Also, is it better or easier to fill the oilsystem and bleed it prior to put the pumpkin back?
The clutch reservoir is shared with the brakes so you may need to bleed your brakes too if you lost a lot of fluid. Always bleed the brakes/clutch with the key in the ignition and turned far enough so the ABS pump gets activated (you'll hear quite a pronounced Buzz of the pump). Its in the workshop manual if you have a copy. The pedal will need pumping and teh WSM says you may need to pull the pedal back up by hand but I didn't find that in my case??? BTW Using method above is actually a one man operation since the tube acts as a one way valve so you dont need to do the pump/tighten the nipple etc. Its very easy to do and very reliable. NB Do it AFTER youve reassembled anything - I tried to do it the other way round and couldn't put my clutch housing back on as I had made the bearing max out - you need a but of hydraulic play in the system to push the housing on then bleed afterwards.
The job start to finish including triple seal - a few other seals etc https://www.clubscuderia.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?45388-348-DIY-quot-Restoration-quot&p=751716#post751716
Is there a specific rotational position for the flywheel to the center engine out axis? Can't see any mark or hint?
Now done the work - almost, but have a problem bleeding the system. I have a vacuum pump attached to the bleeding nipple and the fluid in the reservoir is kept full, but I get mostly air air and more air out from the bleeding nipple. Some fluid too, but for how long is reasonable to vacuum pump the system? How much fluid does the system contain? As soon as I get some fluid out from the nipple, I check the level in the reservoir and it shrinks accordingly with the bleeding. The clutch pedal is in its rest position (in line with brake) but it is very soft - no resistance, so the system is definitely not free from air. Some air trapped? Suggestion appreciated.
I am with Mitchell on this. I have a Capri vac bleeder that works well for flushing fluid. But, I recently rebuilt the calipers on my M6 and the vac bleeder just couldnt get the air out. I swapped to my 15 year old Motiv and got it done. There is something special about pushing the fluid out rather than sucking it out. I think too much is lost around the bleeder threads for the vac system to be as efficient as the Motiv. The Motiv works great so long as you have the proper adapter.
I'm starting to think that my bleeder sucks in air from outside via the treads when I unscrew it a little.
I don't want to hijack the thread, but with the Teaves system, is it better to use a vacuum bleeder or the Motive pressure based bleeder?
I recently replaced the clutch in my 348. When attempting to bleed the system I had the same issue. Once I loosened the braided pressure line exiting the clutch master cyl and "burped" the air from the master cylinder with the pedal while holding a towel around the loose fitting to catch any fluid. Once done the bleeding process was successful. The master cylinder seems to have trouble filling with fluid once air locked....