I have all my remotes the red one and the two black ones and I have my PIN Code. First, none of the remotes work. They have new batteries but there is no response from the car. The red light on the remote goes on when I push it but no beep from the car...nothing.All three remotes have the same issue. The car will lock and open manually but not with the fob. I tried to bypass the remotes and start the car using the PINCODE with that ridiculous ignition on/off procedure they have but that does not work either. I checked all the fuses all good. Battery is good...new. Car lights come on, engine check OK, just no response to turn it over. I suppose my immobilizer is shot....could that be the case? Usually even if that is the case the key fobs at least open and close the doors, in my case the key fobs do nothing. Any ideas?
Happened to me once in a 360. I was at a gas station. I rang my mechanic and he said sometimes cellphone sites especially around service stations can interfere with the remote (there was a cellphone tower above) I pushed the car off the forecourt and down the hill a bit and the remote worked and car started. The remote batteries were new from the garage.
Hey, you never know! Did they all work before changing the fob batteries? Or, did you have the problem and then changed the fob batteries? Just looking for a common denominator. Could one fob be "always on"? Stuck button? ie blocking the signal of the others.
They worked before. The car has been sitting for months. Dunno if that has anything to do with it. I tried all three remotes...nothing. No beep no lock working. Also I tried the PIN code so many times...and nothing. I dont think it a cell phone tower the car is in my garage and never had a problem there before. I am at a loss. No one else seems to have had this problem of totally unresponsive fobs and PIN not working. Any other ideas?
I will try taking the batteries out of the other remotes when and try again, but I think I tried that.
What is the dash LED doing? Is it blinking? There is an immobilizer fuse. If you're getting no response at all that's the first thing I'd check.
Do you have a Marmitek or similar ir receiver/ transmitter in the house for remote changing of tv stations, when these have a fault they screwup car remotes as on similar frequency
No nothing like that. The car is in a garage and I was always able to start it up in that location in the past. Now for some reason none of my remote work...no chirp no sound nothing. Tried starting with PIN..nothing. The alarm light beeps in the car like normal. The battery is good, brake lights work, engine OK...all lights on dash come one when key is in ignition. When I put the key in and turn to position 2 the car beeps for about 10 seconds then the beep goes off. Try to start....nothing.
Sounds like you put in the wrong batteries. They should be 12V and there are similar 3V batteries the same size that will not power anything in the fob.
Have you tried disconnecting the car battery, wait 30 minutes, Cool off a bit. Re-connect battery and let the car re-boot.
Does the car engine still turn over? Not sure about the 430, but on the 360 it just keeps turning and want start?
Ok I found out what is happening. The 5amp alarm fuse is blown and ever time I replace it, it blows again. Something must be shorting it...any ideas?
I suggest you contact 360trev and see what he says. If you don't know who he is, search for his posts. Might save you a few grand.
If it is the immobilizer module you can get a corvette module and it will work except for the alarm horn. A lot cheaper than OEM.
It's not the immobilizer it's the siren. You can try and work around the real problem or just replace the siren. I think you can find them discounted to around $300 or try the GM siren option.
Get the $40 GM fix and see if that solves the problem. If it does decide if you want the OEM component...at ~ $350. Don’t go with a second hand OEM unit... probably same age, probably fail again.
Likely the alarm siren is shorting. When the internal backup battery inside the siren leaks, the acid eats the circuit and components. This could result in a short, although most of the time it causes an open circuit or failed components. Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat