Weeping oil cooler line...

The actual hose Ferrari uses is really cheap stuff so I am not surprised. We NEVER buy Ferrari hoses. As for the price all Ferrari hose is very expensive even if it is just straight pieces of water hose. It is one area that I am really convinced there is some corruption going on at the procurement level.


I bet if you find a shop that is going to reuse your fittings you can get the price below that 250 you were quoted. We go to an FAA certified hose shop and get them done for less than that.

Pull the cooler and do them both.

 

my lower oil line rubbed through on the chassis, I went to a hydraulic hose supplier/ fitter and replaced the line with what looks exactly the same as what came off, and using my same ends refitted to the new hose came out to $60, when the top one needs doing I will be going back to the same shop

 

there are places FAA / aircraft related that can clean the oil cooler also while it is off. highly recommend it, and there is all sorts of crap in there after 20+ years. ask the guys repairing the hoses for you.

 

Agree with the guys above, use aircraft shop and hydraulic shop for this stuff. Ferrari parts prices are ridiculous.

A great catalog is Aircraft Spruce.

 

After a successful replacement of the cam drive seals over the last few weeks I took my GT4 out today for the first test drive and noticed now my lower oil cooler hose is leaking too!

Superformance list GT4 hoses at around £100 each, but I don't see any GTB/S/328 hoses listed, although they do show the cooler itself - might be worth giving them a call.

Any tips on undoing the nuts on the oil cooler without breaking it ?

Lee

 

Be careful about the hose you get because there were some of these replacement hoses that had the banjo fitting that was thinner than the original such that your bolt would bottom out before you could tighten it to seal the banjo surfaces. There is a shorter and longer bolt for the banjo fitting. Superformance didn't believe me until I called them and one of the tech's looked at a couple different banjo bolts. He learned something that day. So if you are getting a hose from Superformance measure your bolt and call them and ask them which bolt that banjo fitting is for. Perhaps they now have thick washers to make up the difference. I had copper washers custom made.

Best bet is what Rifledriver suggests. If you can get it rebuilt with the original fittings go that route.

 

I've installed a Superformance lower hose and I'm not too impressed for the money. The swage fittings are longer than the original pipe which is ok for the top hose but means that the lower one cannot bend early causing it to push up against the bell housing. I'm sure it will function ok for now, but I think I'll have to have words with Superformance as the banjo was also the 22mm type as mentioned above. For £100 I would expect a better thought out and tested part so I'll report on my discussions with them on Monday. There is a hydraulic hose shop near me so I'll see what they can do and look at using a 90 degree elbow on the cooler gland. To compensate for the thinner banjo I machined up a special 3mm think copper washer and used the two originals on one side as per the picture.
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The original gland nut was tough and I didn't want to break the cooler so I cut the nut off by carefully sawing down it until the threads were just visible. Did this in two places and the "free" section just tapped off releasing the nut pressure.
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I experienced the exact same exercise. The pix shows the final ~65psi proof test I did. The aerospace quality hose was approx $20 or less / ft, but I spent about 80 to get the parts re-plated.
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Besides the hoses, I've never met a banjo fitting I liked... They are just prone to leaking and loosening. Following in the footsteps of others, I'm just converting everything to AN. Total cost for complete conversion is less than $200 for parts plus a little of my own labor. That includes the 2 short pieces of -10 hose (earls prolite 350), 4 black (ano tuff) hose ends, 2 90degree 22mm to -10 elbows and 2 weld on -10 bungs. Now it will all be -10 AN. Top quality hose, cheap to replace and no leaks.

Rick
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How odd this thread re-surfaces today.

Sunday I noticed my lower hose was weeping. I happened to have an extra set of hoses I bought off e-bay a couple years ago - but they happened to be too short for my QV. But I figured I'd salvage the fittings.

I took those hoses to a massive hydraulic hose shop here in NNJ. Their expert didn't look too happy. He thought he'd have to cut the hose collars & reweld them onto new hose. He warned me they wouldn't be pretty.

I'm out to find another shop to get a second opinion today.


Somewhere somebody in the archives posted that they found the same fittings up in Canada. I was about to search for the post & order the new fittings.
Anybody have that link? Search is your friend, it's just not very hospitable.

And if somebody has the names of shops that they have used in the past (and can testify to their outstanding work) I'd be happy to send my hoses their rather than risk a Rube Goldberg.

 

Most of the problem with the lower line is the fittings are quite close together and yet way out of line. This forces the hose to have a sharp S curve in it.

