How I Did My Mondial Top Shock Mounts

What color is your car?

 

Thanks for sharing the info from your project!

2cam

 

BillyD- thanks for sharing. It's great to see that you you actually did the work yourself and are willing to share how you did it. Gives me inspiration!

 

Bill - I am interested in doing a similar conversion on my '85 mondial. It's been a while since your first post - can you explain the second picture where something is welded onto the metal plate? Also, now that a year has passed, are you satisfied with this mod? Is there anything you would do different? Thanks

 

Thank you - When you say "a round washer" do you mean a cupped washer or a top spring cup something like this? https://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/7720-168/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5auGBhDEARIsAFyNm9GXOG2TxM_9bbmlw8HVbsxV-XUqgfG95b66vJPzbgGMHRfvLeio-lAaAjO2EALw_wcB

 

Bill (or others who have converted to a QA1 set up): do you see any issues using the stock top shock mount with the QA1s?

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This is how I did mine.
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This looks like the best solution. Please provide any details of how you machined the original aluminum top spring retainer. Also, did you make any changes related to the mounting stud which is 3/8" on the QA-1 versus 12mm on the original Koni? Thanks for weighing in

 

Machined the top spring retainer on my lathe down to 2.5" o.d., opened the spherical bearing out to 3/8" for the QA- 1 shock rod to pass thru, top nut, and washer, done. Made my own bottom bushing with Delrin, and a steel core.

 

we followed wilkrod's lead and my talented nephew machined the top spring retainer to 2.5" and made bushings for the silent bloc or bushing above the top spring retainer to reduce the 12mm hole (original) to 3/8" of the QA1 stud top conversion - really appreciate the help
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From what I've gleaned here, please LMK if I got everything right.

For the Top Mount:
- The QA1 stud top from the SS100SD kit is 3/8" diameter.
- You want the weight to rest on a plate that is shshkebab'd on the shock assembly; not just pressing against the top mount housing.

1) Some people just widen the stock shock top mount uniball to 3/8" and lathe the retainer down to 2.5" so the new spring can slip over it.
- This is clearly the cheaper option.
- My stock shocks/struts are in decent condition so I may just keep/sell them off vs use them for parts.

2) Others take a square plate steel and find a way to mount the shock through it.

Q: I suspect this may be a better way to make a mount between the DIY frame mount plate and the shock.
Steinjager.com sells a 3/8" uniball and retainer clip for 18.99/ea
https://steinjager.com/shop/0.375-Bore-Snap-Ring-Uniball-and-Cup-1-Pack-J0024082

I used a similar uniball when I had to fab my custom shock tops for my lemons tbird. I got the idea when looking at top mounts for a GT3
https://www.tccoa.com/threads/s4gunns-tbird-front-suspension-options-summary-bilstein-insert-diy.178561/#post-1909561

You then use the stud top kit supplied bolt to bolt everything together. Maybe with an extra washer.

Q: The only part I'm trying to spec out now is what to do about the spring retainer (what the stock shock top has).
I don't think the other DIY shock tops did much here (the pressure of the springs will hold everything in place.
Others suggested 7720-168 as a retainer to use.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/QA1-7720-168-Coil-Spring-Bolt-In-Adapter-F-Body-and-GM-A-Body-Cars,264136.html

Q: Any opinions here?

For the Bottom Mount
Wilkrod says he just replaced the bushing that comes with the QA1 shocks with his own made out of a center tube lathed to the rigth dimensions and lathing the delrin bushings.

I see now that QA1BUSH is the item number from unobtanium supply if I just wanted to throw money at the problem.

http://unobtainiumsupply.com/UnobtainiumSupply_Product_List.PDF
One set covers all 4 corners. Do I have that correctly?

 

Gunn,
I did indeed add a top plate to capture the spring/shock assembly. This then bolts to the OEM location. So you have the shock, spring, keeper spring, QA1 top hat, oem top sleeve, new plate that captures the shock rod.
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Okay, dumb question:

I understand the necessity of the thrust washers on the bottom spring perch (so you can spin the plate up and raise/lower the car) but why does the keeper spring even exist and some folks have it above and others below the 2.5" spring that holds the weight of the car?

I looked for this part to understand it better and I can't seem to find it.
As long as there's no slop between the bottom of the perch and whatever is on top sandwiching it down (like the top cap/DIY 4"x4" bracket or stock top mount), isn't that good enough?

 

If your spring is short enough it will be loose at full droop if you don't use a keeper spring, it can go on either top or bottom.

 

Got it.
In your setup, did you go with these springs and were keeper springs necessary?
2 10HT350 front springs
2 12HT300 rear springs

 

Yes, and Yes

 

wilkrod - just finished a QA1 coilover conversion on my 85 mondial and used the 12HT300 rear springs from QA1. I can now see why you needed either a keeper spring OR a 14" long spring instead because at full drop, the 12" spring falls away from the mounts. What keeper spring did you use?

Also, any opinion on whether it is better to use the keeper springs to remedy this problem or go to a 14" spring instead?? Thanks for the help

 

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