Wheel bolts to studs conversion

One thing you might need to consider is that the holes in your brake discs might need to be enlarged to use some of them. On my TR, the holes in the brake discs are only about 14.5~14.6 mm diameter so only the studs in your last link look like they could be used without modifying the brake disc (at least on my TR). It surprises me how none of these stud suppliers seem to give the diameter of the larger bulge, or larger unthreaded diameter, between the two threaded areas. I don't know the size of the holes in the 458 nor 488 brake discs, but you might want to check this before deciding which to use as you need some (small) clearance at the brake disc holes to the studs (and I wouldn't want to modify my stock brake discs -- JMO).

 

Talking about the diameter (and shape) of the clearance hole for the stud in the brake disc. Some brake discs might have a counterbore on the backside, but, for example, the stud in the first link could not be used on a TR that has just a simple thru hole in the brake disc because of the larger (unthreaded) diameter portion between the threads that go into the hub and the threads where the lugnut goes.

The stud in the last link is the only one that doesn't have any feature that is much larger than the thread size.

 

You want to be careful of which thread class you use and double check that your lug nuts actually go onto the studs okay. On my Toyota, I installed ARP wheel studs and then used some Titanium lug nuts as well as some SS locking nuts. In one case, I found that the tolerance differences between the stud threads vs. the nut threads was just enough to produce a basically interference fit (which prevented the nuts from threading on). So anytime you start changing things around, make sure to check that before ordering 20 of something

Ray

 

Yes go studs for a track car. I like the shape of the MSI stud if it fits the brake disc holes. I'm not radiusing brake discs every disc change. I like the more positive seating land of the MSI because the others that touch at a tangent point prone to come loose. I have seen near disasters because crew failed to notice the stud coming out, 2 threads left in and then wheel goes on then 100ft lbs on 2 threads! Locktite the studs in and use a proper stud placement and retrieval tools. Double nutting is ghetto. The MSI ones do not spec the class. I want 10.9 class steel studs not TI like the last ones. I'm OK with Ti nuts but not studs. We are not racing at that level. I'll go with the steel robustness. Galling can be an issue that increases with Ti that can cold weld a nut to a stud. If you ever have that and later have to take the wheel off and cut the stud you are not having fun. If you get the studs with the hex head installation feature skip using that and use a proper tool to install the stud to torque. That little hex feature is a recipe for loosening studs. The note on the Ti studs to use anti seize is a red flag. No anti-seize on wheels. Several reasons one is of the factory spec is 90ftlbs you have no idea what the new torque spec should be with a lubricated nut and stud.

 

There ain't no party like a stainless-to-stainless micro friction welding itself together forever party... I'll tell ya that much.

Ray

 

As a side work - are you also considering replacing the bolts by studs to attach the brake calipers?
Since every pad change implies removing the caliper, and the OEM arrangement is to have a steel bolt into an aluminium hub carrier, going for studs would protect from the unavoidable thread damage that happens after a while.