P0300 - Multiple Misfire issues | Page 2 | FerrariChat

P0300 - Multiple Misfire issues

Discussion in '360/430' started by zuby84, Oct 23, 2016.

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  1. KILOCHARLIE

    KILOCHARLIE Formula Junior

    Oct 14, 2012
    321
    Cardiff, UK
    Full Name:
    KC
    I had the same issue with my 360 last year. Drove me nuts but was slightly different as it usually only happened when warm. It sometimes did it when cold but switching off and restarting usually cured it. I'm still unsure of the cause but I am pretty certain its actually the ecus that are causing the bank to shut down rather than anything mechanical. I suspect is actually where the car is trying to put itself into limp mode. I persisted with the car and eventually it got worse to where it would actually put itself into limp mode each time rather than just throw a code. My car is fine now it seems and while I am not 100% sure what fixed it I would recommend using techron fuel cleaner, cleaning the pedal assembly connections, cleaning air filters and making sure the running in procedure is followed correctly after resetting. I did all of these and it got better although it may also be related to my ecus burning out as this happened around the same time. This may have been a coincidence though. I had the ecus repaired for less than £100 a pop here in the uk so it might be worth getting that done too to rule it out. Check my previous posts. As for a recommendation of a garage to help if you are really stuck try roger at the ferrari centre maidstone. He does my annuals and is a top guy, even worth me making the trip all the way from Cardiff each time.

    Message me if I can help further. Good luck though and please post here if you get it sorted. It drove me nuts for months and while I'm still not too sure why its fixed, it would be good to know for others.
     
  2. honda.vfr

    honda.vfr Karting

    Jun 22, 2012
    134
    Ostrava, CZ (EU)
    Full Name:
    Milan Pukl
    Steady 0.09V on the O2 sensor is not good at all. The value refers to rich fuel condition and causes ECU to reduce the amount of fuel, and thats why the misfires can occur. But for you is important to source the root cause of this. When not MAFs, intake gaskets, ECUs, O2 sensors and other things swapping will not help, I would try to check the spark plug gaps between electrodes. Just the smaller gap on one SP can cause bad combustion without misfire putting a lot of unburnt fuel into exhaust and fooling the sensor. The same with fuel injectors, if one gives more fuel during the injection pulse, the same situation will occur and will affect the whole bank...
     
  3. zuby84

    zuby84 Rookie

    Aug 23, 2009
    43
    thanks for the suggestions guys - I am relaying everything to my guy to check out and will let you know when he reports back - i dont think its the engine ECU's kilocharlie as we swapped them and the issue remained on the same bank unless you are referring to a different ECU?
     
  4. 24000rpm

    24000rpm F1 Rookie

    #29 24000rpm, Feb 21, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  5. zuby84

    zuby84 Rookie

    Aug 23, 2009
    43
    Hi all, thought i would update this thread. After ruling out all external factors we concluded that there must've been something iffy internally. Just been to see my engine in bits and it needs new valves as a number of them are bent and excessive cylinder lining wear on a few of the cylinders. I'm not an engineer but the engine guy was showing me and there was as much as 3 mm difference between the worn one and the others which i am led to believe is massive. Cylinder sleeves are extortionate from Ferrari so looking to see if they can be machined. All the other parts costs look palatable from what i can see. i will report back when the engine is repaired to confirm if the issue with the misfire codes has been fixed.

    Engine only done 50k miles and none of them particularly hard - never been tracked or anything like that but the rebuild should see me good for a good while yet. Hopefully!
     
  6. 24000rpm

    24000rpm F1 Rookie

    would you elaborate on what difference is 3mm?

    sleeves? valves?

    What exactly is 3mm difference?


     
  7. zuby84

    zuby84 Rookie

    Aug 23, 2009
    43
    It was 3mm difference between the circumference of cylinder sleeves - i think cylinder 4 was the worst but all very showing excessive wear on that one bank.

    And im not technically minded so apologies if i am getting the terminology wrong.
     
  8. rmarchjr

    rmarchjr Formula Junior

    May 21, 2012
    576
    North east, USA
    Personally I would NOT attempt repair on the sleeves. They are lined w Nickasil and after boring would need recoating. Where will you find oversized pistons for the larger bore? The nicking process is very hard to get right although many claim they can do it.
    Personally - I would find a low mileage street engine from a breaker and avoid attempting to re-engineer a very expensive engine. Rebuilding with stock part =yes but as you found very expensive, replacement used engine =yes, rebuild with aftermarket parts=NO, not worth the many headaches. Just my 2 cents.
     
  9. rmarchjr

    rmarchjr Formula Junior

    May 21, 2012
    576
    North east, USA
    If you can get Mahle to speak w you, they make the pistons & sleeves, I know a few people looking for a reasonable replacement part. If you say the word Ferrari, I think you'll find the conversation over- they are the OEM supplier so you know where their loyalty lays.
     
  10. 24000rpm

    24000rpm F1 Rookie

    hi, i have no clue about these things but with my rudimentary knowledge, isn't he just going to replace the damaged sleeve with a new OEM one and a new OEM piston and call it a day?


     
  11. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    26,431
    socal
    Probably means 0.3mm out or 12 thou to Americans. In chevy terms now you gotta bore out 20 over.


    Crazy thing is how valves bent. Likely not full diangosis when gasket went causing more damage seen today.
     
  12. zuby84

    zuby84 Rookie

    Aug 23, 2009
    43
    So aftermarket liners are a no go after a bit of digging. I looked on the Mahle aftermarket webpage and liners not available so me thinks i will be buying direct / OEM.

    I am not too keen on a replacement engine as the cost will be about the same as a rebuild but then you dont know how many miles is left on that one - at least this way you retain some sort of control / knowledge that it should last you a fair bit longer.

    Going to go down the OEM route and source all OEM parts required and see how i get on . While the engine is out should i be upgrading or checking any ancillaries?
     

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