Hard starting when hot

Experiment with 1/2 to full throttle when cranking. Do not pump the gas. When hot my car needs almost the full boot and once it catches I let off the gas to avoid zinging the rpm's.

 

Get a gear reduction starter, best improvement you can make to your dino.

 

Larry

Whilst we do not get prolonged periods of very high ambient temperatures in the UK, I had to learn how to start my dino. Sounds odd but there is a knack to how you start the car, some use 1/4 throttle and pump twice, others do it differently.

I start my dino exactly as you describe for cold starting, hot is another issue.

IMO what happens in those few minutes after the engine is shut off is that the fuel in the carb bowls evaporates leaving them possibly dry, especially the one over the water housing.

You need to give the fuel time to fill the carb bowls and purge the system of airlock, vapour etc. Then crank the engine. Try various methods and stick to the one the suits your car.

Gear reduction starters are a good conversion as they do turn the engine over faster and draws less current, which does compromise the ignition system.

Tony

 

Hi Larry, if correctly set up with good compression your Dino should start when hot without touching the throttle , avoid pumping the throttle when the engine is hot as this will soak the spark plugs ........ if that regime doesn't work try this .......... turn on the fuel pumps and wait for them to slow down, push the throttle to the floor and hold it down; now crank over the engine and be brave ......... it may take a little time but it will start; as it fires lift off and feather the throttle to coax her into life, if you drop the spark plugs get a new set fitted as in my experience it's a waste of time trying to clean them. Good luck Penny

 

A few tips. First the gear reduction starter is a must and easy to install. Pm me if u want the info to buy it direct from the guy who actually makes them. Now onto the starting procedure ; when cold turn ignition on and wait until u hear the pump fill up the carbs approx 30seconds. Then push the accelerator down to the floor 3 times then push down a 4th time but only down approx 3/8ths and then turn the key to start. When hot push the accelerator all the way to the floor and keep it there then turn the key to start. The above all works for me and I hope it helps you. Have fun

 

I had a similar hot starting problem. It was the plugs. I checked them first, they looked good, so went on to other things, like coil, grounds, rotor, carb float adjustment, etc. Then went back to plugs. Found out the plugs were not gapped properly, and maybe had too much carbon, so replaced the plugs, and that solved the problem. Hope is an easy fix for you too.

 

Take a peek at my thread on hot start issues. There was a lot of great input on ignition checks and fuel delivery checks. I had an underlying issue of floats set too low - so hot AND cold start was a prob. Set them correctly and huge improvement in cold start, but then I noticed hot start was crummy. What I've learned is that letting the fuel pump spin for a good 30+ to 45 seconds really makes a big difference in how quickly it fires up when hot and how it settles down after starting. i was having issues of difficult start when hot (great when cold btw), and goofy running right after start. Like a big air bubble caused by vapor lock. What made the biggest improvement was that trick about allowing the pump to run longer before cranking.

Spinning the motor faster with a better starter should help, but I was motivated by all the great starting cars with the orig starter.

 

Congratulations!
Nothing better than a quick starting Dino. Have you gotten used to the different pitch of the gear reduction starter's sound? It took a bit for me to become accustom to it but that endearing connection to Dino and its sounds are all part of ownership.

 

Please send me info on starter.
Thanks!

 

Perfect.....Dino's should not pop at all if tuned correctly. Do you know what re-jetting they did? Handy info for others.

Another great tune up and often ignored is a 4 wheel laser alignment. Get someone who knows how to set the chassis up and have the shims in stock to adjust. Transforms the car.
Tony

 

Are Dino alignment specs like those for Daytona, based on "fully loaded" vehicle, apparently often ignored when checking and setting the alignment on latter (but makes a noticeable difference) ?
Just curious.

 

Doh, didnt notice that!!

chassis tune up is a must every 5 years.

 

Yes, front / rear static laden spec - full of fuel, 2 people and no baggage..........doesnt say what size people though!!

 

... and perhaps more often if the car is driven/used extensively or at least checked for alignment & component condition at every tire replacement.

... and presumably with spare and tool kit ?

Perhaps dependent on delivery market, i.e. U.S. occupants traditionally known to weigh a wee bit more ?

 

Many Ferrari manuals specifically tells how many lbs are put on the seat and how many lbs on the floor. If you think you can tell the difference you should ask to drive for the F1 team.

 

It may be vapor lock. Modern gas is famous for it. Do not expect a 70s car to work perfectly on modern gas. It is a very different product.

 

Thanks, yes the guys who did the laser alignment on my 246 about 5 years ago had a weight specified in the software setup but only for the 308GT4 ++. It was set up for me and wifey!

Perhaps you could let us know the spec for the 246, nothing specified in any manual i have seen except 2 persons and full of fuel.

Tony

 

Modern gas is not our friend

 

If the car was running off the emergency setup how did you not know with no Tach working?