I DID finally get the LH axle out after soaking in PB Blaster again overnight and whacking with a 5 lb sledge. An impact hammer did nothing. I was so happy I went fishing and caught this bass. The pond is 50 feet from my garage. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I finally got the axle boot dilemma sorted out with considerable assistance from Ray Garbe at TRutlands. It seems the same boot was used on just about every Ferrari CV joint EXCEPT the outboard 512TR. They were apologetic and have ordered the correct boots along with the correct little clamps. I'll probably get them next week. Here you can see the difference side-by-side. New boot top, stock boot bottom. Note that the new boot does not slide all the way down the flange, making it impossible to apply the clamping strap. Image Unavailable, Please Login Just to make sure the inboard side fit, I did a trial fitment and all is good. The smaller opening lines up with the notch in the axle shaft. Image Unavailable, Please Login FYI, the part number for the outboard (wheel side) boots is 209184. On the photo I saw, there was no inner rubber lip. We shall see.
Unfortunately only one boot arrived from Italy, so the installation of the boots and axles is delayed another week. After speaking with my friend Dino, a Ferrari mechanic, this is standard operating procedure when dealing with Italian suppliers and something he has to explain to his customers on a daily basis. So we wait. Meanwhile, the coolant system and fuel tanks/pumps were removed. Start by removing the shroud for the oil radiator (one 13 mm bolt - OK, maybe 10 mm) Image Unavailable, Please Login
After removing that shroud I found a part of the wiring harness (just to the right of the bungee cord) with 4 wires. The wire ends have no terminals and are covered in heat shrink tubing (looks factory). Anyone know what those wires are for? I did not think these cars had any options. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next remove the plates in the front of the rear wheel arches (nine 10 mm bolts and washers) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login You will then have complete access to the fan. Disconnect the wiring harness and remove the four 10 mm nuts and washers and then the fan itself Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next remove the aluminum pipes that make up the firewall coolant system. Cut the connecting hoses gently after removing the clamps. Remember which pipes go where. There are also two clamps that suspend the pipes to the firewall (10 mm nuts). The small hose from the thermostat housing goes to the coolant reservoir and the hose just below the thermostat housing disappears into the central tunnel and goes up front to the heater core. More on this later. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
After removing all pipes, take out the radiators. There is a bracket at the top of each radiator with two 10 mm bolts and underneath the frame are two 17 mm bolts that screw into cage nuts in the plastic bottom of the radiator. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login This is the view with the radiator out. The RH radiator also houses a temperature sender which needs to be disconnected. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The RH radiator came out like I knew what I was doing. On the LH radiator one of the 17 mm bolts was rusted onto the cage nut. This bent the plastic housing so the nut and bolt just spun. There was no room to get a wrench on the nut without cutting away some of the plastic. I had new Wizard Cooling aluminum radiators, so I was not too concerned. Even after all the chopping, the radiator can still be reused Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
On the RH side, the vacuum line that goes to the top of the engine is attached by two clamps Image Unavailable, Please Login
This is the inside of the black coolant hose that goes to the front heater core. Nasty. Replacement in silicone have been ordered. Image Unavailable, Please Login
great job you are doing but when you write the bolt sizes it is very confusing to me ( and I think also to others ). in the metric system we never say to a 6 mm thread it is 10, 10 is the size for the wrench you need to open the bolt, but the bolt is a 6 mm. same as the 17 mm - this is a 10 mm bolt with a 17 mm head. standard european metric sizes are: 8 mm head for 5 mm bolts 10 mm head for 6 mm bolts 11 mm heads for 7 mm bolts 13 mm heads for 8 mm bolts ( older systen has been 14 mm heads, the japanese use 12 mm heads ) 17 mm hedas for 10 mm bolts 19 mm heads for 12 mm bolts
Sorry for the confusion. When I say 10 mm nut or bolt I mean the size of the wrench needed to remove same. Almost all the fasteners take 10, 13 or 15 mm sockets, with a few 17, 19, 8 and one 36 (crank bolt) thrown in for fun.
Fuel tank removal is a bit more time consuming. First remove the drain plugs and get out as much fuel as possible. Then remove the fuel filler tube from the LH tank by removing these weird hose clamps. Careful not to loosen completely or one of the little nuts will fall out. This is the type of clamp: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next remove the flexible vent hose that goes from the LH tank to the filler neck and the flexible line that goes between tanks. Use extreme caution, the tanks are aluminum and the nipples prone to breakage. There are rubber sleeves where the plastic meets the aluminum. Don't tear it up. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now remove the overly complicated vent lines that eventually lead to the anti-rollover valve and the charcoal canister. Squeeze the open side with a pliers so the other edges come loose and wiggle them (again gently) off the o-rings. I had a photo of this but it did not come out. Here you see the o-rings Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next remove the two fuel lines that go between the tanks (one large, one smaller). I gently cut the tubing after removing the clamps so as not to damage the nipples. The smaller one goes through this hole in the frame. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now we go underneath the car. Remove the two underside panels that protect the tanks (a whole bunch of 10 mm bolts and washers. Place panels aside. Remove the shifter linkage. My shifter was working well, so I wanted to keep the same adjustment. Holding the connector steady, I measured the thread distance from the end of the rod to the nut, and then counted the number of revolutions (8) from start to fully backed off. The most forward locking nut will be left in place (mark with paint pen). On reassembly I thread connector back on until it touches the forward nut, and then turn the rear nut 8 revolutions (reverse thread) and thread the rod into the connector until it touches the rear nut and tighten Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login . Easy peazy.
Now remove the four nuts (10 or 13 mm, I can't remember) on the tank brackets (front side of bottom of tanks). There are two rectangular metal spacers that fit above and below the insulating rubber on each of these brackets. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The fuel level sending unit is housed in the RH tank. Unhook the electrical connector. Image Unavailable, Please Login
At this point the tanks will be be held in place by the rear portion of the straps and should drop down a few inches to allow access to the electrical and fuel lines up top. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Remove the 10 mm nut and washer from the top of the fuel pump and gently wiggle fuel lines free (o-rings). Then disconnect the electrical fitting, remove the final strap and lower fuel tank out of chassis. Repeat process on opposite tank. Be prepared to take a gasoline shower. Also note which fuel lines go where. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
To remove fuel pumps from tank, unscrew giant ring nut by hitting it counter-clockwise with hammer and punch (or screwdriver). Be patient, there are lots of threads. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login