California Top RHT Failure - Hyrdraulic Pump Codes | FerrariChat

California Top RHT Failure - Hyrdraulic Pump Codes

Discussion in 'California/Portofino/Roma' started by wiscobadger, Apr 22, 2024.

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  1. wiscobadger

    wiscobadger Karting
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    Jan 20, 2014
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    Cory Eastman
    #1 wiscobadger, Apr 22, 2024
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2024
    Hey everyone - new California owner here! I purchase a 2011 at a bit of a discount with some top issues disclosed.

    I am starting to investigate what I need to do to get the top working again, I am hoping there may be some expertise here before I just drop the car off at a shop.

    I don't know a whole lot about what happened leading up to the top not working, I received the top closed. Looking behind the headliner by back seat, it does appear someone has used the 10mm key to manually lock the top as there are some scratches where the key goes.

    When I start the car I get the beeping alarm that I believe is saying the roof movement is not complete. It is in Italian because I’m assuming someone tried disconnecting the battery as well?

    When I attempt to operate the top I get the roof failure message. I plugged in my scanner and there was a code of B1002 (Hydraulic valve temperature too hot) and B1510 (Hydraulic pump).

    I checked the fluid for the pump and there is plenty of fluid in the reservoir. It seems to be at a proper level.

    I’ve got a few questions I am hoping I could get some info on:

    1. If the top was manually closed, is there a way to be rid of the beeping message that says “Complete Roof Cycle”. This does not go away when driving. It eventually stops beeping, but comes back after a handful of minutes and beeps again. Is there any sort of reset or calibration needed if the top is moved manually?

    2. Has there been success stories of people just replacing the pump on these tops? I see recommendations for the Top Hydraulics vendor.

    3. With the B1002 Hydraulic valve temperature code showing, could it be that something was binding in the top causing the pump to burn out? I called Ferrari and they said they would likely think the plastic kinematics (roof guides) have broken. Would this cause a pump failure?

    4. If the kinematics have been damaged, has anyone here attempted to replace them on their own? It seems like this repair is referenced in this thread as well as the YouTube video on that thread but I don’t believe I have seen any write ups - https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/california-roof-closing-problem.689535/

    Thanks for any information you all can share!
     
  2. wiscobadger

    wiscobadger Karting
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    I may have answered my own #4 question. I found a link on Ferrari Chat to the Workshop Manual - https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/147800323/

    Section E6.09 of the WSM shows "Replacing the Front Roof shell kinematics latching systems". It doesn't look horrible although it requires you to be comfortable moving the top manually which I don't know if I am, ha.

    It also references a safety rod for keeping the roof in place AV8178 while working on it I believe? I'm assuming that comes with my car somewhere?
     
  3. Minnesota

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    Mar 17, 2020
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    Aaron Harkins
    There are many ways the functioning of the roof on a California can fail. I have run into several temporary issues over the last few years, but nothing that was unable to be reset after completing a full opening and closing cycle. There are a lot of striker plates and sensors, some of which might get stuck if not used often. The roof will also time out if the operation is not completed within a certain amount of time. You just have to wait and then complete it. I could see someone panicking and doing a manual close.

    One of the first issues I had after buying the car was that one of the little trim flaps would not come down every time at the end of the opening cycle. The BCM would not allow the roof to close until the opening cycle was complete. Eventually I got the flaps to close. After a completing a few cycles the roof worked normally again.

    If the roof is currently closed, make sure the left and right kinematics inside the cabin and in the trunk are locked. That may not have been done if the roof was manually opened. Section E6.01 has a good explanation of the procedure. The workshop manual is essential for a California. Since you already have the DTCs logged, you might as well clear them out if you have not done so already.

    I doubt that the pump would burn out, given the amount of fail safes and time outs built into the operation. It is more likely to be a stuck sensor or something along those lines. But I do recall seeing a post at some point about a failed hydraulic cylinder, which the owner was able to source and replace.
     
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  4. wiscobadger

    wiscobadger Karting
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    Thanks for the reply @Minnesota! I went out to the car to check the rear glass locks. The passenger side seemed pretty solid, but when I worked the drivers side lock back and forth, it seemed like lock for the glass kinematics wasn't catching properly. I took a video to show how I can move the panel a bit, even when in "locked" position.

    youtube.com/shorts/6kBHKgfQARw

    I tried pushing down on the glass panel and working the manual lock but that didn't seem to make any difference. I could try unlocking both sides, lifting the glass and reseating it to see if that makes any difference?

    As I am learning, I am wondering how this lock possibly not latching properly would prevent the top from moving at all or throw the hydraulic pump codes.
     
  5. Minnesota

    Minnesota Rookie

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    I don't think there should be any play in the window when locked properly. But I am not sure not being locked properly would cause a failure to open. You might have to unlock both and lift the window up manually with a friend to see if the plastic parts in the sliding rail are damaged.

    Does the pump seem to do any work at all before stopping? Mine makes an audible buzzing noise when the pump is engaged. Have you tried to use the button to close the roof and complete the cycle first?

