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What did you do to your 365 GT4 2+2/400/412 today?

Discussion in '365 GT4 2+2/400/412' started by OttoB, May 29, 2015.

  1. raemin

    raemin Formula Junior

    Jan 16, 2007
    391
    Lyon (FR)
    Full Name:
    R. Emin
    It's only on the second blower that I understood how to disassemble the unit without removing the squirrel cage (which is a real pain). During the previous bodywork they used tons of black protective paint, the blowers were heavy coated. I had to let the part soak overnight in break fluid in order to soften that mess.

    As the spray gun was out I also painted the horn pipes. As I am locked in the house I am short of supply so just took whichever paint I had but I like it better than the factory blueish metallic red.

     
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  2. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
    Professional Ferrari Technician Owner Consultant

    Dec 26, 2001
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    Newman
    Haven't yet but going to. I have this 81 Boxer / 308 wheel Im going to replace the stock 400 wheel with. We'll see how much it changes steering effort but I suspect not much considering its not that much smaller than the original. I just prefer the look of the smaller one, the 400 wheel can go on the wall in my office.

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  3. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
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    Jun 8, 2004
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  4. raemin

    raemin Formula Junior

    Jan 16, 2007
    391
    Lyon (FR)
    Full Name:
    R. Emin
    Just fixing the wiper timer. See (and ear) the spark at 2'. Two much sparks on this old relay causes some hysteresis and the wiper would not work under load.



    The regular (metal casing) Bosch relays are easy to disassemble, this one is more tricky. Once the case is removed, cleaning the contacts is quite easy.
     
  5. Ak Jim

    Ak Jim F1 Rookie
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    Dec 23, 2007
    4,792
    North Pole AK
    Image Unavailable, Please Login Removed the column switch and sent it off to

    http://www.unobtaniumsupply.com

    For a rebuild. It was working ok except the headlights sometimes worked and sometimes didn't work. Looking at the switch I think I probably could have fixed it myself but figured it would be best to have someone who had done the job multiple times do the job.
     
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  6. raemin

    raemin Formula Junior

    Jan 16, 2007
    391
    Lyon (FR)
    Full Name:
    R. Emin
    I've also contacted Verell who is rally helpfull. I am wondering how to tackle with the steering nut without the proper spanner (no access to my mechanic till may 11th...). Anyone managed to remove the wheel without the RNT-38 ring nut tool ?
     
  7. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    Dec 26, 2001
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    In a pinch years ago I used two pairs of needle nose vise-grips. One to get into two of the slots and the other to grip the pliers that were holding the nut so I had leverage to turn it. It worked and didn't mark the nut.
     
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  8. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
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    Jun 8, 2004
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    Good day Raemin,

    As I was awaiting the proper tools, I made a quick and dirty ring nut tool so I could continue my progress. Here I bought an inexpensive (less than $5) 30mm socket and spent about 10 minutes with my die-grinder to expose four pins that would mate to the ring nut (see picture). It is not pretty, but did allow me to remove the steering wheel .. and it did not damage the ring nut.

    Cheers,

    Sam

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  9. Ak Jim

    Ak Jim F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed Owner

    Dec 23, 2007
    4,792
    North Pole AK
    At some point someone used a poor substitute on the special nut. It is all hacked up as a result. I had to use a hammer to seet the special socket on to the nut. Also the inside part of the steering wheel is also messed up. I'd strongly advise you wait for the proper tool or at least make one like the above picture.
     
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  10. raemin

    raemin Formula Junior

    Jan 16, 2007
    391
    Lyon (FR)
    Full Name:
    R. Emin
    Thanks guys. I've tried to play with the needle nose pliers to no avail, so will hit the bullet and give superformance a try. £49 seems a reasonable deal (as long as they can ship...).
     
  11. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    Dec 26, 2001
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    Did the steering wheel swap this morning then ran my work related errands in it. The smaller wheel gives more feedback in a good way, I like it and low speed effort doesn't feel different to me. Also more room for my legs. Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  12. Tojo

    Tojo Formula Junior

    Apr 12, 2002
    357
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Tim
    Today, among other interior trims, I had my dash covered by Jim K. He's done an unreal job and I'm extremely happy with how it's come out! It's certainly not 5 minutes work to do. Massive thanks to Jim for his hard work and time spent doing it. Now I just need to get things in order so it can be installed. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Sent from my SM-G935F using FerrariChat.com mobile app
     
  13. raemin

    raemin Formula Junior

    Jan 16, 2007
    391
    Lyon (FR)
    Full Name:
    R. Emin
    Well not exactly "done on my 400i today", but at least my wiring diagram is now planed and documented...

