vacuum Lines for New Capristo

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You have this valve in the kit, correct?
"Boost Pressure Control Valve PIERBURG 7.01024.02.0 "

This post helped me: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/138022480/

 

I think I understand what you're saying. You may be overthinking it.
If you were to follow the line from the actual bypass valve it is a rubber line that goes to the hard line which runs along the engine cross member. From then it turns back into a rubber line to the original solenoid location.
All you simply do is unplug it from the factory solenoid, and plug it into the pierburg valve.

It sounds like you were running an entire new line from the pierberg to the capristo valve.

 

Some of the confusion is probably because the Capristo instructions say to do exactly this. My car came with a recently installed Cap valve and when I read up on it, I thought it was installed wrong because the vacuum line was plumbed into the hard line along the crossmember instead of directly to the solenoid.

 

It’s a cleaner install if you pipe it to the hardline as factory intended. That’s how mine is. Capristo instructions and the tubing supplied is long enough and your directed to go from bypass to solenoid and not use the hardline. Which didn’t make sense to me. In saying that the hardline is often damaged and can be a source of a leak.

 

I think when the instructions say "to bypass valve," they're likely assuming that you're keeping the line in place as it is, including the hard line

 

Perhaps but why provide 2 meters of tubing.

Either way mine is plumbed into the hardline and works amazingly well. One of the best upgrades for the car.

 

There are 3 thermocoupler ECUs with 3 thermocoupler probes in the system.

There are known to fail, usually just intermittently.
The expensive fix it to replace everything. The better way is to test them, clean them and do just what is necessary. The youtuber 'rattarossa' made a video on this.
I was having intermittent slow down lights and pulled all three out, tested them with heat and a volt gauge and fixed my issue.

The secondary air injection Code is something else unrelated. Sounds like a cracked hose, or something leaking air in that system.

If you just want the 1448 to go away for now, and troubleshoot later. Simply take the probe out of the exhaust and neatly zip tie it away. Install a cap on the bung, And your code will go away. That bypass probe is only there for one function, and that's just to tattle to the ECU if the bypass is open too long. If it's unplugged, it's simply not there to tattle, it's not used for any other function. People that run the bypass open all the time just remove the probe.


Here's I post I found with a guy with the exact same two codes, not sure if this helps or not https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/p1448-obii-code.319195/

 

Where in Florida?

 

North of Jacksonville.
Little far for help.
Any progress? Did you try just removing the bypass probe at least for troubleshooting?

 

1448 will never go away if you’re using the Cappy Bypass with straight pipes. Have you removed the cats ?

 

1448 is the code for the bypass valve. has nothing to do with the cats.
If everything is working 100% (valve, probe, ecu, vacuum) it will not report a code.
If one of those is broken. you will get a 1448

OR if you one of the many of us either not running a bypass valve, have it wired open, or are using a electronic valve controller (me) you can simply remove the "tattle tale" probe out and (assuming the ecu/probe are good) you'll never get a 1448 again. So many people guessing or regurgitating bad info from people who have zero experience with the subject

 

I personally have been through all this and discussed it with techs at Capristo. You don’t have to believe me. When cats are removed, it changes the flow / heat or whatever. The result is 1448. My valve is not wired open or controlled with anything after market.

I speak the truth.

 

I got you man.

I forget the exact numbers since I tested them last year, but the way you test the ECU and thermal probes is to give them 12 volts. And they read back 1.5 or something. When you put a blowtorch on to them, right at 500° or so they'll show 5 volts. When they go bad, they'll show erratic things like zero or 12 volts etc.

Anyway, 1448 is triggered when the bypass probe is showing 5 volts when the computer says it's supposed to be closed. Is there a possibility that your valve is not closing all the way?, Cuz if the valve is closed, there should be no hot exhaust flow over it to heat that probe up.

If your car really is triggering a 1448 all the time, and you're tired of it, I would also suggest you try simply removing the probe from the exhaust and just zip tying it safely out of the way.
Remember, the computer is simply looking for a hot probe when the valve is closed to signal an air, any other conditions in it doesn't care. Example, it's not looking for a probe That's always cold.

 

Did you run the hose direct to the valve or use the OE metal tube?