Maserati Indy thread

A logical conclusion, as it’s the only way it can work. The other cars I have had, including my Fulvia Zagato which uses the same Battani jack fits at a right angles to the sill, which is what confused me. Thanks for your assistance

 

Happy New Year!

I have now completed 1000 kms in my Indy 4.2, and seek clarification in regards to the re-torquing of the cylinder head and valve clearances. In the Indy handbook this is mentioned as a service procedure at 10,000 kms, however in US literature for the later Khamsin and Bora it stipulates 1,000 kms… as the engines are from the same family what would be advisable?

 

I like to retorque the heads the next day after the first warm up and then again after 500 miles. If you already put 1,000 kms go ahead and retorque the heads. I would not hurt to retorque them again after 10,000 kms. Good that you are driving the car!

Ivan

 

Thanks for the advice, much appreciated as always.

Mark

 

I recently ordered a replacement oil pressure sender for my Indy (the type that screws into a banjo fitting held to the block by the low oil pressure switch, I believe the Bora is similar) However the new sender FAE brand is marked 0-8 which I assume is 0-8 bar, as the gauge is marked 0 - 11 bar (0-160 psi) I’m concerned this will cause the gauge to under or over state the oil pressure?

 

The original sending units have not been available for a long time. The unit you have will work but the gauge reading will be too high. You could take a reading using a mechanical pressure gauge at 3,000 rpms and then compare it with the reading using the sending unit. Adding a series resistor to the sending unit would then bring the gauge reading down. It will only be accurate at 3,000 rpms but that is better than the alternative.

Ivan

 

Thank you Ivan, your reply and advice is much appreciated.

Mark

 

My Indy is fitted with the ZF S5- 20 5 speed manual transmission and while gear changes are smooth when warmed up, while cold it’s a little hard to shift. I’ve had success swapping to synthetic gear oil in my Lancia Fulvia, any gear oil suggestions for the Indy that may improve the quality of the shift?
Cheers Mark

 

My Indy behaves the same.
Not surprised however, it takes some time for all that mechanics to warm up and you have to respect it, the gearbox taking the longest time and you have then to change gears slowwwly.
But when warm, the shifts are swift and creamy!
I have not myself considered full synthetics for the gearbox.

 

Redline MTL helped quite a bit with the ZF 5 speed in my Biturbo. Redline makes great stuff and you used to be able to call and talk to their tech guy. Now ?????????????????????????????? Like everything else.

 

I also went to Redline MTL for my E-Type 3.8, a well-known tip within the E-Type community.
That car has indeed an antique Moss gearbox with non-syncro first gear.
In that case after a few hundred miles the behaviour of the gearbox increased substantially.

 

Thank you, good to know that other gearboxes are the same

 

Thanks, much appreciated!

 

Don't worry, ZF gearbox from period are hard to shift when cold. I never tried Redline MTL. I'll do that...