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Wheel centerlock removal solution?

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Marty, Jan 13, 2010.

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  1. Marty

    Marty Karting

    Nov 21, 2003
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    Martin Stark
    #1 Marty, Jan 13, 2010
    I just bought a used Wright 2000 ft. lb. output torque multiplier. Does anyone have experience with one of these? I never used one before, but assuming the socket's female part doesn't shear off I should be able to remove a way tight and very stubborn left front centerlock from the TR. When my local F-dealer tried to remove it using a smaller torque multiplier he sheared its output drive square clean off.

    It's this model: http://www.ohiopowertool.com/p-1607-2000-ft-lbs-torque-multiplier-9s292.aspx
     
  2. LightGuy

    LightGuy Four Time F1 World Champ
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    #2 LightGuy, Jan 13, 2010
    Wow !
    I'm assuming you've done the usual tricks with knocker-loose penetrant and heat.
    Another trick we would use on stubborn fasteners is vibration or shock.
    Thats how I broke the seize on an NSX engine crankshaft balancer bolt with the help of a friend.
    Have someone tap the socket/cheater bar with a hammer while applying force.
    For me it was that and a 6' pipe on the handle of a 3/4" drive bar and all of my not-so-frail self bouncing at the other end.
     
  3. ManCar

    ManCar Karting

    May 6, 2009
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    Down South
    #3 ManCar, Jan 13, 2010
    I tried everything LightGuy did and mine never budged. Even had an 18 wheeler service truck stop by the house and give it all they had and they got three. What finally broke the last one was a bottle of Nitrogen and a race gun. In the end we needed the PSI turned up past 350 and finally it broke free.
     
  4. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #4 Rifledriver, Jan 13, 2010
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2010
    Breaking torque multipliers is a common scenario on those. I have been taking those off since 85, I have experience in every way imaginable and there is only one good way and it happens to be the cheapest. Use a cheater bar about 6 feet long. It works every time and I don't work up a sweat and we don't beat up the chrome.
     
  5. AceMaster

    AceMaster Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #5 AceMaster, Jan 13, 2010
    Is this also known as a breaker bar? (And aka Johnson bar)
     
  6. Marty

    Marty Karting

    Nov 21, 2003
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    Martin Stark
    #6 Marty, Jan 14, 2010
    I tried a heavy 6' long barbells bar shackled to a 3/4" breaker bar and the centerlock didn't budge. Maybe whacking the breaker bar too would have done it, but there were only two of us.

    This Wright multiplier looks like it can wrench an earth mover. But I won't have a 1" to 3/4" adapter until next Friday. I'll use the 6-footer on the input end to crank in the multiplier's maximum for 2000 ft. lbs. out. Am I correct in assuming that the torque on the multiplier's reaction bar is roughly equal to the input torque not the output torque?
     
  7. JAYF

    JAYF Formula 3

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    #7 JAYF, Jan 14, 2010

    Are you really going to spend $850.00 on a tool to remove your wheels?
     
  8. LightGuy

    LightGuy Four Time F1 World Champ
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    #8 LightGuy, Jan 14, 2010
    Breaker bar handle with a pipe extension.
    Pipe slips over the bar handle.
    20 bucks.
    Do NOT use a Chinese breaker bar.
    Snap-On or MAC quality need only apply.
    Same with the socket.
     
  9. Marty

    Marty Karting

    Nov 21, 2003
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    #9 Marty, Jan 15, 2010
    No, I bought the 2000 ft. lb. Wright for $155. on eBay. Gotta love eBay.
     
  10. JAYF

    JAYF Formula 3

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    #10 JAYF, Jan 15, 2010

    Wow, That was some great savings over list-even for a used one. Curious to know how well it works.
     
  11. AceMaster

    AceMaster Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #11 AceMaster, Jan 15, 2010
    I see...thanks for the explanation
     
  12. Marty

    Marty Karting

    Nov 21, 2003
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    Martin Stark
    #12 Marty, Jan 15, 2010
    Stayed tuned. I will have a 1" to 3/4" impact reducing adapter (to mate the Wright to the centerlock socket) a week from today. I'll report how it works.
     