    As a next step, I would probably try to get the roof manually opened all the way (with a friend) just to rule out obvious mechanical issues or broken parts. Basically reverse the manual closing procedure.
     
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  6. Minnesota

    Minnesota Rookie

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    I am not sure what kind of scanner you have, but if you like to work on your own cars, it would probably make sense to invest in an X431 scan tool. Make sure you get one that specifically says it can work with Ferrari.

    I just checked mine, and the control module for the roof can stream 57 different data points.
     
  7. wiscobadger

    wiscobadger Karting
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    I've got an older Foxwell scanner with whatever Ferrari software was available for it at the time. The X431 looks great though. I may definitely pick one of those up.

    I think your suggestion of trying to manually move the top a bit more and see if there is anything obviously wrong is a good one.I will see if I can get someone to help me with that.

    When I press the top button, I get some window movement depending on what way I am pressing, followed by pretty immediate roof failure message. The "Complete Roof Cycle" message is always on. As soon as you enter the car without pressing the top button.
     
  8. Minnesota

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    Good luck and let us know how it goes.
     
  9. FrancisK

    FrancisK Formula 3
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    Is this the cars and bids silver one?
     
  10. wiscobadger

    wiscobadger Karting
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    @FrancisK - No, I purchased this White California from a dealer in PA.

    @Minnesota - I had a friend come over and try to lift the rear glass portion. The driver's side that isn't latching properly lifts without an issue, but the passenger side doesn't unlatch from the front roof panel. The back portion of the passenger side rear glass is free, but is still locked in to the front roof, so I can't left the rear glass section. Has anyone experienced this when attempting to manually move the rear glass portion of the top?

    I may be able to see what is inhibiting the passenger side from fully unocking if I pulled down that black stretchy headliner trim. Does anyone know how that headliner trim detaches? I can pull it enough to undo the locks by the back seat, but I'd like to pull it completely down so I can see whats happening on the side of the front roof panel.
     
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  11. Minnesota

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    I bet that is your issue. The lock is stuck/broken.

    The stretchy headliners have screws in a few places and also connect to cords that pull them tight when the roof is closed. The manual has a section about taking them off, but I think it assumes the roof is half open. You should be able to move it out of the way enough to see if the tabs on the plastic sliders are broken.

    Note that a new cord kit is $1,500, so be careful with them. They are just strings with a couple of plastic connectors and springs at the end. (One of the cords on my car had a jacked spring when I bought it, but I found a suitable replacement spring for $2 and avoided buying a new kit.)

    My understanding is that the sliding locking mechanisms are prone to failure. There are plastic parts in a metal rail which can break. There are after market kits which use metal parts on eBay. Good news is that you are probably looking at around $1,400 in parts if you replace both sides. Cheaper than a couple of Ferrari strings.
     
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  12. wiscobadger

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    Thanks for the tip on the headliner cords. I looked as much as I could but not sure I could see anything that looked broken or out of place, but I wasn't able to see much by pulling the headliner trim down where I could.

    I guess my question becomes how do I move the roof to replace the kinematics if the broken kinematics are keeping me from moving the roof, ha.
     
  13. Willl

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    If the top was manually closed, it should be able to be manually opened.
    Hope this video helps

     
  14. wiscobadger

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    Thanks @Willl! - I've watched this one a few times. That is me in the video comments asking the same question I am asking here : )) Still not sure why one side isn't unlatching properly or why the WSM doesn't show a section for manually opening the top (unless I am missing it somewhere).
     
  15. Willl

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    Have checked to make sure the back glass latches are unlocked before opening the top?

    Make sure to have the parcel cover in the trunk in the down position.
     
  16. wiscobadger

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    Hey @Willl - Yup, that is the issue I am currently facing. With both rear glass latches unlocked, the passenger side is not free from the front roof panel. The passenger side rear glass latch is free in the back, but not in the front near the front roof panel if that makes sense.
     
  17. Willl

    Willl Karting

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    You have to move the rear glass on top of the roof before the roof will release from the A pillar

    If your left side latch is loose on the A pillar while the rear glass is down, your problem may end up being on the left side
     
  18. wiscobadger

    wiscobadger Karting
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    Definitely seems like my latches aren't operating optimally. The problem is if I want to view or even replace them, I need to somehow get the passenger side to fully unlatch, so I can then move the rear glass over the front roof panel.

    The manual mechanism does not seem to be fully unlocking the latch on the passenger side.
     
  19. Willl

    Willl Karting

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    Take a look at the video at 6:24, match up the moving parts behind the headliner in the video with your moving or not moving parts behind the headliner.
     
  20. wiscobadger

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    Yeah, good suggestion. I have tried to watch how much those latches travel vs what I'm seeing on my car. And even side to side on the car. I'll see if I can take a closer comparison between the video and what I see in my California and assess if that uncovers anything more for me.

    I called my nearest dealer today, if I can't come up with any progress myself soon, I'll just let the pros do their thing.
     
  21. Willl

    Willl Karting

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    Keep us posted, good luck
     

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