clicks loudly, but the starter motor itself never spins, or

    2. the starter solenoid does not fire/click?
     
  3. hardtop

    hardtop F1 World Champ

    Jan 31, 2002
    11,285
    Colorado
    Full Name:
    Dave
    Lot's of places to look given the symptoms. One place is to look for vacuum leaks which are often overlooked but can play havoc, particularly during warmup. Bad injectors can cause many of the problems you mention as well. I'd find a competent mechanic but these are just a couple of ideas.

    Good luck,
    Dave
     
  4. snj5

    snj5 F1 World Champ

    Feb 22, 2003
    10,213
    San Antonio
    Full Name:
    Russ Turner
    Agree that there are many places and possibilities, but some of your problems are very reminiscent of when my o2 protection relay wet bad. Vacuum lines are always good to check as well.

    As to the starter, indeed there is no stock starter relay, and it may be as simple as cleaning the contacts at the starter and ensuring a good ground. It's also been my experience, thaat the behavior you describe may be the first sign of a battery going poopy.

    Good luck!
     
  5. hmaguire

    hmaguire Rookie

    Jul 3, 2006
    18
    Vancouver, Canada
    Full Name:
    Hugh Maguire
    Thanks a lot for the info so far.

    1) I am not very mechanical so how can I tell if the car is a euro or US model?

    2) And no the starter/solenoid does not click or fire

    Thanks again guys
     
  6. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,149
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Some ways -- decode your VIN at www.red-headed.com or compare the components on your car to the figures shown in Section 3 of the US or euro OMs and see what matches up. The US version ("with Lambda") has a frequency valve driven by the ECU so this system can have electrical problems. If you can learn to "feel" the frequency valve, you can have an easy way to quasi-confirm/deny that the electrical part of the system is working -- the frequency valve (if so equipped) should be buzzing/vibrating whenever the engine is running (cold or warm). Perhaps your Mechanic has already verified the FV is active (which, at a minimum, confirms the +12V to run the system is present), but, if your FV is inactive, and you need a suggestion on where to measure with a voltmeter to confirm/deny +12V give a shout.

    A common TR problem, and we've been guessing that it's brothers could have the same tendencies too if using the same vintage Bosch solenoid. The starter on your V8 is not as easily accessed as on a TR, but you'd need to know the voltage on the B (white) start command wire (terminal 50) while the key is in pos III and the solenoid is not firing -- if +12V, something "open" in the solenoid winding; if +8~10V, sort of normal -- if you do a search on "TR solenoid" you should get the background threads on adding a relay or getting a WAI solenoid; if less than a few volts, probably something bad in the ignition switch or wiring. Good Hunting!
     
  7. KKSBA

    KKSBA F1 World Champ
    Rossa Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    14,930
    SBarbara-La Jolla CA
    Full Name:
    KKSBA
    For lack of performance at low RPM's, check your spark plug extenders for pinholes. This can cause the condition you describe. To check, pull the spark plug wires off every spark plug and the extender will usually come out with the plug wire, if not pull those off the plugs and then check for any burn marks or discolorations. Sometimes the pinholes are easy to spot, they literally are burns straight through the plastic caused by electrical arcing from the plug wire to the block. These are cheap to replace, and you should carry a couple spares with you in the cars tool case.

    For no-crank problem, check your fusebox very carefully as this is definitely a weak spot on the Mondial's. Specifically, check the wiring harnesses that plug onto the fuse block. Unplug them, and check for burn marks on the plastics on both the connector and the socket header (where the plug connects on the fuse block). You may have a burned connector, or loose pins.

    It doesn't hurt to also pull every relay out and clean the pins with contact cleaner. Note any relays that look burned or discolored.

    PS - A wild guess about your stalling --- You might have a problem with the clutch replacement you had done. You will need a better mechanical expert than I am to chime in on possibilities for this. I confine myself to mostly electrical issues...

    Cheers,
    KK
     
  8. porphy

    porphy Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 9, 2009
    1,203
    LouisvilleKY/Switzld
    Full Name:
    Randall Gatz
    Would you be so kind and give your source for cheap spark plug extenders for the Mondial?

    Kind regards,

    Randall
     
  9. PV Dirk

    PV Dirk F1 Veteran

    Jul 26, 2009
    5,401
    Ahwatukee, AZ
    #9 PV Dirk, Jun 26, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2011
    You said you replaced the fuse box. Some believe it is a good idea to replace all the relays at the same time, they get old.

    I don't know the conversations you have had with your mechanic but from your description it sounds like they are throwing parts at it without doing thorough diagnostic. That is if all the fixes you mention are to fix your drivability issues.

    I agree with checking for vaccuum leaks and testing out the areas of your fuel injection. You are best to find someone who is familiar with these old bosch units.

    How much do you drive this car? Has it had these problems from the time you purchased the car or are the problems recent, did they just start? If your car has always run like this, there is a chance that your car has many issues/deferred maintenance and your mechanic is just going through what should have been done in the past.

    You don't want to run your car real hard until it is warmed up and what your car is doing is not at all normal. It should be smooth power right from idle. There is no turbo like boost of power in these engines typically, the boost you feel is probably the engine getting close to where it should be running.

    Does anyone have any thoughts on timing? When was the last belt service? Sorry, I see your last belt service was in 06. By most standards it is due for belts. The Ferrari dealer may be the place to send it if your local place is grasping at straws. Don't be afraid to pay a couple hours for diagnostic, then the true issues can be fixed.
     
  10. KKSBA

    KKSBA F1 World Champ
    Rossa Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    14,930
    SBarbara-La Jolla CA
    Full Name:
    KKSBA
    It has been a couple of years since I bought them. I recall them being around $16 from the dealer. It looks like time has doubled their price.

    Check ricambiamerica for them.
     

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