  13. Philwozza

    Philwozza Formula 3

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    #13 Philwozza, Jan 16, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  14. Marty

    Marty Karting

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    #14 Marty, Jul 21, 2010
    Finally got to try the 2000 ft-lb torque multiplier cranked with a 6' long breaker bar and the only thing that broke free was the 3/4" end of the 1" to 3/4" socket adapter. We then tried a 3/4" air wrench with a 1/2" hose supplying air at 150 psi and that didn't work either. My next thought is to find a truck repair shop that has a larger air wrench and strong socket adapter.
     
  15. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

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    #15 jselevan, Jul 21, 2010
    Perhaps someone in the past reversed splines and you are tightening instead of loosening????

    Jim S.
     
  16. Philwozza

    Philwozza Formula 3

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    #16 Philwozza, Jul 21, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I have updated my wheel removing tool since reporting in an earlier thread but still require a "Joe" :(

    To tighten the wheels I use a big torque wrench as shown in the photo below. I also invested in a Hill engineering special octagonal socket shown in the second photo.

    Unfortunately I still have to use my seven foot scaffolding pole with both Joe on the end to remove some of the wheel bolts.

    My last modification that Joe is engineering as we speak, is to add a 3/4 drive to the long scaffold pole so we can use both Joe and my impact wrench concurrently.

    Weight and shock together :)......

    Is that a little like one of your Army Generals "Shock and Awe"? I think its becoming that for my car. :D

    P
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  17. davehelms

    davehelms F1 Rookie

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    #17 davehelms, Jul 23, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  18. cmparrenzo

    cmparrenzo F1 Rookie

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    #18 cmparrenzo, Jul 23, 2010
    Trust me, this one works....
     
  19. Philwozza

    Philwozza Formula 3

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    #19 Philwozza, Jul 23, 2010
    Dave, what do you do to tighten the nuts?

    P
     
  20. davehelms

    davehelms F1 Rookie

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    #20 davehelms, Jul 23, 2010
    Snapon 3/4 drive dial torque wrench, a light drive up and back down the street with very light breaking and then a retorque.

    The impact was required for Group C and CanAm center lock nuts that saw insane breaking forces
     
  21. Marty

    Marty Karting

    Nov 21, 2003
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    #21 Marty, Aug 5, 2010
    At last we were able to remove the stuck centerlock using a 1" air wrench at 150psi. We were about to give up, but it broke free on the 6th attempt. I bought a replacement centerlock and this time I torqued it to 350 ft-lbs. rather than tighter.
     
  22. Philwozza

    Philwozza Formula 3

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    #22 Philwozza, Aug 5, 2010
    Mary, I believe the correct setting is 325 ft/lbs.

    Phil
     
  23. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
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    #23 bpu699, Aug 5, 2010
    Went to a garage sale last week... Old retired factory worker who fixed conveyor belts was clearing out his "tools..."

    I bought everything for $300...

    Some of the cool stuff included were

    1) Ingersoll Rand 1 inch impact hammer...this thing is HUGE... 1500ft/lbs torque :)
    2) Ingersoll Rand 3/4 inch Impact Hammer
    3) Other assorted 1 inch impact Hammers...
    4) 2 and 3 inch socket sets...and wrenches the size of my thigh :)...

    Next time I neet to take the wheels of my Testarossa... I am prepared :)...

    I looked at the grainger catalog... a 1 inch impact hammer is about $1500-2000...

    That was a great find :) :) :)
     
  24. Marty

    Marty Karting

    Nov 21, 2003
    108
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    Martin Stark
    #24 Marty, Aug 5, 2010
    The only issue is that if you have to resort to an impact wrench you can kiss the chrome goodbye.
     
  25. Philwozza

    Philwozza Formula 3

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    #25 Philwozza, Aug 6, 2010
    I hav found that using the Hill engineering socket with workshop tissue over the nut head eliminates any damage to the nut even when using an impact wrench.

    P
     
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