Lessons Learned on Clear Bra Installation

DO NOT LET HIM FREE HAND IT! They use a razor and many times will cut right into the paint when trimming it.

 

I don't think the cutting tape is strong enough for ppf yet. I may be wrong so don't quote me on that. As for the fenders and not having a seam in the middle, they don't have to free hand that. We ALWAYS do a one piece there and it's part of a kit. There's just two options and he chose an easier one. Also every piece of every kit can be extended to get closer to the edges, wrap around the edges or tuck inside around the Ferrari shield for example. If they can't tuck it in there then it should be very close and hard to see. If the installer is very experienced then bulking (custom piece) the fenders shouldn't be an issue for him/her. I have seen paint that was scratched but if done right you'll never touch the paint with a blade.


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Strange. I had my 430 done by xpel in Austin two years ago and there are no seams where you described and its virtually invisible around the hood crest and scuderia shields. As above, make them fix it.

 

The 430 is unique since the fenders are connected. I don't think xpel makes a piece large enough to cover the entire area without a seam. The correct way to do it without the seam in the middle is the use one big piece down the center and then put two seams, one on each fender underneath the shield. These seams should follow the body line right above the side marker. If its done right, they wont be visible.

 

There is, we do it all the time. Really comes down to the installer, plotter and the size of the roll they have. You have to use a 60" roll to cut it out.


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i have clear bra and you can't see the seams or cutouts. probably installer issue

 

This is exactly how mine was done. Now the last shop did apply the fender pieces over top of the original wheel well arch pieces which was not smart. It left thin bubble lines visible close up at the under layer edge.

Also, the large piece for the trunk lid has a flaw in it, like a wrinkle in the roll. It probably came off the production line that way and was not visible at first glance. You kinda have to look for it to find it and it's done it's job pretty well.

Also, the paint job was soft enough on both the 348 and 360 that hard rock impacts can fracture the paint below the film. Over time the fracture will crater from vibration and heat and the paint will turn over, exposing the primer underneath. It appears like a pin head white spot. The way I found to cover it before a re-wrap is to take a sharp exacto knife, carefully cut a slit over top of the white spot. Pry back the wrap with the knife tip and dust out the tiny crater. Add a dot of touch up paint and pack it into the chip. clean up with alcohol mix and let dry. This will greatly reduce the appearance on the chip and buy time until a re-wrap can be done.

 

The installer is the key to a really great job vs. ho hum. Just like everything else out there

My guy removes all badging whenever possible and re-applies OVER the film so no cut outs or trimming.

Great jobs on all the cars he has done for me and his client list reflects his work.

He has one of my cars now for a full front end wrap

I hope they can make it right

 

Ultamateshield.com

They use all the best products and do a great job.
BUT, be prepared to pay for it. They are not cheap.
The value works for me but may not for everyone

Good luck