355 - What Triggers the Battery Light on the Dash? | FerrariChat

355 What Triggers the Battery Light on the Dash?

Discussion in '348/355' started by WATSON, Sep 18, 2024.

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  1. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Sep 9, 2010
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    1998 355 F1. My battery light started flickering a month or so ago.

    Sometimes very faintly lit for long periods. Other times it would be bright then softly flicker then go out. Other times completely out for full drives.

    At one moment, with the battery light flickering at idle, I checked voltage and had 13.8.

    Last week the battery light was not on at all and the battery died. I charged it up and checked voltage once the car was running and I had nothing but the battery voltage of 11.8.

    Couple of things I want to check, but first....what causes the battery light to turn on?
     
  2. carnutdallas

    carnutdallas Formula 3
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    Alternator going bad - but, check all grounds and cables to the alternator. Voltage regulator could be going bad. Several threads on here with regards to 355/348 alternators.


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  3. bobzdar

    bobzdar F1 Veteran

    Sep 22, 2008
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    No idea - it doesn't seem to do anything on mine. I had a bad voltage regulator and the light never lit up, but pretty much every other light on the dash started to before the car died. When I turn the key on before starting it lights up so the bulb isn't bad but it appears to be completely useless.
     
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  4. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Exactly the same here. I start the car and the battery light, among others, is lit.

    When car died, the F1 indicator went blank, but the idiot light were all on. Oddly, not the battery light.

    Hence my question.
     
  5. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Alternator plug wiring seems to be a weak spot on these cars. Do wiring checks between the connector behind the left rear strut and the alternator. Also check the small sense wire on the battery.

    Does your battery light still come on at start?
     
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  6. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    The question really is, what triggers the battery light to illuminate while the car is running?

    As to your questions, Because of your posts in other threads and your diagrams, I was able to do some things that I think fixed the issue. Thanks for that.

    Earlier I thought is was a lose sense wire at the positive terminal. Cut that off and put a terminal on it and attached at battery bolt. In the end, no change.
    I pulled the alternator and had it tested and came back healthy. Same for the battery that is 2 years old.
    I tested the sense wire and it ohm'd out just fine between the battery and the alternator plug.
    Then I cleaned up the yellow "ignition" wire and Yellow/Green "light" wire at the alternator plug.
    Then I went into the connector block in the back and cleaned the male terminals and tightened up the female terminals.
    After connecting I used a pin to pop through the wire casing to test connectivity post terminals and they both ohm'd out fine.
    Then I pulled relays E12 and E2 and tested them as well as cleaning up the spade connectors.
    Tighten up the connector fingers as best I could on the fuse block.

    Put it all back together and I get the battery light when I go to start it.
    The battery light goes out once engine starts and 14.4 volts once running.
    I need to drive it for awhile to make sure it's OK, but looks promising

    My real question remains, what triggers the battery light while driving the car? It seems damn near random.

    BTW, the "ignition" - Yellow and "light" - Yellow/Green are reversed on my car compared with round plug diagram in your document (Fig11a_1997_5.2_Injection_system_ignition_F1). I have a 1998 F1 car.
     
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  7. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Do you mean that the yellow wire is not attached to the alternator plug "IG" terminal and the yellow/green is not attached to the L terminal? Or is it just a plug orientation issue... In most of my diagrams, I draw the plug graphic looking at the contact side (pin/socket) side of the plug, not the rear of the plug where the wires are.

    My latest diagram (5.2 F1) with the internal instrument panel wiring resolved:

    https://www.dropbox.com/t/EhcNheViG4RaWxlg

    In this case, I believe I drew the graphic of the harness connector (as viewed from the contact side). The wire positions/colours in the graphic are like an X-ray view.
     
  8. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Did you also clean and inspect the wiring/pins on the plug behind the left hand rear strut?

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    Generally they are good because the plug has a rubber cap to prevent water ingress. Don't confuse it with the identical plug next to it on the F1 as it will melt wiring if you get them mixed up.

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    For info: The battery warning light is essentially an imbalance light. If the voltage on one side of the light is the same as the other, the light extinguishes as there is no "potential difference". It's only when the battery or alternator is not operating normally that an imbalance/difference is created. This can make diagnosis a little more difficult as you don't know which component is faulty. Anyway, it's usually resolved by monitoring the voltages.
     
  9. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Yes, as noted I cleaned up the connections in the referenced connection block.

    I think, and I may be full of **** here, that the "ignition" wire was not connecting and the alternator would not 'engage'. As a result it didn't charge the battery. Does that make sense?

    This is interesting.
     
  10. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    That makes sense then.
     
  11. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Yep. I assume that key power (on the yellow wire) is essential to voltage regulation, so improper charging.

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    I show the plugs this way as it is often not possible to see the wires on the back of some of the 355's plugs.
     
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  12. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #12 WATSON, Sep 25, 2024
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2024
    In the end, you seem to be correct.

    When cold, the alternator charge was 14.4+. Once warm it fluctuated all over the place. 12.2 - 14.4.

    So rebuild time. I took a chance.... $47....(gulp) https://www.ebay.com/itm/275543738079

    Showed up and....
    Transpo Regulator
    Regitar Rectifier RN-10 which has the 8mm stud.
    New brushes.

    Rebuilt it this afternoon. You can do it without removing the alternator.....who knew?

    One hour of driving and it seems pretty good.

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    Back side of voltage regulator:
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    Started right up and landed here at idle:
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