Replacing the injectors?

Just fitted them with new o-rings tonight
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And I thought my engine bay was clean. That looks like a picture form the factory during build.

 

I know this is older thread but convinmced me to just buy the new ones as the price to buy a tester / cleaner is the same price as 6-8 new ones. I havent taken mine apart yet but look like the original steel and i can smell a very rich mixture out of the exhaust.

 

when you buy new ones take the brass ones, not the steel ones

 

Will do. I appreaciate all your advice in all threads.

Danke Veilmals

 

Remember to adjust both side airflow's, "as it is shown on workshop manual" Changing parts is modern car thing, not that I can argue that steel corrodes from inside injector, but many readers out there will do fine, if they get cars adjusted correctly.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/143977609-post14.html

This year I changed ignition leads and now car "sneeze" as reply for small gas pedal pressure, I don't think Testarossa can be any smoother then one I have now, so nothing was broken, but still got great results.

 

Mikael,

Your manometer appears to have two fluid columns attached to each bank of the engine by way of a 'T' in the line. Why not use just one column for each bank?

If you have any DIY recommendations for your balancing procedure (or a recommended link), it would be much appreciated. Unless of course, you found the WSM procedure to be as good as it gets....

TIA,
Vincenzo

 

Because;
- I got four cylinder setup and used T-union to couple two together, no need to make new setup. Also readout is slower, that is better. (many of you will have problem with that red automatic transimission oil getting surged inside engine, that badly adjust they can be)
- Also there are MIG welder nossle's inside lines, to make flow slower.
MOST IMPORTANT THING IS:
Take vacuum from both side vacuum ports with T-union, so everything works while you adjust, warmup regulator also (for cars with mechanical one)

Actually WorkShopManual is good for the job. But main thing is to close bypass screws and only after all is done, open them up and lift idle where you want it.

What WSM does not tell is; there are two stages of adjustment:

1. pedal play and mechanism play is deleted by actually having friend in cabin and hold rpm level over idle (1800rpm or something) and then you adjust flow leves correct, keep it steady and while you adjust, it is not easy job.

2. Idle is only done after main flow is correct and this is to drop idle down, get CO% correct, then lift idle back up with bypass screws, then check CO% again. You might have to adjust main flow if air bypas is too great, but this is not issue, as long as you get them as close as you can, because both units will "auto adjust" them self, but only to the surtain point and after that you get hesitation. and car gets very difficult to get moving from stand still.
Remember that cooler fans, AC will affect idle. (I have new type coolerfans because I got early car and they take so much current and by this way I can have idle more constant, but it should work with originals)

Then check everything, drive car around and re-check it. Everything settle in place and Bosch Jetronic is very accurate, but also affected with smalest alteration.
Then there are fuel pressure regulators and cold start prosedure...

 

Does anyone sell replacement injectors for a 512TR?

 

bosch

 

I thought Bosch stopped making these injectors 20 years ago. Any source for Bosch 512TR injectors.

 

what have you inside just now?

 

I still have the original injectors (69,000 miles)

 

Dr. Jimbo, if your injectors are the same as for the '86 Testarossa, I purchased 12 Bosch injectors p/n 0437502047 from autohaus AZ in December 2021 for $19.89 each. Also, the large green seals (Febi) for $0.49 each. EDoug

 

the 86 testarossa has a K/KE injection, the TR an electronic injection. so totally different

original there are bosch inside ( as I know ? ) and then there is a number on. with this number you can see in comparison lists in what othwer cars those are inside and then may look to find some if bosch not has anymore. but when you know the original flow rate you may look aftermarket to find some

 

I checked with local NAPA
Bosch injectors no longer available
Volvo injector interchange but $119 each

 

I get an intermittent CEL from injector 5 on the left bank (7-12). I will dump a can of Sea Foam cleaner in the tank and then go for a high rev 2 hour drive (an "Italian Tune-up") and see if that clears things up, Otherwise there is a place nearby in St. Pete that will test/clean for $25 each.

 

would be great if you could post the original bosch parts number here. may be someone still have some?