    I cannot display the full diagram, as my project is based on P. Bennet diagram (which is not free), but here are my own planned modifications (highlighted in purple).

    Upgraded fuse & relay box

    I've order two 16 blade fuseboxes from UK; expensive given what this is, but these are the only boxes that fit properly in the glovebox.

    Low beam and fogs are operated through relays. I am also installing an auxiliary cooling pump (third relay). There are 4 unused relay holder in my car (3 for dual AC which I do not have, one for start valve time, which was removed on the later 400i gen1), that's were I am planing to install these 3 new ones.

    Last, the clock and the mirror do have their own fuse now, which allows me 1) to disconnect the battery without disconnecting the clock, and 2) get rid of the stupid mirror fuse that is buried under the centre console!


    Switch Pitch module
    Here is the only reason I really have to update the diagram, my new gearbox relies on an additional solenoid that is controlled by a module that captures the brake signal, kick-down and engine manifold vacuum. I'd prefer to record the modification for future maintenance.

     
  14. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
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    Jun 8, 2004
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    Good day Raemin,

    Please post some pics when you are done.

    I am going to create a modern fuse block replacement for my 365 similar to what I did on my BB. However, the original 365/400 fuse blocks assembly is a bit more difficult to create a modern fuse replacement that maintains the original fuse block covers. The reason is because of how the wiring is connected to the fuse block ( rear terminals) and that the fuse face is sloped. Both can be addressed, but it is not overly straightforward and so I suspect the final solution will be a bit iterative.

    Anyway, it will be interesting to see what you come up with.

    Cheers,

    Sam

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  15. raemin

    raemin Formula Junior

    Jan 16, 2007
    391
    Lyon (FR)
    Full Name:
    R. Emin
    Came to the same conclusion,
    1) torpedo fuses do require more complex terminals than blade terminals, keeping these makes your project more complex.
    2) the down facing connectors are another issue.

    So will get rid of the rear connectors and will use "blade fuses". I've bought a "fuse bloc" with loose terminals (could not find a torpedo bloc with loose connectors), and will crimp the wires directly on the fuse-bloc. That's a lot of work, but there is no other way to cram so many fuses in this tight space.

    Obviously I cannot re-use the stock cover, but my car does not have its original fuse-blocs. For the sake of originality you could contemplate a 3D printed plastic bloc with provisions for blade fuse terminals. Then use this prototype to build a silicon mould and cast your own blocs as Verrel does.
     
  16. bjwhite

    bjwhite F1 Rookie
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    Mar 17, 2006
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    Started it, let it come up to operating temperature. Drove it up the block and back. Tested lights and turn signals and the like.

    Still stalled on my exhaust install. Five years this month is when I removed the old one. Unacceptable actually, ugh. It's been a busy five years though.

    Now I've recommitted to finally getting what I need and reassembling it. Watching the auction on BaT for 42185 inspired me to get off my ass.

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  17. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
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    Jun 8, 2004
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    Good day Raemin,

    Understood. What I am thinking of doing is what I did on the 308/Boxer fuses blocks where I use a printed circuit board for the electrical items and a milled base with features to allow for the original cover retention. 3D printing a design and then molding of bases is possible, but unless one needs to make a lot of these I find it easier to CNC mill out the base. Even so the original Covers are somewhat shallow and so there will be some design efforts needed in order to allow the original covers to be used with the blade/ATC fuses. I could go fully electronic and design my own electronic breakers... and then one would never have to replace a fuse ever again. Although this sounds like a great idea, the reality is electronics have other issues and so although I typically like to use high tech solutions, I also balance these urges with keeping things as simple as possible (the "KISS" principle). In fact I think it was Einstein who said "“Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler.” ... and I agree.

    Cheers,

    Sam

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  18. raemin

    raemin Formula Junior

    Jan 16, 2007
    391
    Lyon (FR)
    Full Name:
    R. Emin
    #168 raemin, Apr 27, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2020
    These do look really nice and would indeed look good in our cars as long as you solve the Down facing issue (otherwise the wiring harness would be clutter the glovebox). The most simple adjustment I could think of would be to design the box with "solder posts". You could then provide the box either bare (for the few of us that would rather directly solder the harness) or with loose wires properly colour coded and terminated with male 6.3mm connectors (plug and play).

    Room for additional fuses would be a plus...
     
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