Zymol Question

I did mine with a clay bar and the bar was almost as clean when I finished as it was when I started.
Either I did it wrong or my paintwork was incredibly clean

So what did I do wrong?

 

Forgot to take the wrapper off

 

You wasted your time - Stop with this clay bar nonsense , wash it, polish it and drive it.

 

Na just drive it then get DB to pop round when it's dirty.

 

if paint was clean then, clay would be clean after as well,,,,

use soapy water,, and rub it over the paint,,,, if bonner was clean would take you 2-3mins,, if it was dirty,,, 10mins,,,
scotie

 

I would think that it was pretty clean.I had the same feeling when I did the 348 but when I did the BM I could feel the roughness in the paintwork as I started the clay process,the difference after claying is incredible.

 

does the swissoil have this infamous clay bar?

 

You can use any brand clay bar.

 

yes

 

Think I'll have a go with the swissoily thing then,

 

Hi Chaps, to answer some of the questions on this thread .
If you have just recently Zymoled your car , there is no need to HD Cleanse it before applying another coat of wax , just wash it and leather it first.Both Zymol and swissol waxes are designed to be layered ( a bit like french polishing a table) so the more you get on you car , the better the finish becomes.
As Ric355 stated , you only have to HD again if you have left it 6 to 12 months between rewaxing. Oh and HD Cleanse isn't abrasive ,

As for using a degreaser or tar remover, those of you who have seen me at work will know that I use a degreaser before I wash and tar remover before I clay.
I only use these before I start the initial application. The degreaser is used to soften up any dirt/dust and remove any previous waxes etc.
I use the tar remover because if there is a lot on the car it can take bloody hours to remove it and it can contaminate the clay bar quickly , so I tend to use the tar remover first just to prolong the life of the clay bar and save time.
If you have a lot of tar on your car , I recommend you use the Auto glym tar remover as this dissolves it on contact, the other brands available are a complete waste of money and time.

I personally use a mixture of water and "clear auto bathe" when using the clay, this does the trick just as good as the clay lubes available, and a lot cheaper.
The clay bars , whichever brands you use , will lift out any surface contaminents in the paint , the ones that you dont see that dull the paintwork (and turn the clay bar brown). Basically smoother paintwork reflects light more , resulting in a better shine .
Clay bars are designed as an alternative to using the abrasive type waxes and compounds which not only remove the contaminents but also remove a layer of paint or laquer. So in the long run a clay bar's a better option.
Hope this helps

 

Do they demo these at the classic car show?

 

I would have thought so