Zinc coating for brake rotors...

Seems like the coating would eventually just wear off... wouldn't it?

(By the way, I know absolutely NOTHING about zinc coatings).

Mike

 

When you send the rotors out to have them Zinc plated, the first step for the plater is to clean them (normally in a soapy water bath, then rinse), followed by a chemical dip (not sure if it is acetone based) that preps the object for the actual electroplating. No need to send them somewhere in advance for corrosion removal unless the rotors are so bad that red rust has formed inside the vanes and metal is flaking off. If the rotor is that extreme, you will want to have them media blasted, but the braking surfaces need to be masked off prior to blasting.

Black Zinc is not as common as clear Zinc or gold Zinc in my experience. I believe the actual color is obtained in the last dip tank which is the chromate tank.

 

I replaced my discs about six months ago - all nice an shiny. Anyway three weeks later the non wearing surfaces started to rust up like the old ones I'd taken off. I got a couple of rattle cans of high temp black matt paint, masked off the wearing surfaces and give the rest of them a right good number of coats. Five months on, including 600 miles on track and the paint is holding up 100%.

Might be an easier/cheaper option.

 

Why?

Rotors are meant to have brake pads asserted with great force and in the consequence wear. Any surface you put on the otors will ONLY retard the abity of the rotors to retard the speed of the car.

 

I took care of this myself with some rust remover and high heat paint.
The whole job took about 2 hours for all four wheels and turned out great.
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Wow, that looks good Jeff! Looking forward to seeing your car on TV.

 

Great job. Another process I use is to wire brush the non contact surfaces to a nice shiny polished look and spray with a high temp clear coat. Especially two piece rotors with rivets- this process looks awesome too.

I hate dirty or corroded looking rotors and this is such an easy fix!

 

I DO NOT KNOW FOR A FACT.

However, smarter guys than I have reported to BE VERY CAREFUL with ANY plating process as most of the quick-n-easy and not so quick-n-easy plate processes used today can embrittle the plated part thus rendering things like brake calipers useless or at least suspect.

 

+1 on this.

I would not comtemplate plating brake discs/rotors. Theoretically you can plate & then de-embrittle by heating the parts for an hour or so in an oven, but i just wouldn't risk it with brake disks. Paint is the way to do it.

 

Chrome plated rotors are common place on motorcycles (and not just show bikes). So while I'm not an expert on rotors becoming brittle because of a plating process, it's obviously done in other road going applications.

I'f I were to do it, I'd go with the POR15 paints/process. I've had many good experiences with using their products.

 

Either they are using the correct TIME and MATERIAL CONSUMING process or .........



I'd like to belive they are using the right process as embrittelment is a well known situation in the serious side of the business.

So I have been told.

 

Had mine Gold Plated.
(CAD plated)


Edwardo
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Ooh, cad plating, urrrrll, drool drool....

 

Above post looks not good ^^^^^^

 

Yes, grease needs cleaned off.. but, they Are CAD plated inside the cooling vents also.

Let's see your rear rotors...?


Edwardo

 

One of the things Martin, (at Girodisc) suggested, while we were developing the big brakes for my 308, was to turn the old front rotors and have them zinc washed. They were new looking when i got them back, just like the new rear 360 discs.

The on edge shot shows the old disc and the turned, zinc washed used F-50 disc. The upside down disc is a new 330x24 360 rear disc on a custom hat.

The 4 disc shot is new/old.

The rotor working surface is quickly worn to the base metal, but the edges and vane interiors remain rust free.

I do not recall the cost for having it done, but if you are interested, i would suggest you contact Martin at Girodisc - great guy to work with.

HTH,
chris
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My guess is that rust scale inhibits the heat transfer and so, zinc plating/washing will help maintain maximum heat dissipation. Doesn't look too bad either

I recall from my air cooled days that a black body, (thin finish) is more efficient than polished or silver colored. I forgot how much, but it was significant, so, if there is a black zinc, or a durable thin high heat paint that can be applied to the interior of the rotor, that would be the best possible heat transfer.

?
chris