Like you guys said go to a hydraulics shop and have a hose made up ....... the only thing is stock fittings are still limited in how well the hose can be aligned ( taking into account engines move slightly and you dont want a taught hose pulling and reefing on engine or cooler )

...............soooooooooooooooooo the answer is make a 15 degree offset banjo joint .

Allow enough hose ( about 6.25 inches ) to put a nice arc in the line + 90 degree stock fitting + a 15 degree banjo and it works well.

The original line does have reusable fittings btw ......... if anyone wants photos I will get them on here ............ when you see how a proper 1500psi line is constructed compared to the original you'll probably not use the Ferrari bit again.
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Please do post the shots.

 

Don't do what I initially did. I cut off re-useable parts. It took a long time to find the bits, and after finding them, I realized it wouldn't have been too hard to do it right the first time. I'd start with aircraft repair stations.

 

That somebody was more than likely me, as I'm Canadian and searched extensively for those "elusive" banjos. Sourced them through an outside contractor who built hoses for some of the industrial machinery (aircraft refuelers) we were building at the time (circa late 2000/early 2001). He got the banjos from:

Les Produits Hydrauliques R.G. Ltee
3409 Boul. Industriel
Laval, Quebec, Canada
H7L 4S3
Tel.: 514-382-4080

Part #20910-1022 (banjos ?)
Part #80870-22 (hose sleeve ?)
Part #20078 DIN Light Series (threaded ends)

The only unfortunate part is that this hose builder was not familiar with these ends and over-crimped the sleeve for the banjos and they eventually leaked after a couple of years. Frustrated, I went with AN adaptors (like in Rick's photos) and use field-rebuildable hose ends, so that I can make them myself. If you order from the above company, find out the correct sleeve for the hose you're using and what crimping spec is called for (machine, dies and clamping force).

Left photo: original wire-braided hose and replacement hose. You can see the multiple hits he took on the banjo sleeve, which I suspect is not the correct type for that fitting and hose.
Right photo: current AN hose set-up.
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I believe it was you, Peter, as I recall mention of issues after the rebuild.
Might I suggest you publish your source/part #s in the x-reference thread.

Thanks very much everyone!

 

replaced both oil-cooler lines on my 308QV last year. The lower one was weeping through the braided hose, the upper at the banjo fitting near the filter.
Paid about $200 for a OEM upper hose, and for the lower about $10 for 1' of size 12 (I think!) hose from Pegasus, re-using the stock ends (doesn't flex quite as much as OEM, but with some careful fiddling makes the correct s-bend). Both are leak free after about 1000 miles.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3270

 

............. and after claiming a bad case of alzheimers I Am posting the photos !

The first one is the line disassembled , I had to use a grinder to undo the collar which retained the hose.

Next is the original banjo joint , , yes its reusable provided the collar undoes easily.
My problem with it is there is not a lot of hose actually being retained ....... my proof is the next photo with a new crimp "shell" as the hydraulics shop called it compared to the original Ferrari collar.
Not all of the Ferrari collar actually holds the hose in place , , there is about half of its length dedicated to it's thread holding the banjo joint.
In Australia we call the "bugger all" .......... and thats why I guess they leak.
Admittedly my custom banjo isnt full length but it does have about triple the grip area compared to an original.

The last shot is of the old hose , , it's quite thin walled and the stainless is pretty much aesthetic.
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Although the parts I posted in #13 of this thread looked like they would work, I wasn't happy with the 90 degree fitting I installed in the block. there was no way given the length to get the hose from cooler to the block without either a nasty kink or turning the fitting at the block up and then you have back to back 90s (not good for flow). I converted the 90 at the block to a straight (Tompkins 7400-10-22) and reclocked the hose fitting. The upper hose gets built with two -10 straight fittings and the lower uses two -10 90degree fittings - Much cleaner.
The hose is Earl's Prolite 350 so it has that stock woven look but with modern fittings. So it looks like it should be there but no more banjo fittings!

Rick
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Not sure where one finds the hydraulic places that can do this. When one of the lines on my oil cooler started leaking, I took it to a hydraulic place near me and they said "Nope, can't make one of those." I bought a replacement from Ricambi. Not sure why but it was not that bad, maybe $200. For a Mondial, not a 308.

 

Same here. I did not try everyone of the shops, but the 2 I took it to on the Peninsula and in San Jose said no. I am not moving back to Seattle for this ...